jbooker82

No dont use blaster pistons to add displacement. Have you herd of the term Long Rod Crank. That is where the conecting rods on the long rod crank are 5mm longer than the stock rod length. The 5mm longer rod requires a piston that has the wrist pin moved up 5mm. Other wise the piston would come up out of the cylinder 5mm. If your between 64mm (stock bore) and 66mm bore you use wiseco 795 series pistons. If your over 66mm then you run blaster pistons. Most comon is a 68mm bore Cub. I run 66mm blaster pistons. I bought a set of shot, drag ported 4 mill stroker stock cylinders. I had them resleeved with sleeves that start the bore out at 66mm and go all the way to 68.5mm. If you bore your stock cylinders out to 66mm (stock bore blaster pistons) then you can only bore your cylinders out 1 more time to 66.5mm. If you did do this you wouldnt need blaster pistons anyway, unless your running a long rod crank. If your wanting more displacement then split the cases and drop in a 4 mill crank. That way you dont wast all the bores that your cylinders have now. Plus the 4 mill crank will give the banshee more torque in the mid range. josh

You could aslo do a spin off of your old name. Black Flag Motorsports or Racing.

F Bomb Motorsports or F Bomb Racing. Decal could be a Bomb being dropped with the WWII Shark Painted on it. Like the old fighter planes. Hot Rods F Bomb Decal LINK

Ipone Samuri Racing Oil (smells like strawberrys) Very expensive. 18 bucks a liter. Klotz Supertechniplate.

Red Line Racing or Red Line Motorsports maybe you could use www.rlr.com if www.redlineracing.com is taken. Or www.rlm.com You could have a tac with some flames at 9000- 10,000 RPM Red Line as your logo. josh

That Rihno sounds awesome. I would love to have one of those. What all have you done performance wise to it?

Snoop is the 2 in to 1 Pro. :thumbsup:

He doesnt have them on his site. I was thinking about buying a set last winter, and he had them then. Just wernt on his web page. josh

Yea FAST sells those tires.

Or at least a 175-180.

Heat it up with a toarch. Then take a birthday cake candle and run around the out side. That way the wax melts and gets drawn in to the threads.

I got my Reed gaskets from dannym44. Looks like his price has went up a couple of bucks. 12.50 for 10. I did have to trim them a little to fit the v force reeds. (The one that goes inbetween the cylinder and reed) Dannym44's auctions LINK I got the Base Gaskets from thehulajay. He also makes the reed gaskets. I am sure he would sell you any combo you wanted. thehulajay's auction LINK

Yep they just move the carbs back and up to clear the float bowl and clutch arm. Since you already got one of those big thick intakes you dont need the reedspacers. My boss racing intake clears my pwk 33's with no problem.

I dont think you can even get a helmet cam for 100 bucks. Guess you can duct tape your cell phone and hit record and do 30 sec vids. This one is a nice one. But $849 blows the 100 dollar budget. MotoCam LINK

You could do that but what is the purpose of getting rid of the Prodesing Intakes and getting a boss intake with built in crossover tube. When you start stuffing bigger intakes, and carbs in there you might as well switch to POD filters. If the air box means that much to you then keep the stock carbs and intakes. Chances are if you ride in wet enough conditions that your worried about your filters, then your cant really put all the power to the ground due to the muddy wet conditions.

I the stock one has some kind of stamp I think it says denso or Nippondenso, and some type of yamaha part number. The RS one is not marked. I think it just has an Arrow Stamped on it. Here is the RS Voltage Regulator. RS Voltage Regulator LINK The yellow wire hooks up to the blue wire and the brown wire goes to chassis ground. Tell them your putting it on a banshee and they will put the right bullit terminal on it for you. josh

Yea not more horse power but brigher lights.

Yep here is the pecking order Pro Wedge II's 4 Snows Zippers. They are all the same tread designe but the Pro Wedge II's are the best.

It would run with that, but it is far from being Ideal performance. The Regular intakes that use that style of boot dont make a 45 deg anlge to the left or right to get to the cylinder. That is what is going to kill performance. I would just run the dual carb set up until you get the right boot.

I get my gaskets from a guy on ebay that makes them. He sells 6 base gaskets for 15-20 bucks, and sells 10 reed gaskets for 10 bucks.

I like the stock weight flywheel. More friendly for bigger guys. Yea your banshee's power will feel more snappy with the lighter flywheel, but the power will also fall of faster if you bog it in a corner. It is a double edged sword.

Probably a play / dune port job. Getting your stock cylinders ported is a 100% improvement over stock porting. Why not throw in a 4 mill crank? Your port job is going to cost the same weather it is for a stock stroke crank or a 4mill crank. You will need a cool head and run stroker domes though.

You can run a thinner base gasket. Cometic sells a High Performance gasket kit that comes with some super thin base gaskets. They are about like a sheet of note book paper. It will change the squish clearance (distance between the Piston, and Head). I have herd of people running no base gasket at all. Just some yambond sealant. They do that go get the proper squish clearance, and not really to raise compression. You use yambond to seal the case halfs. The case halfs are subject to the same pressure and chemicals as the seal inbetween the cylinders and cases. I would just use regular gaskets and have the stock head shaved, or get a cool head. That way you dont have to buy a $40 gasket kit to get some special gaskets to help raise compression everytime you tear it appart. Plus the gaskets just raise the compression a little. Not really worth the 40 bucks the gasket kit costs.

You should consider puting in some prolites while your there.

I have both. It shifts real good. I havent had a problem with going inbetween gears or having it jump in to gear. Neutral is harder to find but once you get use to it, it isnt that hard. Rev it a little with the cutch pulled in, in second, and half a click down as the RPM's fall.