jbooker82

Ethanol doent magicly turn in to water. It pulls moisture out of the air. That is how the water gets in to the fuel. The moisture collects on the bottom since fuel floats on water and doesnt mix. Stabil or Star Tron wont keep the ethanol from taking on moisutre. What it does is keep the water from seperating out and it gets run through the engine. That is how it removes water. josh

If your going to run spacers on the front make sure you are getting the Ez fit spacers. You leave the stock studs in, thread on an extended stud, slide the spacer over the longer extended studs, then put the wheel on. Those in that kit look like they are the other style where you knock the studs out and replace them with longer bolts. How do you plan on holding the bolt head while your tighting the nuts? You can't because the break disk and shield is in the way. josh

Sta Bil now makes an ethanol specific version. Called Sta-Bil Marine. Sta-Bil Marine LINK

Yea it says that it works with 2 and 4 cycle engines.

That is something that no one can tell you. It all depends on how you ride. Most people go with a dune / all around port job. Strong top end with a good midrange at the cost of a bottom end. If it was my build I would do the 4 mill crank, and then what ever type of port job.

35's would be better carbs for that engine.

I dump one of those big bottles in my 55 gallon drum of 110 Race Fuel. That way it is always in there. Plus hopefully it will keep my fuel fresh

That doesnt look right to be but I am not an expert. Maybe you have a set of cylinders ported for a 4mill stroker crank. Builders start by lowering the ports about 2 mm because the piston falls down in the cylinder 2 mm farther.

200-300 for an average builder. The top dogs like K&T's drag port is going to be double that.

I bought my 4 mill crank used from Jeff at FAST. Already had a Max load berrings on both sides.

Mx port is bottom end. Woods port has an emphisis on midragne. Dune port is a mid to top end port. Drag port is all top end. What are you looking to do with this banshee. I have a 400cc (66mm bore +4mill stroke) drag ported. I trail ride some times. Yea it isnt the best setup for trails, but I deal with it because I like how it runs when I am out in the opean. The +4 mill stroker crank will help midrage. If your wanting to do one then go for it. I bet a 4 mill woods ported banshee would be fun to ride.

Putting 38mm carbs on the banshee in your sig is going to be a waste of time. If the motor isnt ported you shouldnt even be thinking about going to a larger carb. A carb that big on that motor is going to perform good and it will be a pain to jet.

Just dont use a junk axle with a new hub or a junk hub with a new axle.

Good ported shee will be night and day difference, but you have to remember you can only port your cylinders once. Well you can go from a woods port up to a dune port, to a drag port, but most of the time onece you port for a stock stroke crank you cant really fix the port timings for a 4 mill crank.

I am selling a Hot Cams Stage 3 came for a Yamaha 660 Raptor on ebay. Here is the link Stage 3 Camshaft on Ebay LINK

Is your hub aluminum or steel? If it is aluminum I could see that since it is softer than steel. If it is steel why would it wear one out but not the other?

Yea you need to talk to a builder. Yea you can just thow those parts in and get it to run and fell the power increase. OR you can talk to a builder who has knowledge (not just selling a kit) and have way more power. Dont get me wrong motosport is a good company but when it comes to making horsepower you dont order it out of a cataloge. Jeff af FAST will be cheaper than that kit. You will need these parts. Hot Rods Long Rod Stroker Crank 400-450 from fast. 795 Series pistons Port Job (not required but higly recomended) If you get the port job you cylinders should be ported for the 4mill crank, There for you will not run a spacer plate like that kit has, but you will need domes (cool head) cut for a 4 mill crank.

If you dont replace the axle then your only replacing half the problem. If the splines are worn on the hub then they are also going to be worn on the axle. Sure if you put a bran new hub on there it might take some of the play out. It is kind of the same principle as getting a new chain with old junk sprocket.

A 4 mill is deffinatly worth it especially if you get a set of cylinders that are ported for a 4 mill. I would just go with a hot rod crank from jeff at fast. He has the best price. 400-450 I believe. Plus he can put a max load, or tz berring on it for you if you like.

Maxis needs to make an I Razr 2. Same tread patter, with knobs as tall as the Razr 2's

I had a set of t5's on my stock cylinder 400cc (66mm Bore +4mill crank) Drag ported. I have more mid range now that I have CPI's than I had with my t5's. I went with CPI's because they are supose to come on a sooner, than shearer's. Kind of hard to describe. It is a drag pipe but not the top dog.

That is what mine came with :thumbsup:

There was a guy selling a set of stock cylinders Drag Ported by K&T for a 4 mill crank. You could probably pick them up for what you would pay to have somebody report the cylinders you have now. I am sure a K&T Drag Ported 4 mill would haul the mail. When I did my 4 mill I found a set of Patriot Racing 4 mill cylinders that needed resleeved. Got them for 100 bucks. Sent them back to Patriot Racing and them Re Sleeved with 66-68mm (400cc-421cc) I got a little under 500 in the cylinders. Sure I could have gotten a cub, but 4 strokes kind of expect to be betten by a cub. They kind of give you once over if you are runnig a stock cylinder.

#1 Couple of heat cycles. Next and most important step. #2 Check to make sure the Head, and Cylinder nuts are still tight #3 Take it easy for 5 gallons #4 Check the Head, and Cylinder nuts. #5 Ride it josh

You might check the carb boots for cracks. They could be cracked and leaking air. That would cause a lean condition, and cause over heating.