jbooker82

Are you loosing any trans fluid. Could be burning that oil if you had a bad crank seal.

You need a boss racing or white knucke intake. Here is a picture of my boss racing one. The carbs are moved back and up so they dont hit on the clutch arm. They also have a built in crossover tube so you dont have all that mess above your intakes.

I believe Jeff at FAST now sells them. You can also get the White Knuckle Racing. Same thing only they have the cross hairs in them. White Knuckle Racing LINK

That sucks man. I always wonder about that with me. I got 4 years in with the Rail Road. I really dont want to buy a house until I have been there for at least 8-10yrs. At least with the rail road you dont totaly loose your job. When they need some employees back they call them back in seniority order.

Your reeds dont opean that far especially if your running v force reeds. V force reeds use 4 reed pettals opeaing a smaller amount vs. the stock using 2 reed petals opeaing more. That is why v force reeds give better throttle responce. 2x as many lighter tension reed opeaning a smaller amount.

That is good general area to start in. :biggrin: Inbetween the Cylinders and the Reeds or inbetween the Reeds and the intake boots? If I ran them I would put them in between the Reeds and the Cylinders. That is how they are supose to go.

October 20th and 21st. This year. Read for your self. Nohva LINK

I did the rebuild kit and it still rattled. I wraped the crap out of the kickstarter base with Teflon Tape to make it a tight fit.. That stopped the rattle. It still rattles but you can't hear it.

If you put your temp gague on the bottom radiator hose then your wasting your time. That is always going to be cool because the coolant has ran through the radiator. When you got it hot onece you probably really got it hot. If you want to be able to see it while riding put in in the top hose up behine the radiator. That way you can reed the gauge through one of the holes in the gas tank cover. That would be 90% more accurate reading that what your seeing now.

Ehh it is the least I could do since you sold me your bran new Thumb Throttle off your 06

Acroding to vito's web page they say that there studs do not work with a Pro Design Head. Looks like vitos studs are a little shorter, but longer than stock. You could try using your PD studs. They might just be a little long.

That is what I run DID and RK make good chains. I would get the RK GB520XSO though. Same chain only the gold version. :thumbsup:

I would get a direct drive lockup and clutch cover. Direct Drive makes a 100% new cast aluminum clutch cover so you dont have to cut your stock one and weld on or epoxy on the extension ring. Plus it gets rid of that vent that goes in by the water pump, and it is thicker around where the kick starter is.

If you have any doubt about doing a 4 mill do it. If you decide to do it later on down the road you will probably have to get new cylinders if you get a some what agressive port job.

I have herd of people running no gaskets at all. Just yamabond the cylinders to the cases. Really what is the difference. You dont use any gasket inbetween case halfs and the cases are subjected to the same pressure and chemicals as the base of the cylinder. I run a gasket so I can sleep at night though. :thumbsup:

You might get a set of hd clutch springs and run 3 stock and 3 heavy. It would help the clutch out a lot. josh

You should really get bigger intakes for those carbs. Stuffing them in to stock boots is asking for an air leak. Get you a boss racing intake. It moves the carbs up and back. Also gets rid of the crossover tube because it has one machined in.

All you do is swap the parts out. Nothing specail. I would get one from Cascade Innovations. There's have 2 flat spots on the out side up by the adjustment nut. That allows you to hold the pice while adjusting the clutch. Others I have herd about have the flat spot on the other side so you have to set the adjustment, take the clutch back appart to thighten it down. Then re assemble the clutch. Cascade Pancake Mod LINK

I start to worry about 210. Shut it down 220 When I am moving around mine doesnt get over 180.

Do a search on ebay for Banshee Throttle. There is some billit ones on there.

Are your cylinders ported now? Where they reported for the 4mill crank? Some builders do there portjobs with the spacer plate. If your builder ported the cylinders for use with a spacer plate then you probably should keep the plate. When you raise or lower the cylinders your changing the port timings wich can affect how your banshee runs.

Throw the plate in the trash, and get some domes for your cool head that are cut for clearance for the 4mill stroke.

I wish i could claim those as mine but there not.

It should pump fluid better since the tolorances are tight.

Ordred 2 my self. See what this stuff is about. 18 bucks a lieter.