jbooker82

Get you a Nology Coil with the Hot wires from Jeff at FAST. The nology coil has two post sticking off that you just put spark plug wires on. The wires are not molded in to the coil like the stock set up is. You dont have to run the Hot Wires. Two regular spark plug wires will work if you dont want to drop the cash for the 2 hot wires. I am sure jeff would sell you just coil if you wanted it. FAST Nology LINK

If the midrange is fine you dont drop the needles to fix a problem off idle. What size of pilot jet do you have in your Keihin's? Keihin should buy the rights to this write up and include it in the box with their carbs. It is that good. DRI Keihin Jetting Tech LINK

With a K&T port job I would say 33 PWK's are the minimum size carb. Probably more along the lines of 35 PWK's. Call K&T to make sure though.

If your thinking about doing a 4 mill crank. Dont have your cylinders ported for the stock crank. Once they are ported for the stock crank the port timings are to far advanced for the 4 mill crank. Do the 4 mill crank and get a port job that matches the style of riding you want. I would go for the dune port. Dune port sounds agressive but it is probably the best port job. The builder ports the cylinders to get the best ballance of low end torque and high rpm horse power. With the 2:1 intake if you feel that it is holdingyou back you can always sell it on here and get a dual carb setup. It will run with a 2:1. mx port job = low end grunt = Paul Turner Mids. Trail port job = all around port job = DMC Pipes Dune port job = Maximum HP with out sacrificeing Mid range. = Toomey T5 pipes Drag Port = Maximum HP at the expence of low and mid range power = CPI or other Drag Pipes.

Intake is sold. Payment Sent

I would check the top end out. I had the same thing happen to me with the reeds. The banshee will actully start sucking air in throught the exhaust pipe with broken reeds. If you ran it for long enough you probably ruined the top end.

If you get a noss head you dont have to change out to longer head studs. Plus you can get them anodized and 10% discount for BHQ members.

Yea if you wanted to take the lockup off all you would need to buy would be the stock shorter screw/ bolts that hold the lock up and clutch springs on. Heck you probably could do some swaping on here. Trade your lockup, cover and bolts to some one that wants a lockup.

Direct Drive makes there own all 100% new die cast cover. It is one piece so it doesnt leak.

yea I run sunoco standard 110.

What kind of intake do you have? My boss racing intake moved the carbs up and back so they dont hit.

All you do is pull the flywheel off and then take the key out. The key is off center. Replace it with a stock key that is straight. Then put the flywheel on.

I am with Loco. Get PWK 33's. And get a boss racing intake. They lift the carbs up so the LH carb bowl doesnt hit the clutch arm. It aslo gets rid of the crossover tube. It has one buil in to the intake. Here is pics of the intake on my banshee. Jeff should have everything you need. He has geat prices on the PWK's as well.

I just orered some skat trak exteme 20x10x10 9 paddle tires for my machine. It is a drag ported 4mill 400cc on a stock swing arm. That is was Dan from patriot racing sugested to me for a stock. He is the one who did the motor work as well.

Send your domes to david. That is what I did. He took the measuerments that I gave him, and the meauseded my domes and custom cut a set of new ones. Squish is right on at .038-.040. Plus he turnd them out the same day he got them and had them back to me so I didnt miss my ride i was going on. David is a great guy to deal with. josh

No I havent ran 28-30's. When I was talking to jeff at fast before I bought my carbs. He told me that if I was just going to stick with pipes, reeds and cool head that the 28-30's would be ok. He told me if I plan on porting my banshee (wich it had already been done) to go with the 33's

What kind / brand of compression tester did you buy? What does the tip look like. Are the threads long like the spark plugs or are they short? josh

Get the CRC Carb R Clean, and a can of CRC Brake Clean. Dont get the break cleaner that is the non chlorinated stuff, that stuff sucks.

A good port job. That will be a mod that you will really notice, like turning a light on in the dark. Reeds wont really increase top end power, but increase throttle responce.

Might as well throw big bore sleeves in there while your at it. It wont cost you any more than just doing stock replacement so why not.

There might not be enough thread on the longer studs to tighten down the noss head. I dont know how much thicker a cool head is compaired to a stock or noss head. josh

His are small bore. I alread sent him a set of 20cc SB domes. :thumbsup:

I dont think toomey makes stainless steel pipes. They are ethire bare mild steel or chrome plated steel

WESW deffinatly knows his PJ's. He helped me out when I was running them. I would try a DEK like wesw said. The middle letter is the lenght of the needle. CGL is longer than the DEK. So the middle clip in the DEK is goin to be richer than the Middle clip in the CGL. DRI has a great write up about tuning Keihin Carbs. They explain keihins lettering system for needles. and all kinds of good info. Deffinatly book mark this page. You will be reading it more than once. Duncan Racing Keihin Tech Page LINK

did you make sure not to pinch any orings? That could cause a leaking compression. What is your compression before and after the install. Maybe the domes you got were actually bigger than the stock head. Causing the compression to be lower.