jbooker82

$290 Plus you will need to pay for a drum charge. That charge is refunded when you turn the barrel back in. Sounds like a lot for fuel but you 1 to 1.5 barrels will last me a year, and you dont have to worry about getting fuel cause you already have it.

Put 2 bolts through it and you will be good to go again.

Turbo Blue 110 would be the same octane as I am running. I just get my fuel by the 55 gallon drum. That way I always have plenty.

I had them fliped on my raptor and noticed it was way harder to steer and had bump steer. On my banshee they are not filiped but douglass wheels that are off set that way and they steer like a dream with no bump steer. Maybe the banshee's suspension is different. I would say go for it. If you get a flush mount valve stem kit and put those in then you wont have to drill new valve stem holes.

Depends on what your looking for. Tires= Rocky Mountain cheapest price and free shipping on orders over $99.

Rocketboy's Proflile. He might have started a new screen name a month or so a go. flotek's profile LINK Ethire way I have herd that he does a good job. Lot of people have had him lighten flywheels. :thumbsup: josh

It depends on how the fuel's octane is rated at. I run Citgo 110 on 185-190 PSI drag ported 4mill stock cylinders. It has a Motor octane of 105 and a Research octane of 115. The motor octane is what counts. Ever see the octane symbol on the pums (R+M)/2. That is how pump fuel is rated. It is the average between Reaseach and Motor octane.

Rocket Boy is flow tech I believe.

Do you run a red premix. Any octane boosters, leaded race fuel?

Wrist pin berrings :biggrin:

I probably would because castor oil gets gummy when left standing. It would be ok in the tank but when the carbs dry up from sitting that is where the gum starts to form.

927 is a caster oil that is why it seperates out, Just like benol. Supertechiniplate has some benol caster oil in it but it is also 80 percent synthetic oil.

There web page says that is could seperate if mixed with low specific gravity race fuel or when used at 35 deg. So I would say yea. Caster 927 LINK josh

Acording to Klotz's tech sheet it stays in suspension. It doesnt seperate out. Supertechniplate Tech Sheet LINK Benol is the oil that seperates out at low temperatures. That is why it says do not use blow 35deg. Benol Tech Sheet LINK

927 is a pretty dirty buning oil compaird to others out there. It is or has caster oil in it and it burns dirty. Try running a synthetic that advertise being smokless.

Packing isnt intended to be an oil rag. It is to absorb sound. If your blowing oil out get a cleaner burning oil and mix it leaner or deal with the oil. If your running a quart of oil in 8 gallons of gas where do you think that quart of oil is going to endup after burning 8 gallons of gas?

That is exactly what my raptor 660 does. If you dont check the oil when it is hot, and you fill it up to make it at the full line. Next time you check it after riding when it is hot it will puke out the dip stick hole. It is real picky.

If it is cold you you might have to pull both choaks to get it to start. In the winter I have to pull both of them on my PWK's. You really need to get a carb sync gauge from fast. You use it to gauge how much air each carb is pulling in at idle. That way you can adjust both Idles to pull the same amount of air. Then you give it a litte throttle and keep it steady ( I just adjust all the slack out of the cabe) Then you check the carbs with the gauge again, and adjust the carb tops untill they read the same from carb to carb. That makes sure that the cable is synced. So both carbs opean up at the same time, the same amount. josh

1 day left.

Run 32:1. That Saber 100:1 is ment for weedwackers, and blowers. The kind of motor you throw away when it is shot.

That doesnt matter. The banshee fires at both top dead center and bottom dead center. Both spark plugs fire at the same time.

what banshee man said except you want CEK needles with PJ's. Wes is the man with PJ's he got me going when I was running them.

Why can't you apply for a vin number. I am sure it would be the same process as if you buil your own custom chopper.

Just make sure you dont put any side to side pressure while tapping the threads. A tap is super hard, but super brittle. I have had some taps shatter like glass. Since your threading aluminum it shouldnt be a problem because aluminum is soft. josh

I wouldnt get the UPP boots. They are just larger carb boots and mount up like the stock carbs. the bottom bolt on the LH carb will hit on the clutch arm with those boots. You could have the bowl welded. I would get a boss racing or an intake like it. They have a built in crossover tube and they move the carbs up and back a little so they dont hit on the clutch arm. You can keep the drain bolt. That way to swap mains you just take a 17mm plug out of the carb bowl instead of having to take the whole bowl off. here is my boss intake with PJ's and PWK's josh