jbooker82

Gunk Engine Bright. Gets all the stuff of. Just get an old bucket and let it soak in there. Then just brush it down with a parts cleaner brush. Then just wash it off with some water. Let dry and then lube.

Just as long as you get a good seal so the carb is pulling all the air through the gauge. For doing the mid range sync like wes said you need to keep the thumb throttle held exactly the same. Take the cover off of the thumb throttle and find a small 1/4 in drive socket to wedge between the throttle housing and lever where the cable hooks up to. That way you a good consistant reading.

Yep Boss Racing Intake. Moves the carbs up and back. Way better option than reed spacers.

What modle and prices do you have? I didnt see any on your web page. josh

The ez out I used to drill my raptor's broken exhaust stud out worked pretty slick. It has a LH spade bit on the tip. You drill so far in with it. Then you spin a little coller down and push it in to the hole. When you start dirlling again it threads down in there and the bit expands the tip out. EZ Out from Northern Tool LINK

I would get them ported. People Claim that big bore sleeves are junk because they make the transfers smaller. Most of the people that say that dont have 1st hand knowledge. They are just repeating what they read somewhere. Big Bore Sleeves are not the most economical way to make power, but by the sounds of it you already have them installed. #1 It all depends on what type of port job you get. If you get just a play / trail port I would go with T5's. If you get a Dune port I would go with a set of CPI Small Bore pipes. If you get a Drag Port then I would go with Shear's. #2 It again all depends on what port job and pipes. PWK 28mm (30mm OKO's) if your going to be getting a play port. If you get a Dune port then I would run PWK33's. Drag port would run best with at least PWK 35's. #3 A 4 mill crank will add midrange torque. It will make it pull harder. I would recomend one if you have the cash. Crank will run you about 400 from Jeff at FAST racing. Since your at 68mm bore you will need a set of 68mm bore yamaha blaster pistons. You run blaster pistons with a 4 mill long rod crank. You will also need a noss or cool head. Noss machine makes custom domes for 4 mill cranks. Talk with him about the domes. #4. What port job depends on how you want your power delivery. MX port is going to be a bottom end port job. Trail port job is going to have great mid range. Dune port job is going to have a good midrange and rev higher in RPM's over a trail port. Dune port job gives up bottom end to gain top end, but still maintains a good midrange. Then you have Drag port it gives up midrange to gain Ultimate Top End. If it were me I would get a Dune Port job. It still has good midrange and it will allow your banshee to rev out a little more. If you want bottom end then sell your banshee and get a 4 stroke. :biggrin: What builder. Jeff is a great guy to deal with. He is also a very buisy man. You could be with out your cylinders for a couple months waiting in line to have them ported. FloTek, or Kevin Herr @ Herr Jugs Racing are good porters too. They also have a very quick turn around time. (couple of weeks). Usually the better known builder the longer the wait time and the more expensive the price.

Heck I got my 4 mill crank from jeff for 325 used. Low hour, trued and welded, Max load bearing on the stator side, TZ Bearing on the PTO side.

I would say jeff has a better deal. 400 for the crank and 120 for the pistons. So around 520. So that gasket kit that it comes with is going to cost you $160. Plus who uses a gasket kit. Most 4 mills run cut domes so really the only gaskets you need are the clutch cover, and base gaskets.

If you ride your banshee right you dont need to do anything, but who does that. 2 quarts of oil will help but it wont replace was a flat roller berring can do.

There isnt really much to see. All you can see is the outer nut because the main part is behind the clutch pressure plate.

I got the gauge from these guys. They are out of Lapeer, MI so I am sure Dajoger knows them or at least heard about them. JT Temperature Gauge They have 3 different styles. I got the Electric LED Back Light gauge. If you get one Get an electric one. There is a couple of different reasons. #1. If you have to take off the gauge or what ever you mount the gauge in your going to have to drain the coolant with the Mechanical gauge. With the Electrical one you just Unplug the connector. #2 I went through 3 mechanical gauges. (Not from these guys. Just regular automotive gauges) The vibration kills them They will last you a couple of months at best. For the mounting I just used a regular universal bracket that most gauges come with. You know that little loop shaped bracket that you use to mount a guague under the dash of your car. Straighten it out and notch the corners off so it will slip inbetween the bar clamp bolts. Then just sandwich it between bar clamp and steering stem.

What type of intakes did you have when you were running those PWK33's. I fit was a boss racing one you could just swap the rubber carb flanges.

Here is the temp gauge I run. It is an electric one that has the sensor mounted in the top radiator hose.

If you get the ESR gague put it in the radiator hose going from the head to the top of the radiator. You splice it in that hose just right so you can see the gauge through on of the vent holes of the gas tank cover.

Just dont get the Super Cheap Chrome Knock Offs with Power Jets already installed. They look like a Bad Copy of a Bad Copy.

45/48 pilot 155 main. Should get u started. Probably rich.

158

#1 Try turning in the air screws. #2 carbs are probably not in sync.

A good chain will run you 80+ dollars. I wouldnt buy a chain if it doesnt say what brand it is.

It might save you money now to buy that cheap chain but when you figure in the cost of a new set of cases it isnt really cheaper. What are you getting #50 chain from a Tractor Dealer?

I had the cascade ones. After awhile the rubber hose starts to squeez out of the clamp. I know have RIS pipe clamps. They use 4 viton o rings to seal up. They screw down to really clamp down and seal up.

Aluminum only really should be used on a Motorcycle. The only advantage of aluminum is they weigh less. So on a motor cycle that has a rear sprocket the size of a pizza pan they are worth it. On atvs they are smaller so weight savings is minimal. josh

At least a set of pwk33's if not 35's.

i would run keihin pwk 33's. Great middle sized carb.

What type of porting? drag PWK 35's. Dune PWK 33's. Play / Trail PWK 28's or stock carbs. Drag or Dune port will run 10x better with CPI Pipes.