jbooker82

Yes noss machine domes are the same as pro design. Deffinatly do the timing plate. Reeds dont really add hp. Might help out a little. Reeds makes the banshee more snappy on the throttle. Better throttle responce. Bumping up the compression will add more power in the mid range. You should do a compression check to see what psi your at now. Install the gauge, hold the throttle wide opean and kick until the needle quits moving. You can run about 150 psi on 90-91 octane fuel. If your wanting more power then you need to do a real port job not just a clean up.

With my new pro design radiator it runs 150-160. Havent played around on hills barly moving to see what it does with little air moving over the radiator yet.

Lean usually cause hot conditions. Maybe your shee just runs hot. What bore is the cylinders on. The thinner the sleeves the hotter your shee will run. Try steping up the oil to 32:1. Not saying it is going to help but oil helps combat friction, and friction makes heat.

You know where the cable hooks up to the slide. Take the cable out. Then get a socket that fits the bolt head down in the slide. Take it out. It screws down on to the needle and holds the needle in the carb. The needle is the thing sticking out of the bottom of the slide. There is grooves cut in the top of the needle. There will be a little clip in on of the grooves. You can take that clip out and put it in the other grooves wich would ethier raise or lower the needle. If you raise the needle you make it more rich in the midrange. If you lower it you make it leaner in the mid range.

How hot is it out when your riding. What kind of riding are you doing. Mine gets up to 200-210 when I am just playing around on little hills, not realy moving any air over the radiator. Other wise it is at 160 if it is cool out or 180 if it is hot out. I would be finding out why your running 220 that is kind of warm. I would shut mine down if it was getting that warm.

Do you know what size the carbs are?. Keihin also makes a 35mm PWK Air Striker carb. They have 4 vents. The two that come out of the sides like mine. Then they have two that go up and make a loop and come donw the other side. Air Sriker carbs also have a two little fins on the front side of the carb. Here is a Pic of an A.S. Carb. See what needles are in your carbs now. PWK33mm carbs come with CGL PWK35mm carbs come with DGK PWK35mm A.S. come with DEK Most people that run the regular PWK33 or 35mm carbs run a CEL needle. If you dont have a pair of those then you will need some of them. As for mains I would get two of each. 148, 150, 152, 155, 158, 160 Pilots: Two of each 42, 45, 48, 52 That will give you a good selection of jets to play with. This is what I am running on my 4mill 400cc Patriot Racing Drag Ported Stock Cylinder motor. Main 165 Pilot 48 Needle CEL Clip Postion middle Air screw 2.5 turns out. If your were running a single carb your jetting would be up in the 190's for main, and pilot jet around 55.

I dont know what he is talking about with split base. The two case halfs from yamaha are only around 500 bran new so I dont know what your mechanic is talking about.

:thumbsup: I have never had a machine greatly increase the compression after break in. Maybe a hand full of psi. but dont expect a 50psi jump to get you up to 140.

Yea if you have dual keihin carbs the #182 main jet is your problem. That is way to big for a dual carb set up. You should be in the ball park of 160-150. And a pilot jet size around 48-52 for PJ's or 48-42 for PWK's. Check and see what needles you have in them. Just take the needle out and up at the top there should be 3 letters stamped on them. CEK needles work pretty good in PJ carbs or CEL's in PWK carbs. The easiest way to tell bewteen PJ and PWK carbs is how you adjust the idle speed. On PJ's you turn the choak nob. On PWK's there is a screw that is anged up that you turn and it lifts the slide up. PJ's also say Keihin verticaly where PWK's says Keihin horizontly. This is my old PJ Carb setup. Thsi is my PWK 33mm carb setup

I like my dual 33's :thumbsup:

I run the cascade heat wraps on my toomy T5's. My filters are KN# RU-1090 They have a 10 deg angle flange. Cascade LINK

Look at the clutch arm on the engine. Does the arrow on the clutch arm, and on the cases line up. Probably not if your almost out of adjustment on the clutch lever. josh

My compression is 185-190 on my blaster piston 400cc motor. I just run Sunoco Standard 110.

Get you a nology coil and put a regular spark plug boot on that end. That way if you want to change wires you just take them off like on a car. No pushing a cut wire on to a nail post or screw splice.

Shouldnt be restrictive. Make sure the intake boot and the hole in the reeds are the same size. Opean one or the other up to make a smooth transition. Cascade sells reed stuffers too. I run them because I have a boss racing intake and it has large square opeaings on the back. Cascade LINK

I got the fitting from these guys. JT ATV link Click on the Product Order Form. They are gauge T's at the bottom 29.95. I would call to order it though. Because he has ones for electric gauges and ones for mechanical gauges. You could just get the kit from him. It comes with everything you need including the T fitting.

I got the esr one on my yamaha raptor too. It works good too. I have seen people install the ESR one in the hose that goes from the head to the top of the radiator. They put it way up by the radiator so you can see it through one of the vent holes in the gas tank cover.

Here is mine. It is just a manual temp gauge made for cars. I did buy the fitting that you splice in the top radiator hose from a guy that sells a temp gauge kit for atv's. I talked to the guy on the phone and he seems like a nice guy. :thumbsup: JT Atv LINK Picutre of the fitting that goes in the radiator hose.

You have a link to these bulbs?

That is so true. Only adjust one at a time, and in the order Snop said. :thumbsup:

Dont get discouraged. It is hard tracking down a problem when you do a buunch of work at once. Next time you have the carbs appart check and see what size of pilot jet is in there, and what clip postion the needle is on. You might try throwing your old stator on see what it does. I have herd of people going through a couple of them to get a good one.

I got the real K&N's from Cascade. At first they sent me the ones for 33-35mm carbs. (I have Keihin PWK 33mm carbs) The ones they send me had the 20 deg angled flange and they were angled to much. I sent them back and they exchanged them for ones that were 10 deg angled flange they fit like a dream. :thumbsup: The K&N part number of my filters is. RU-1090 K&N RU-1090 LINK

I got mine from In2glamis on ebay. In2glamis is Inland Atv from california. I have had some people tell me they are not the sharpest tools in the shed. I got my intake from them and my toomey t5's with no problems. They dont have any listed. They were the cheapest I found. I never called jeff at FAST though. There are several companies that sell some version of it. I think Majic Mike on here sells one too. White Knuckle is supose to be the original maker. Theres also have the cross in the middle. Here is there link. You would want the medium one 33mm-35mm. White Knuckle Racing LINK

I had FMF SST pipes and silencers and switched to toomey T5's. The T5's are one of the best sounding pipes for the banshee. The header or expansion chamber has a real poping sound to it. You can really hear the cracking sound coming from the exhaust.

Also it is hard to jet a bike on the street. I like to put a good load on my bike by screaming up a big hill when I am trying to figure my jetting out. If your just warming it up at your house and doing a quick blast down the street it could be your just not clearing it out. My banshee is slugish at first until I take it out and opean it up to clear it out for the fist time after I warm it up.