jbooker82

You have the wrong setup for drag racing. If the Zilla is drag ported I would say the race is over before it began. Guess you will just have to race him to see how it comes out.

I would say your pretty much at your max compression on pump gas. If you wanted to step up to race fuel 185 psi and iginition timing of 6-8 deg. I ran 150 psi on 19cc's I thought it might be low for the dome size. I never got to check the squish before I switched cylinders and added a 4 mill crank. I dont know what you can run on av gas. If your going to go through the hassle of buying special gas just get the real deal. Leaded fuel is fine. I run Citgo 110, or Sunoco Standard 110. I have also ran VP Red (105 motor octane) on 185 PSI, +7 deg timing on my stock cylinder 4mill. VP fuel is way more expensive than the other race fuels out there. josh

Yes you can. Have your stock cylinders ported for a 4 mill crank. Drop in a long rod stroker crank with 795 series pistons Get a set of domes from Noss Machine that are made (cut) for the 4 mill crank.

A little oil is normal. That is what keeps the crank from siezing.

I tried 4 35w bulbs. I does the same thing. It never really got bright above 6k rpm. It was bright when I first put the new stator on now they are dim. I also have the RS flywheel, and Regulator. It is kind of strange that it was bright at fist now they are dim. I cant get 12 volts of power with them all on.

Did you try switching plug wires around to see if the problem moved to the other side? Cracked Reed?

I trimmed the excess off the nology coil side so it looks like a bracket instead of a pice of anlge aluminum.

I used a pice of angle aluminum. Bolt the coil to one side and the other side bolts to the frame. That way the coil hangs like the stock one.

Klotz Supertechniplate here. It is a good oil 80% Synthetic oil with 20% Benol Caster Oil.

Modquad are Pirates. They copy other stuff that somebody else already designed. And they dont make very good copies.

I run 6HD springs in my raptor 660. I have the stock perch with those Moose levers with the rubber grips on the front. It pulls easier than the stock lever and stock perch with normal springs. ASV C5 Pro lever and pearch is a sweet setup. Might look on ebay for new referbished ones to save some cash.

You could probably get copper washers to put under the head's nuts. That would help keep antifreeze from leaking if you used all one pice acorne nuts.

I use Vasoline because it melts the first time you get the motor up to temp. That way it doesnt build up. I put a little inbetween my thumb and finger and pull the oring through it. Do that to all the o rings except for the the 10 little ones that around the studs.

Or just pull the cylinder drain plug out of each cylinder

Did you use chassis ground when you had it hooked up to the orange coil wire? If so then just splice the teather switch in to the black with white stripe wire that goes to the handle bar (thumb kill) switch. Then the other wire on the theather switch just goes to ground. All the stock thumb switch does is gound the black white strip wire to kill the engine. If you just splice the teather switch and still have the thumb switch hooked you can use both to shut your banshee down.

You dont really want to opean up the piston windows. It can add a hp or 2 but it is not worth the gain because it will weaken the piston skirts. A broken skirt can wreck a cylinder.

if you ever neeed to replace the rubbers they are 10-15 bucks from denniskirk.

I dont have any but are they for Fatties or SST's because they are different. SST's have shorter stinger tubes

You do. DC Conversion LINK

If you get a Boss Racing Intake you wont need reed spacers. It moves the carbs up and back a little so it wont rub. It also has a built in crossover tube so there isnt one in the way.

If it were my bike and it was just piped i would just use all 6 stock spring. FZR 1000 fibers (i belive that is what there kit usese) with stock springs would be plenty for a piped banshee.

If I wasnt on a PSP in a motel i would post a pic.

I ran 155 with 4 deg of timing on 91. If ur running BB domes ur compression will be a little lower than with standard domes.

Regular domes have a groove for the oring. Big Bore domes dont have the outside lip that makes the groove on the regular domes. BB just have the oring go around a lip, there is no groove.

cant he send it in to see if it needs calibrated?