jbooker82

Yea its not a good idea. I would recomend against it as well.

I peeled the sticker off my gforce axle. The chrome came with it. I wouldn't call that "show chrome".

Why would the seller want to be stuck with one gear out of a pair. If you want to buy one gear then buy a pair. Sell the other gear yourself.

Pulled Pork Sandwich is the best.

I think they are different but sell the same stuff from China.

Cam have you ran them with a direct drive lockup cover?

You could always use a foam wrap on a K&N filter. That would keep most stuff from getting to the K&N with out severly restricting the flow of the K&N.

If there is no kind of seal I would use a small bead of silicone.

I would use s small bead of silicone. The PD plate in my raptors air box had a foam seal. I just used a little grease on it.

Got to give ya a hard time.

I also wonder when R.S. will become a Site Sponcer, and then this thread magically dissappears.

So then the next two 200 watt stators with my stock flywheel had a Top End running issue. It just ran crusty on the top end. I chased jetting all over the place but it wouldnt go away. I bought a used OEM stator, whent back to my original jetting and the problem went away. I did get my money back for the flywheel, and the 200 Watt stator so I was only out my time, and a GOOD 200 watt Ricky Stator. I ended up buying a Bran New $350 dollar OEM Yamaha Stator to keep as a back up.

I have had 3 Ricky Stators. One of them was on my Banshee when I got it. It ran fine had no problems. The owner siad it had been replaced several years before I bough it. I figured it was a good one made before they started going down hill. Well I made the mistake of buying a R.S. Flywheel to get a little brighter lights. The rivits loosened up or were never tight. Eventually one broke, stuck to the flywheel / pickup coil and when the node came around it destroyed the pickup. I painted the flywheel black before I put it on. You can see the rust / dust coming out of the rivits, and where the loose rivit bounced around inside the stator cover.

VHT engine paint. Let it fully dry then cure it in the oven

Sst are different headers or expansion chambers. They are longer so the silencer tubes need to be shorter. That is why they are different. The Fatties and Gnarlys use the same silencer.

Just make sure you get the right ones. There are silencers that are made for FMF SST's and they are differnt from other FMF silencers.

That is what I would do as well. FMF's turbine core is a real good spark arrestor. If you get The Q then you get a spark arrested silencer that will meet the 96db limit as well. http://www.fmfracing.com/Products/ATV/113

I was going to say get them from Cascade Innovations but they dont have them or CPI's on their web page. Wonder if they got tired of fixing Shearer's and CPI's screw ups and it cost them to much money for replating.

A lot of it depends on your weight. If you not a big guy then you can get away with giving up a little more midrange to gain top end. I am 250 lbs and didnt like my 4mill 66mm bore patriot racing drag port in the trails. It usually just lifted the front wheels up and launched up and over berms.

I got rid of UPPs because I didn't like the plug hanging up on the clutch arm. I would buy a boss intake again. The rubber boots don't crack they get cut by over tightening the hose clamp. It is worse when you spill fuel on them because it softens them up, making it even easier to do.

It doesnt really keep the motor running cooler. The main purpose is to allow you to change compression ratio by just swaping out the inserts, which are called domes. I prefer a 2 piece head because they allow you to visually conferm that the domes are properly lined up before you put the top cover on. You set the domes on each cylinder, then slide the outer shell on, the the top cover. The Noss Machine head is a good 2 piece head. There are a couple site sponcers who sell noss heads with thier logo. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=386

It just pushed a little out. It will suck air back in when it cools down. If you would have kept the over flow it would have sucked coolant back in. I run the overflow because it keeps the radiator topped off.

I run the ones with a T because there is enough crap running to the handle bars already.

I guess I don't have to run run out of gas before I know that I need to fill up.