jbooker82

Every motor is different. Some can handle a litte more compression on the same octane with out getting into trouble. Another factor is ignition timeing. Do you have a timing plate or advance timing key. If you dont have any timing advance then you can run a little more compression. I ran my banshee at 150 psi and +4deg timing on 90-91 octane fuel at 2000 ft elevation. Most people will say 150psi and +4 deg is the ball park max for premium fuel. josh PS. Most people also say when you start getting around 100 psi on a stock top end it is time for a new top end. The reason why is parts just get slopy. They are not with in spec. Putting a cool head on will only mask the problem. Sure the compression will be good again but the tolarances still are not. They will continue to wear until they get to the point where ther is a mechanical falure.

It is a lockup clutch. www.directdrivecnc.net josh

CEK's will work fabolous. Wes helped me get my PJ's figured out. :thumbsup:

Followed up with an Acetone rub down. Gets all rid of all the polish, and finger prints.

Yea the rubbers carb flanges come with the intake. UPP and Moose make adaptors for the carb to air box. I got mine on ebay. I believe that jeff at fast sells a thick intake with crossovertube built in.

Get a Boss Racing intake. It gets rid of the crossover tube because it has one built in. It moves the carbs up and back so they wont hit. There is no way I would weld that bolt hole up on the float bowl. It makes jetting so much easier. Just take a 17mm wrench and thread out the plug vs. messing with 4 phillips head screws to take the bowl completly off. :shoothead: My PJ's rubbed when I had just the UPP Racing intake boots, (for bigger carbs) and no reed spacers. I bought a Boss Racing Intake and it fixed the problem. I now run PWK 33's with the same intake with no problems. PJ's PWK 33's Intake

What type of pipe do you need them for. They are not really universal fit.

Here is some more. I bought a frame powdercoated from Kaotik1. Black Chrome with Glitter in the Clear Coat.

Another thing if you get a set of pods from cascade then get a pair of there exhaust heat wraps. You slide them over the silencer tubs. They also help keep from melting the outerwears. They have 2 different lengths. I run the shorter ones with my toomeys. Cascade Heat Wraps LINK

I was just wondering what kind of an intake your were running. If your running a Boss Racing style then you wont want the Pod fitlers with a 20 deg angle. They will angle down to far and rub really bad on the cross bar under the fitlers. The angled K&N's fit better than the straight foams. Looks like the foam filters are touching the pipes. The angled K&N's you can move them around so the dont touch. Here is a pic of my intake. You can see that the intake already angles the carbs back down and with the 20 deg filters it was just to much.

Yea you can just use regular antifreeze. For the water bottle bracket you can cut the back off your stock air box. I run an armidilo bracket. They make one regular one and one that holds a spare set of plugs. I run the one with the plug holder. Armidilo Water Bottle Bracket from RM ATV LINK

15 passes at 300 feet is 4500. 3.5 gallons per mile. Not Bad :biggrin:

What kind of Intake do you have. I got mine from www.Cascadeinnovations.net they sent me the 20 deg angled ones first. They were to much of an angle because I have a thick boss racing intake. So I swapped them out for some ones that have a 10 deg angle. They fit really good. The K&N part number for the 10 deg ones I am running is RU-1090.

The longer rod makes the angle of the conecting rod to the wrist pin smaller. That makes less side to side load on the piston skirts.

That way it would flush the benol out of the engine too. If your going to switch to supertechniplat then it probably wouldnt be that big of a deal.

Here you go Dajogejr. You need Klotz Original Techniplate (KL-200) for your purge oil. It doesnt have caster oil in it so it would be good to use as a purge oil. Super Techinplate must be Original Techniplate with 20% Benol Caster Oil. Klotz Original Techniplate Tech Sheet LINK josh

V force 3's work good for everything. Banshee with pipes all the way up to full drag machines. They all usually have V Force reeds. V Force 2's are older and are not made any more.

Most people that run straight race fuel or methanol shoot for 175-185 ball park.

Yep :thumbsup: Talk with Noss Machine. He cut me a custom set of domes after I had given him a squish clearance. They are right on. Mine were for a 4mill stock cylinder running blaster pistons.

I think they sell a repair kit for the single petcock's, and they want you to send in the dual ones. They must not feel confident with people fixing the dual outlets. josh

Yea they are the 795 Series Pistons. 795's are not stroker pistons. They are made for a the long rod cranks both stock stroke and stroker. Long rod stock stroke = thow the 795 pistons in and be good to go. Long rod stroker crank = 795 series pistons, and run ethire a 2 mm spacer plate, or run stroker domes. Stock Rod stock stroke = run regular banshee pistons. stock rod, stroker crank = run regular banshee pistons, and ethire a 2 mm spacer plate or stroker domes. josh

Big Dumbass Fine looks to be in order here.

That statement might be true if they were free.

4 mill stroker crank. :biggrin:

Take the bolts out and put teflon tape on them.