jbooker82

Use some vasoline on the o rings to hold them in place while your putting it on. I usually set the domes on each cylinder in the right location then slide the shell down on top of them. That way your not trying to hold the domes in the shell and sliding the shell down over the studs.

I just buy a couple Base gaskets, and reed gaskets from a guy on ebay. He cuts his own. Those are the only two gaskets you really need if you do a top end, unless you need a head gasket. I run a cool head.

Do the rubbers come with it?

That is kind of wierd. 1.5 probably means 1.5mm over stock wich would be 65.50mm. Are they forged? Any brad on the box. When I did my 4 mill on my raptor 660R it came with a CP piston. CP is a very good brand. I think the box was black with CP in blue. josh

Wonder what happend. Maybe you just lucked out and it started to destroy its self as you were parking after a ride.

I am running his Race Gas 4 mill domes in my cool head. Compression is right on at 185 PSI. :thumbsup:

I am sure those hot rod pistons are relabled wiseco 795 sereis pistons. What is the number on the top of the piston? If it is a wiseco part number should be 795M6550 for 65.50mm. I would return the the gasket kit with the tick plate and get a noss head with stroker domes. Then you just use normal gaskets. The reason why your kit was 70 bucks is because of that spacer plate.

If your not worried about money then do the 4 mill long rod stroker. You will need 795 series pistons, and a cool head with stoker domes. Or you can run the spacer plate. The cool head with stroker domes is the better way to go. You really should get your cylinders ported. That really wakes up the banshee. Your stock carbs with bigger jets would be fine on a 4mill ported stock cylinder motor. You can get the port job taylored to how you ride your banshee. Trail port job, play port, dune port, or drag port job. I would probably get a dune port job because the 4 mill crank will make up for the loss of bottome end that the dune port takes away. You will gain more top end out of the deal too. To run a 4mill long rod crank in a 68mm cub cylinder you use 68mm yamah blaster pistons. Banshee pistons are only avalable up to 66mm. They make cub cylinders for different cranks. If you get a stock stroke cub cylinder get the 65mm bore. That way you can run normal 65mm basnhee pistons. If you get the cub cylinder made for the 4 mill crank get the 68mm bore one that way you just run 68mm blaster pistons on a 4 mill long rod crank. With the 4 mill cylinder you dont have to machine anything or have special stroker domes in a cool head because the cylinder is made taller to accomidate the 4 mill stroke, you do need big bore domes though. A cub is a drag ported cylinder. You really should run at least 35mm carbs, and CPI or Shearer Pipes. It would run ok with stock carb, and your FMF pipes but it would be way under powered for a cub, but still faster than your current non ported stock cylinders.

Yea you will need to rejet the carbs. I dont know how the T6's will do with the stroker. Some people will tell you that the 6's are not as good as the T5's. I wouldnt let that stop you from doing the 4 mill. Later on down the road you can always try a different pipe. josh

Noss Machine's web page LINK Telephone 918-358-3804 FAX 918-358-3923 Postal address Rt. 1, Box 560 Hominy, OK 74035 Electronic mail General Information: dlnoss@nossmachine.com Dave is also a member on here it is best to call him but his user name is dlnoss. josh

www.bikebandit.com has them for 40 for both left and right. I spend 350-400 for all new OEM decals to trun my 97 banshee in to a look a like 2006 LE Black with Purple Flames.

You can get that part new from Jeff at Fast for 30 bucks Clutch Hub from Fast LINK

The pistons have the wrist pin moved up 5mm closer to the top of the piston. That is because the stock stroke long rod crank, and the 4 mill long rod crank have conecting rods that are 115mm long. 5mm longer than stock. So if your installing a stock stroke long rod crank you need the 795 series pisons (long rod pistons). That is it throw the motor together. If your intalling a 4mill long rod crank you need the 795 series pistons (long rod pistons), and you need to have the head rechambered, buy a cool head with stroker domes, or run the spacer plate under the cylinders. This is because the 4mill crank allows the pistons to fall 2mm farther down in to the cylinder, and raise up 2mm farther out of the cylinder. If your getting your jugs ported then have them ported to run no spacer plate, and get a noos head with stroker domes. That is the best way to install a 4 mill crank. josh

Go with the noss head. You wont have to do any modds to the head as long as you get some stroker domes. Call and talk to Dave the owner of noss machine. Tell him your building a 4 mill stroker, what altitude your at, and what kind of fuel you want to run, and he will make a set of domes for you. He has been making cool heads for a while and knows what he is doing. Banshee HQ members get 10% off too. You can run your stock carbs, reeds, and intakes with the 4 mill. It shouldnt be aprobem. I would deffinatly get it ported while you have it appart. That will really bring your banshee to life. You migt aslo tell dave noss what type of port job you plan on getting. That has an effect on compression as well. josh

They are not really stroker pistons. You use the same piston for a stock stroke long rod crank.

Give the clutch a little flick and your on the pipe.

Never Raced HAHA

Try using a heat gun. Bake it off.

Go back and read the first 5 post again. #1 Street shee = Should I do it? #2 Texas = Yea #3 Dave I = Dont Worry about it. #4 Dajo = Agrees with Dave I #5 Street Shee = I am going to do it any way. So How is Dave I's coment wrong? "I always love streetshee's post.... Ask a question then tell everyone they are wrong and do what you want to do anyway. This adds great value to the HQ database."

That is what nerf bars are for.

The will respond pretty well to most port jobs too. If you had plans of getting a strong dune port or drag port then I would recomend CPI's or Shearers.

When I was running T5's with PWK 33's Boss racing intake, I had to have the LH carb top tilted in a little to clear the pipe. I also had to use a cascade heat wrap on the LH singer tube so I wouldnt melt my outer wear. I now have cpi's and they go out a round the carb a little. I still run the heat wrap on the LH stinger tube so I dont melt an outerwear. Those heat wraps insulate good enough that my air filter lays against it. Are your POD filters straight or angled flange. I have 10 deg angle flanges on mine as well. Here are some pics.

Yea cub cylinder with a 2 in to 1 carb and a moto fast 2 in to 1 exhaust. :thumbsup: You buy a pipe that matches the port work that you have done to the cylinders. I had a MX Port with T5's it ran awesome. Built a Patiriot Racing Drag ported 4 mill stock cylinders that I ran with my T5's Ran 10 times better than the mx port. I switched to cpi's and it runs way better. The t5's made that motor run run like crap compaired to CPI's. You cant detune a drag port with a concervitave pipe. If you try it you will probably find your self getting beat by banshee's that are setup better.

How can it be a 2 stroke if it fires 3 times for every 1 revolution on 1 rotor. Plus isnt a stroke a liner motion vs a rotary motion.

I have JT sprockets with an RK GB520XSO chain.