jbooker82

I like a lockup because it kind of autmaticaly feathers the clutch for you when launching. I like have the soft stock clutch springs and a lockup. That way it launches better but you dont get clutch slip when your up and moving.

It is a genuine Aligator rotor, not a knock off XON, or Gatorbrake $20 bucks shipped with in the USA.

I would just paint over them as is so you get a nice textured look. Plus it would require a lot less elbow grease.

So what yoru saying it is ...........it is real benificial to run with the lights off.

My banshee drops a few rpms at idle when i turn th lights on. How much of a drag it creats who knows if it is even measureable.

I would stay away from FF, or ASR. Hiem joints suck. They get dirt in them then they squeek and pop. I would also stay away from A arms that use Hiem Jonts where they mount to the frame. You have to manually set the caster with those style of A arms. How you set that is by having one joint turned in or out less than the other one where it mounts to the frame. That moves the ball joint or heim joint on the end of the a arm forward or back, wich tilts the spindle forward or back. If the setting isnt done correct you will have an inconsistant feel to the steering. You can get caster adjustable a arms that are a lot easer to set. Usually they have a sollid tube on the upper a arm like the factory a arms. It will just be a little narrower and you have a spacer on each side of the a arm. Or you can move both spacers to the front or rear of the a arm. Alba makes a set of gull wing arms that can be switched between standard travel and long travel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-YFZ-350-2-A-ARMS-CHROMOLY-ADJUSTABLE-ALBA-PRO-ELITE-207-AA-B-/170889631404?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c9d0d6ac&vxp=mtr Ace Fabrication also looks good. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ace-Fabrication-Yamaha-Banshee-2-up-1-a-arms-/251141473252?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a7932c3e4&vxp=mtr

Well let us know how it goes. You will still see a little loss due to the lower compression but that can be fixed using a cool head with smaller domes. It will bring the compression back up if you plan on running at that elevation for a while.

I would go with as far forward as you can. That way you have more weight on the front end. +1 in on the front forward is about like +0.5 in on the swing arm.

I would stay away from anything with Heim Joints, even where the A arms mount to the frame.

Higher Evevation = Less Oxygen = Less fuel. You dont go up in elevation and increase the main jet size. I would start out with how you had it jetted at 900 ft and work down from there.

Jeff at FAST is where you need to go. Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod crank is $435.

You could always get +2's then run a 3/2 off set instead of the 2/3 offset (inside / outside). It will be the same width but it will turn easier. Or +3's with a 4/1 offset wheel.

Runs good, but I swaped motors. It came with the HPI F4.1 and I put the newer F4.6 cc motor in it. I also put HPI's suspension conversion on. It lowers the truck a little and greatly improves the handling. I also put the bullit proof diffs in it. Doing back flips is real hard on the front diff. With the regular ones it tears teeth off.

I probably would have left the cases bare. That way carb cleaner, and gasoline are not going to mess the bare aluminum finish.

Yea and the funny thing is that Savage on bench I got from MarineNYC. The Baja 5SC is my latest one. I put it together on the kitchen table. A couple months after that was my birthday so my wife, got my mom, and mother in law to go in on the bench for my b day. She was tired of me working on the Baja 5SC on the kitchen table.

Here is what they look like with the under bench tool box. You can add 2 of them to the 6 and 8 foot bench but it will about fill all the area up underneith. The tool box add on's acutally bolt in as part of the bench so they are non movable and real solid. I would prefer the 5 drawer over the 3 though.

I have a 6' craftsman work bench. It is a modular setup. You can start out with the surface of your choice and a frame. Then add the steel peg board with back light, you can add two, 3 or 5 drawer tool boxs underneith or a set of shelfs. You have the choice between black or red, and for work surfaces you can have, MDF, Butcher Block, Bamboo Butcher Block, or Stainless steel. The stainless steel top is what I have and it is just the thick MDF board wraped in stainless. I didnt want some thing that would absorb oil. Just a quick wipe down with acetone and all oil is gone.

I had a set of ITP Black watters in a 20x12x8 that hooked up really well. They were super heavy and you could litterly run them with hardly any air.

Best sounding so far. Detroit Diesel 453T. Nothing like a little 4 cylinder 2 stroke diesel with a turbo force feeding a supercharger.

Get a pair of riding boots with leather on the inside. Buring your legs above your knees shouldnt be an issue.

It is not a back fire they are worried about. It is a glowing pice of hot carbon they are worried about. So your 2 stroke is more suspetable than what a 4 stroke would be. As dry as it has been I would bet the DNR isnt going to be in a playing mood. If your running FMF pipes it is well worth the investment to get a set of Turbine Core II's. They have a really good design. A spark arrestor as to ethire trap a particle of a certian size or it has to break it down to a certian size. Screens do the traping. The FMF Tubine cores spin the exhaust smashing the carbon against the outer wall breaing it down in to smaller pieces. The home made spark arrestors are hoaky at best. #1 they smash the core tube down when you try to sandwich it between the tube and the end cap. #2 There is a really small area of the screen for exhaust to flow though. The smaller area also makes for them to plug up faster.

Wich is designed to burn in a low rpm engine at a high altitude.

Like what was said above they cut the combustion chambers deeper in to the head. That way the piston doesnt smack it because they will come up out of the cylinder an extra 2mm. You use the stroker domes, or cut head so you dont have to stick a thick 2mm spacer plate under the cylinders. Most all builders when they build a 4 mill motor will port the cylinders to not use a spacer plate.

I would start out at a 160 main, CEL needle middle clip, #48 pilots with the air screws 1.5-2 turns out. I would imagine you will end up around a 155 to 152 main.

Or just start buying parts if you have a hard time of saving money