jbooker82

I have a tm designworks rear guide. It has two rollers in the bottom instead of the hard plastic. really nice setup but it is kind of expensive.

www.esr250.com has the same thing only made out of alumiunum instead of plastic.

How much does that run a gallon?

I email him and told him about it. That is the only pic I have of his machine. He will probably put a couple more pics up. The silencers dont even have end caps or turn downs. Just a flush welded aluminum end with the hole in the end. You have to pull the baffle out from the back to re pack the silencers.

how did you check the temperature of the head? I have a water temp gauge that monitors the water temp coming right out of the cylinder head. It runs inbetween 160 and 180. The head is a lot cooler than that. You really cant tell how hot your machine is running by using an temp gun on the out side of the engine. The head holds heat in there for I would imagine that the engines temperature was way more than 203 deg.

One of my friends got a 1994 Banshee. It has fmf pipes on it. I was wondering if any body could give me some info on wich ones these are. They have FMF stamped in them then it looks like there is a little name stamped in them down under the FMF Logo. Apprears to be Bill sombody. I was just wondering if they were the standard pipe fmf made or if the were gnarly's maybe even the FMF Rev pipe that I herd they made back in the day. Here is the only pic I have right now. I will see if I can get him to send me some more or maybe he will post some. Thanks for you time josh

That isnt a gasket it is just a wave washer to keep constant pressure on the valve knob. The o ring goes around the out side of the valve knob. Then there is a rubber seal in the back of the hole that the valve knob slides in to.

I ran dual pwk33's on my mx ported banshee with toomey pipes, and the other bolt on's. I am running them on my 4 mill motor now. What ever carb set up you go with make sure they are Keihin PWK's I had 2 PJ 34mm before and i didnt like them.

I was thinking that too. At what point do you just take the main jet out and leave it out. :biggrin:

The Eastwood company sells thermal infered lamps so you can do large items with out an oven. http://www.eastwoodco.com/

I would emagine that is is rich. No body runs a 190 with dual keihins. The only people that run that big are the Keihin 2 in to 1 guys.

Yea I ran my mx ported banshee with 33's. I am running them on my 400cc 4mill now. They have lots of adjustability. They are a great carb. I guess it depends on your riding style. If you ride on the pipe then I would go with 33's. If your more concerned about going from idle to getting on the pipe then you should probably go with 28'smm or a 4 stroke atv :laugh: . If it i me I would get the 33's.

They might be a little big for your motor since it is not ported. If you plan on porting the engine do that first then get the 33's. Nice thing about 33's is they work good on ported motors, and are still big enough if you ever decide to do a 4 mill stroker crank.

If you think you need a huge main jet then start out at 165 or so. That is where I started at with my 400cc Drag ported 4 mill from patiot racing. I have pwk 33mm carb but that shouldnt make a whole lot of difference on the main jet.

I just got my 400cc Drag ported engine going. It hauls the mail. The cylinders were ported by dan at patriot racing when i bought them. They needed resleeved so I sent them back to the man that ported them and had him put sleeves in that start out at 66mm and can be bored to 68mm on there final bore. He did an excelent job.

Here is what the boss intake looks like. Really cleans up the area around the carbs. Like every body says, any intake with the built in crossover tube is the way to go.

Your jet kit isnt going to work. It is made for stock Mikuni Carbs. Your carbs will be ok. They are not to big. I had pj34mm carbs on my banshee. I switched to Keihin PWK33mm carbs. I didnt like the PJ's but as for the size they are not to big.

Yea you can rig them up but you will have to cut the silencer tube down.

I hope nobody paid $60 since you can get them new from dennis kirik for 15 bucks a pice new. All the are is a mikuni carb boot / flange nothing special. Dennis Kirk Carb Boot link.

Yea you need SST Silencers because the stinger tube is shorter. SST expansion chambers are longer. You could cut your old ones off and try to make it work. I would just get new ones and sell your old silencers. How much do you want for them? :biggrin: A guy i ride with is looking for some FMF Silencers.

I bet they are stamped some where. That is why if you need a spark arrestor it is much better to get spakr arrested silencers intead of trying to slip by the law and stuff some screens in the end cap. I can imagine how much stuffing screen in the end of your pipe will hurt flow. The style like yours flows much better.

Get the V force 3's and then get cascades reed stuffer. That way you dont have the small hole matched to the big square opeaning of your 2 in to 1 carb intake. Cascade Inniovations LINK

Are these the ones that you have? Yours are the Spark Arrested Pro Circuit Silencers right? I had some fmf spark arrested silencers. They were the FMF Turbine Core II silencers. I bought them new and they didnt have any screen in them. If you would look in the end it had a cone and some fins that made the exhaust swirll. Looked like the Front (intake side) of a Jet Engine. As for the stock silencers are they stamped anywhere that says USFS Approved Spark arrestor?

Check on Ebay. I got a used Snap On compression tester for $100. Gauge looked bran new and it came with the 14mm long hose, 14mm short hose and the big threaed hose. (sorry cant remember the thread size).Tested it right beside my cheap wally world compression gauge. Wal mart one reeds about 20 to 25 psi lower than my snap on one.

YFShee woudl be sweet :thumbsup: