jbooker82

No. The dump tubes(part that the needle slided up and down in) in keihin PWK's is non replaceable. Once it as been drilled for methanol it cant be replaced.

I would get the 20x10x10 8 paddles too. The shorter tire will be better for just messing around. 22's will be to tall and they will want to roll instead of slide, and they will kill power.

I would use a raptor over a banshee. Look at the frame there is much more room to stuff a taller engine in. Look at locogato11283's Loco's Raptor

Grease up the bores and put them in storage. I woudlnt port them now until your sure what your going to build. I would go 4 mill for sure, but the type of porting who knows until you start building something. I got 3 sets of cylinders in storage. 1 set of 64mm bore no porting 1 set of 65mm bore no porting 1 set of 66mm bore no porting but junk bore. (Big Bore Sleeve possibility)

Yep if you want to run a snow machine engine and you want to have a manual gear box like the banshee then you need to have some body weld a banshee case, to part of the snow machine's engine case. It is going to cost a lot. You could get a set of billit cases from Matoon Machine. $2400 for the tripple.

Smooth and easy because I run Jeff's springs. :biggrin: I also got the metal idle screws, and taller adjusters to make sure I could hit WOT.

Now jeff just needs to carry this finger adjustable air screw for PWK carbs. RB sells them for 20 bucks apice. That seems kind of steep since you have to buy 2 of them. PWK air screw LINK

If he has no power hopfully he got his tub drained and winterized with RV antifreez. :thumbsup:

You might check the stator out. Get a manual and see what the specs are for the stator.

Here is his list of stuff for sale now. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZthehulajay He doenst have any listed now. I got 6 for 10-20 bucks. I am sure if you would ask he would put together something for you. josh

I bought 6 base gaskets from a guy on ebay that cuts them. Paid 10-15 for the 6 gaskets. Doesnt really get any cheaper than that. I woulnd buy a gasket kit every time you need a couple of base gaskets. josh

You might have a problem selling it. Everybody is paranoid about rickystator's being junk. If you buy one from rs then you at least have a 1 yr warrenty. If they buy it from you and 6 months down the road and it craps out they are SOL.

Why would you need a gasket like that. Paper ones are fine. Cascade does sell one that has a thin layer of steel in it. It is one big gasket for both cylinders. The thicker the gasket the lower the compression, and the bigger squish your going to have.

Get a shot of the exhaust port looking from the top of the cylinder. Might even measure the port hight with a calipar.

It helps ballance the motor's intake of air. That way one cylinder isnt pulling more air and fuel. It helps make up for your carbs not being 100% in sync.

I dont know with the floats. Put the carbs on and hook the fuel up and see if fuel comes out of the hose on the carb bowl. If it does then the float hight is set wrong. You should be able to use the carbs that way cause people have ran them that way. Probably not a bad idea if your going to be using the stock petcock and go for wot blast down long straighaways. It is the cheaper solution instead of buying bigger billit fuel bowls. Maybe some body on here that has done this modd will chime in. josh

I am not for sure if it affects jetting. I have never done that mod just herd about it. I run a dual outlet petcock on my tank. For jetting start out at what ever your builder recomended. If you have nothign to go by then here is a start. 165 main CEL needle on the middle clip Pilot 50 or 48 with the air screw turned 2 turns out. You should get a sync tool so you can have the idle screws in sync and the throttle cable in sync. josh

They make sure the crank is still in phase. When one piston is at top dead center the other is at bottom dead center. The crank is just pressed together so it can twist a little and get out of phase. So they true it up and then weld the crank pins to the webs so it cant slip out of phase. josh

A float was removed so the bowl would hold more fuel. As for the jetting they would be the same size jet, just different brand. Kehin jets will have a K emblem on them that is how you know if you got real keihin jets. josh

Nothing to get 2 upset over. Looks liek they cut a float off so the bowl would hold more fuel. If you dont like the idea you can always get a couple replacements. josh

That chain I posted is 11mm six-sided, chain links made of triple heated boron manganese steel for ultimate strength. And cost $130 for a 5 foot chain.

I am no airbrush pro. I use mine to paint some RC Car boddies. A good desent air brush is going to cost 100 bucks. You will want a double action one. That means you push down on the knob to control the air flow, and you pull back on the knob to flow paint. Dont get a cheapie that you just push and paint like a can of spray paint. This one would be a desent one. Paasche VLST Pro Air Brush LINK

Shoot a little carb cleaner in each plug hole and put plugs in and fire it up. If I let mine sit for a lttle bit and it is cold it only starts up on one cylinder. A little snap of the throttle brings both cylinders on line.

1/2 throttle would be the needle. Are you sure you dont have an air leak. They will cause a high lingering idle.

I just get my fuel from a couple local guys. Your close to nashville so there has to be somebody there that sells race fuel by the drum. Start by asking around at your local speed shops. Turbo Blue is a good fuel too. Does that Carquest Sell it by the drum? Turbo Blue is a 110 octane leaded race fuel. So it would be good to go. I use regular Citgo Citgo Race Fuel LINK I run The Standard fuel if I am burning Sunoco Sunoco Traditional Race Fuel LINK VP is the most expensive fuel. I have run VP Red. It is one of there cheaper fuels but is still more expensive than the other two. The make a brew for about anything. VP Race Fuel LINK Turbo Blue Race Fuel Turbo Blue Race Fuel LINK