jbooker82

Thanks man. Jewlery for the banshee and raptor :biggrin:

Sold Payment Sent :thumbsup:

Here is mine. It is just a tail light. It doesnt come on when you hit the brakes. The guy use to sell them on ebay but he doesnt make them any more. It cost me $80 but I wanted one that would match my raptor's tail light colors. I can get the guys email for you if your intrested. He can make them in what ever color you like. Raptor's tail light.

I will take it. josh

What kind of Barnett Fibers are you running? What springs did you put in. I run the barnett carbon fiber clutch on my patriot racing 4 mill. I just used the stock springs since I have a lock up. The clutch kit did come with 2 sets of springs.

I run CEL needles in my drag ported 400cc 4 mill stroker.

Yea you will. With my banshee most of the time I only have to pull the choak on one carb. If it is cold out, I will have to pull both of them.

$250 AUD = $209 USD You might check with jeff at FAST. I think I got my keihin 33's with cable, taller carb cap adjusters, softer slide springs, an metal Idle speed adjustment screws for $350-$375 USD. The cost of shipping over seas might eat up the savings but it is worth a try. Carbs at FAST LINK I also got one of those carb sync tools. Makes setting up carbs way easier. Fire it up with the filters off get it to idle. Put that gauge up to the carb and see what number they are at. Adjust the Idle until the numbers are the same from carb to carb. Then give it a little gas and check the numbers. Adjust the carb cable at the top of the carb until you get the same number. That makes sure that the slide lift is dead on.

Yea you will uses 795 series pistons. I run blaster pistons because my cylinders needed resleeved. I had them resleeved with sleeves that start at 66mm. (stock blaster pison) And the sleeves final bore is 68.25mm. The blaster pistons are a little shorter too. about .025

Keihin doesnt make a kit. Some shops might peace together some stuff and call it a kit. Could range any where from 2 carbs, and the cable, all the way to Carbs, Cable, 2 Pod Filters, and assortment of jets. How much are the carbs going to cost you a piece? What intake are you going to run? I would recomend the boss racing intake. It has a crossover tube machined inbetween the two intakes. Really cleans up the carb area. Plus it moves the carbs up and back a little so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. Here is a pic of my intake. There is several versons of it out there.

I run the pro design plate. I bought it on here for 50 bucks. I wouldnt go spend 90 bucks or what ever they cost new though. If you cant find one used get a new Ricky Stator plate.

If you guys need any powder coating done talk to this man. He did mine. josh

I know I would like to put some shear's on. I run sand stars in the sand that helps. Not hooking up right off the line. I would probably be in a world of hurt if I had the right set of Haulers. When I trail ride it is in the sand hills of Nebraska at the Halsey National Forest. They dont allow paddle tires so I just run my kenda klaw's. That is probably the thing that keeps me from launching my self in to a tree. It sucks at the hill climb at the forest because it is all sand, and i get beat by my friends drag racing. I thought about trying some of those Kenda Knarly's with every other row of lugs shaved off. I am not out for competived drag racing. Just fun to have a fast machine. What started it was my girl friend took over my 720cc Raptor with kenz ported head, and stage 3 hot cam. I cant have my GF riding a faster machine than mine. :biggrin:

Well I got my 97 banshee rebuilt. 66mm Patriot Racing Drag Ported Cylinders. (400cc) 4 Mill Long Rod Crank Cool Head with Patriot Racing Domes Keihin PWK 33mm Carbs Toomey T5's Direct Drive Lockup with stock springs Barnett Carbon Fiber Clutch Timing set at +8 deg Black Chrome with Glitter in the Clear Coat powder coated frame New 2006 OEM Plastic with OEM Yamaha Decals (Most expensive graphics kit I have ever bought) Avenger A arms, with Works Shocks Alba Stock Lenght Swing Arm ( I know way to short for the cylinders but makes for a fun ride) I can make the list bigger but I will stop with the List. First ride after the breakin went to an atv jamboree at genoa nebraska. It ran well I still have some playing to do with the jetting. I didnt race any of the big dog's with +10 swinger's and out frame pipes. It was fun racing 450's and other 4 strokes. The look on there face when you go sreaming by them in 3rd with the front wheels completly off the ground is well worth it. :biggrin: Well any way here are the pics. (I forgot to put on my anodized black water pump cover.)

What makes the lockup clutch expensive is the clutch cover. The actual lockup part only costs around $100. Direct Drive has 2 options. One is that they take your stock cover and put the extension ring on the stock cover. The other option (witch is the better one) is they make a completly new cast clutch cover. You could run just the cover with out the lockup installed on the out side of the pressure plate. Here is a pic of mine. It is the direct drive die cast cover powedercoated black.

Might as well make it 6. Just drop the wolverine name and call it a raptor 450.

I trail ride my banshee with PWK33's and POD's. I just dont plan on using my banshee as an outboard marine engine. I had 34mm PJ's with an air box. I used the UPP Carb boost for bigger carbs. No Reed Spacers. The clutch arm rubbed on the carb and the air box was a pain to get in. So I got POD Filters. It is to much of a pain to try running bigger carbs, and an air box.

Get a boss racing intake. It moves the carbs up and back so they dont hit. It also has a crossover tube machined in so you dont need to run a boost bottle or external crossover tube.

well when you leaned out the oil from 24:1 to 40:1 it makes the machine richer. Your jets are going to flow the same amount. Your just getting more fuel less oil. A rich condition will cause a slower Idle. That is probably why you have had to turn the idle up a little. I wouldnt worry about it if everything runs ok.

I bought a frame that was already powdercoated. It didnt have the rear fender brackets on it. The ones that go down by where the stock heel gaurds mount up. Does any body make a billit bracket that will clamp on to the frame? Kind of like a ress clamp only its a rear fender bracket? If no body makes them maybe I will just try to make somthing with a 1in u bolt and some pices of flat steel. josh

Yea they will both help you out. The shaved flywheel will let your machine rev faster. Get a Ricky Stator timing plate off of ebay for 35 bucks. Set the timing to +4 and run premium pump fuel. That will help out on the bottom end. Are you running a stock head or do you have a cool head? If your running the stock head take it off and send it with the flywheel and have it shave down to. That will bump up your comression. If you have the cash you could get a Noss Machine head instead. Much better way to go but if your on a tight budget than a shaved stock head will do. :thumbsup:

He did a great job on the porting of and resleeving my cylinders. I just kind of point people to his web page when they ask what pipes are better. I know that all builders port jobs are not the same, but he lists a certain pipe for each application. Instead of toomey t5's for everything, then if your drag racing the shear's.

Bel Ray Gear Saver 80 weight here. The 2 stroke transmission fluid that says 80 weight isnt thick like you probably thinking. Get you 2 quarts of what ever type of 2 stroke transmission oil. Shake one of them and then shake a quart of 80w-90 gear oil that is made for automobiel rear differentaials. There is a deffinat difference.

Take a look and Patriot Racings web page. Patriot Racing Web Page LINK If you click on the 350cc Hot Trail Motor you will see that they recomend DMC's for there trail port.

The Blaster Piston also is .025 shorter between the wrist pin and the piston head. And the crown is also a different shape. It is flatter. I am running blaster pistons with my 4 mill long rod crank. I had to get domes that were cut for blaster pistons.