jbooker82

Or just buy you a set of Mattoon Banshee cases for 2400 bucks.

With my snap on one you just put it in finger tight.

here is a link for you http://www.motul.com.au/product_line_up/fo...s/others03.html josh

Just get you a Chrome Plated Plastic one :biggrin:

you might as well pull the engine out. Lot easier to dissassemble on the bench. Your deffinatly not getting away with doing a top end.

try switching plug wires from one side to the other. See if the problem still happens on the same cylinder or if it move to the other cylinder after you swaped the wires around.

I explained the differences between the cheap ones and the Good ones here. With Pictures http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...pression+tester

I would say your stator just came loose then went in to the flywheel. I bought my banshee and it never ran like a banshee. Went to kick start it one day and it was locked up. Pulled the entire engine out to see what the probem was. Turns out the stator was stuck to the flywheel magnets and that made it seem like it was locked up. The reason why it never ran like a banshee was becuse it turned my adjustable stator plate to -10 deg timing.

Yea but the bad thing about regular dot5 is that when moisture gets in to they system it doesnt mix with the fluid. It ends up pooling at the lowest point. The bottom of the brake calipars. With dot 3 and 4 it will stay suspended in the fluid. You can bleed that out by putting in new fluid. Since the bleed screws are on the top of your calipars you wont ever be able to get the water out unless you take the braks off and clean everything up. All brake systems eventually get some moisture in them.

1. My banshee take 1 64oz bottle and that is with my prodesing radiator.

yea you should be good to go if it is compatible with dot3 and 4. Just stay away from dot 5. It is silicone in it and wont mix with dot 3 and 4. I run Motul Dot 5.1. It has the properties of dot5 but is is non silicone base and works with dot3 and 4.

A Reserve tank that hangs inbetween the frame behined the POD filters.

You shouldnt have any problem with a banshee in snow. Get you a set of Maxis 4 snows, or better yet ProWedges. They hook up good on packed snow.

Running lean could cause the crank berrings to get ate up. Wich would allow the piston to hit the head like the pictures show. That is also why the piston doesnt go all the way up. The roller bearing on the crank is ate up so it wont push the piston up to TDC. I would do the stroker while your at it. You will need to have your cylinders ported for the stroker crank as well. Then get a noss head with cut domes for the stoker crank. That is a much better option instead of haveing a spacer plate inbetween the cylinders and the crank case.

Wow that really sucks. I guess I doged a bullit

If your less than 1 turn out on the air screw you need a larger pilot If your more than 3 turns out on the air screw you need a smaller pilot.

Not sure what your trying to say. Look at how many people run Amsoil Dominator. It is an injector oil.

Where did you order the oil from. What little I could find looked like just a small cylinder (hair spray bottle size) and it said scooter oil. Probably only about a pint of oil maybe a litte more or a little less. No Samuri Racing oil.

The plastic one one bind up any worse than the metal ones. The plasic is graphite impregnated for lubercation perposes and so chain lube and dirt dont stick and build up.

There is a reason why the T.M Designe Works case saver is so much more. It is far superior. The only thing that hold that aluminum one on is the 3 blots at the bottom. Your chain binds at the top that long case saver is going to bend or break those 3 little screws right off. A case saver is a sacrificial part. Yea the plastic might get chewed up it also absorbs energy instead of transfering it to another part. Plus the TM one rests agains the cases and goes behind the sprocket. It also really protects the top lip of the top case.

If your gauge looks like the one that you posted that would severly cause the compression to be low. #1 It doent have long threads like the spark plug has. Just has the short ones. #2 If it doenst have the shrader valve's in the very end and has a long threaded adaptor it will add at least 3cc to the cylinder head. I explained it all in this post. With pic's Cheap vs Snap On Compression Tester LINK I bought a good used Snap on gauge over a new craftsman. josh

I would try a 310 and 320 to see what it does before I would buy a radiator. The prodesing radiator is a sweet product but there are plenty of people out there running big bore monsters with a stock radiator.

I wouldnt recomend bearing grease. Use Vasoline or Petrolium Jelly. The vasoline will melt when the engine gets up to temperature. Bearing grease will not since it protects metal part over at least 300 deg. Get a chunk in the water jacket it is going to stay there. Or plug up a core in your radiaotor. Vasoline will melt and not plug up the cooling system. It porbably woudnt plug up the first time but if you do it enought times with bearing grease it could. josh

On second thought I would run it. I broke my banshee in on Quaker State 2 cycle oil. Figued it would help break it in. Kind of like not runing a full synthetic in a 4 stroke for the first oil change. 2s has to be way better than Quaker State.

I would think you would be ok. I know 2 s is probably a little easier on the environment since it is what you run in your 2 stroke jet ski's.