jbooker82

Yea you can do that. but it is hard to tell that way. Try telling the difference between 4.10, 4.30, 4.56, 4.88. For example 4.56. 1 turn of the tire = 4.56 turns of the drive shaft. Going to be hard to tell the difference between those ratios. The best way is to count the ring teeth then count the pinion teeth. Divied the # of ring teeth by the # of pinion teeth. = your axle ratio.

Yes on those metal caps there should be a little rubber ring. That keeps the dirt out and the grease in. The metal caps are pretty much like the ones on the swing arm piviot bolt. Pivot works sells a kit that gets rid of the bronz bushings in the linkage and replacese them with roller berrings. That kit should aslo come with the new dust seals.

I got a RS200w stator it works ok. I am not knocking what your saying about them being junk. That is totaly believable. I just hope mine holds out. Sounds like if you get a good RS Stator you better keep a hold of it because you might not be able to get a good one. josh

I will deffinatly keep my stock cap in the truck when I go riding. Until at least I get some confidance in my repair. That way it can go to crap after I fully trust that I fixed it. That seems to be how it works. josh

Well I got my gas cap today. I see what you mean. That rubber O ring only really holds the clear window in. The groove needs to be up a little more so the o ring holds the window in tighter. I just used a little black gasket maker to seal it up. Just put a little on the lip on the top of the window and put it back together. Hopfully that should take care of it.

My sleeves start at 66mm and end at 68mm. When you look at the transfers from the bottom there is still some aluminum on the outside of the sleeve. I dont know. I just figued resleeving costs the same for stock 64mm as 66mm so why not. :thumbsup:

If your jugs are ported now then I would just run the cut domes and not try to alter the ports. I would say it is better to have the port timing on the concervitave side. Rather than go over the edge with the plate.

There really does need to be a Banshee Anonymous support group.

That is why I resleeved mine with big bore sleeves. They needed sleeved anyway so i thought Why Not.

I dont get where people say that Big Bore Sleeves make the transfer ports smaller. I am looking at my cylinders that I just got back from Patriot Racing. They were resleeved for 66mm to 68mm final bore. When I am looking in to the transfers from the bottom There is still aluminum on the out side of the Big Bore Sleeve. So how does the transfer port get smaller when there is still aluminum?

You put that 2mm plate under the cylinders your going to advance all the port timings by 2mm's. I would just run a cut head instead.

One of those things where your friends wont ever let you forget. :biggrin:

Ok i will do that. I usually have plenty of acetone on hand. I use that for cleaning my pipes. Wet a rag down and do that for the final wipe down. Best way to get finger print free shiny chrome, because you dont even have any oil left on your fingers to leave prints. :biggrin:

Alright thanks. I will probably just go ahead and do that before I even put it on. That way it is clean and oil free. So this is the stuff. Do you think it will turn yellow after being exposed to fuel? Permitex 5 min General Purpose Epoxy LINK Thanks again it is much apprecated for all of your help. josh

I would apprecat it if you could get me the number of the product that you used. It was a clear epoxy? never seen that suff before. Thanks again firehead. :thumbsup:

try taking a c clamp and running it against the pads. That way you push the piston back in to the caliper housing.

jeff at FAST sells them for 400 new. I a used one from him. Looks almost new pluse it had extra weld, and max load berrings on both sides for $350.

I used jb weld on a cracked carb bowl. put a little on the inside to get by until i got a new one. The gas eventually deterioated the jb weld. made it soft and flexable. Wonder if yamah bond would work? That would probably seal it up. There isnt to many things you can buy over the counter that will hold up to gas over time.

so the only thing that holds the clear window in is it snaps in to the aluminum body? I would have figured it would have been at least set up like a glass jar when you can fruits, and vegies. The one pice clear window sealing against the top surface of the theaded part of the fuel tank and then the aluminm part is just used to clamp it down. You know of any kind of epoxy that I could get that would hold up to the fuel and still work with polycarbonate plastic and aluminum?

So your going to use some expoxy and glue the clear window in? I guess I will have to take a look at the design when it gets here. I figured that the window would be threaded and the inside of the cap would be threaded. Put an oring on there and scew them toghether. Like you said before though the problem is that only one company is making them. :biggrin:

Aw man I just ordered mine toninght. I hope I dont have that problem. What color did you get? I just got the black one. How long before it started leaking? josh

I dont think it is the right stuff. I think he gave you gear oil that would typicaly be used in car rear differentails. Most gear oil that you use on 2 cycle transmissions are just say straight 80w, not 80w90. I run belray gear saver 80w oil in my banshees transmission. You shake a quart of that and then shake a quart of 80w90. The 80w gear saver feels more like automatic transmission fluid, and the 80w90 feels like syrup. See Belray makes a gear saver 80w90 that is for differentaials. And they make a gear saver straight 80, and 85 weight oil for tranmissions. Bel Ray 80-90 Gear Saver LINK Bel Ray LINK

You should leave it in or buy the cascade reed stuffers. That needs to be in there so the reedblock stays put. It also gives the gasket a place to seal up to. If you dont want to buy the reed stuffers then just take the stock innter piece out and port match it to the size of your intake manifold. The inlet to the reed cage doesnt need to be any larger than the size of the intake.

That is cool I understand. I will just have to try it out and see if I like it.

I am getting ready to put together my engine. I will be running wiseco blaster pistons with a 4mill hot rods long rod crank. The pistons didnt come with wirst pin berrings and I was wondering wich ones I need. Ones for a Blaster or ones for a Banshee? I would think that they would be the same ones as you guys running 68mm blaster pistons in a cub with a hot rods 4 mill long rod crank. Thanks for you help josh.