jbooker82

That is all I was saying. If he is going to go the reed spacer route put it inbtween the cylinder and reed because it would have a bigger pressure pulse. Dirlling the cylinder would be the best way to go though. You could always put a threaded pluge in it if you decided you didnt want to run alky any more.

If that is the case then people need to say where they bought there crappy chrome pipes from. I would think CPI would help in that too because it is kind of bad rep for CPI.

I would grind or cut the excess off the threaded barb flush with the inside of the reed spacer though.

If your vaccuum line is drilled in to the cylinder then isnt it exposed to neg and pos pressure? I know you dont have to have the pos pressure but I was just figuring it would pump better because it would cause the rubber diaphram to move back and fourth more, pumping more fuel.

Stabil also makes an engine foging oil for long periods of storage.

Try this setup I run it on my PWK 33's with the mods in my sig. Main 165 Pilot 48 Needle CEL on the middle clip Air screws started out at 2 turns out.

Look and see if you can find a boiler wire brush. It should look like a bottle brush that you use to do the dishes. They come in various lenghts.

You should go a head and order them. That way your in line. I had mine on order for a month before I got them. I dont think they will save you some since there is a line of people that have alread payed. Yea deffinatly get a port job. Your shee will be a totaly different animal.

You will need larger carbs, probably 35's Cpi or Shearer Pipes at least a 4 swing arm

I got a prodesign one because it looks like it has bigger end tanks. It also has big oval tubes. josh

There is only vaccuum when the motor draws air in if you put it inbetween the carb and reeds. If you put them inbetween the cylinders and reeds there is going to be greater pressure differences and I would emagine the pump would pump better, because the pump would be subjected to neg and pos pressure. The pump really doenst need to have good flow of vaccuum. It just needs pressure changes to force the diaphram back and fourth.

Yea there chrome is worth the extra price. Like firehead said, cpi and shearer have had problems with the chrome peeling off. T5's and T6's come with good chrome from toomey. That is where I got my CPI's just for that reason. Good Chrome

I ran my banshee at 155 psi with timing set at +4 deg on 91 octane fuel on a non welded crank. If your going to be running straight race fuel and have a compression of 185 then I would highly recomend welding the crank. Yea if you want to pull the crank out and have it tured and welded it is good to do but not a must.

I run the sand stars all around on my Raptor 660. On my banshee 20X10X10 9 paddle extreems with sand stars in the front. I like the sand stars because they are dual rib in the front. The ribs are angled out a little so when you turn they are pushed back sraight. They are going to be the best turning front sand tire. They are like rudders in the sand.

A stroker crank makes the distance from the center of the crank shaft to the center of the big end of the crank shaft longer. If you have a tight bolt that you cant get with a normal wrench. So you go get a pice of pipe or cheater to make the wrench longer and the bolt comes appart easly. That is the same think. By making that distance greater it gives the pistons more leverage. The 4 mill stroker allows the piston to fall 2mm down in to the cylinder and it goes up 2mm more than the stock stroke crank. That increases displacement. The 4 mill is the most popular because you can drop it right in. You dont have to have the cases trenched to clear the conecting rods. A stroker crank is most noticable in the mid range. It helps add torque.

I got a mod quad hide a key and the thing didnt fit. It wasnt wide engough. My gas tank bolts on with out any problems so I know the frame is spread. I ended up just using a pice of aluminum and putting in 2 toggle switches to run my 4 trail tech lights. I left the key on the handle bars and put a kill switch on. josh.

Here are your measurements. Gasket surface to the end of the cast cover is 3.5 inches Gasket surface to the outside of the lexan is 4.5 inches The billit ring is aproximatley .75 inches thick with a .25 inch thick lexan cover = total thickness 1 inch Bottom of the Billit ring is 6.34 inches in diameter. Top of the ring (lexan) is 5 in 5/16th's My cover is Direct Drives Die Cast cover. You dont have to weld on any exension because they make a completly bran new cover that is extended. Then The billit ring bolts on to that cover. There is a groove machined in to the cast cover for an oring seal. There is also an oring seal inbetween the billit ring and lexan cover. I had to grind a little off the foot peg so it wouldnt hit the billit ring. You can just extend the cover straight out because it would hit the foot peg.

all you would have to do is run a belt off the flywheel. Cut the center hub out of a pully and make the pully fit around the hub of the flywheel. Weld it on. There is your drive setup.

Any parts store should have it. Napa sells permitex stuff. If they dont have it on hand they should be able to get it for you in a couple of days. I woulnt count on it holding forever. It will just buy you some time. Look on ebay for a set of junk parts carbs. Or just upgrade to some PWK 28's or 30 OKO's.

I belive they use a Lexan Plastic for the window. I can get you a measurement in a second. I will just measure from the gasket surface between the engine and cover to the inside lexan surface. I Had to grind a little material off the foot peg. josh

yamaha doesnt sell just the carb bowl. ab epoxy, jbweld, quick steel it is all prety much the same stuff. I used it to repair a crack in my raptors carb bowl. It would hold for a while but it eventualy will soften up and come loose. Permitex makes this gas tank repair stuff. It is like quick steel, the epoxy puddy that you kneed to mix it. That would be your best bet since it is supose to hold up to gasoline. Permitex gas tank repair

Yep been there those springs are weak and they will break. I have some of those raven swivel springs from rockymountain on my pipes now. They are real heavy duity and one end swivles for easier installation. josh

I have never herd of that type of carb. Do you have a link to it some where on the net to explain how it works or what it does. By the way you might want to turn your caps lock off because when you type in all capital letters it means your yelling. josh

It might but that carb is not really intended to be on a 2 stroke. It has an accelerator pump that squirts fuel in to the engine when you gas it quick. That accelerator pump is a diaphram and it would brobably get gumed up after a while since your banshee has oil in the gas.