jbooker82

#1 The Banshees Frame isnt tall enough. Your going to have to chop the top frame tube and make it taller. Now the gas tank is going to be way to high. #2 The Banshee isnt the best handling atv. #3 I would Put that motor in a Yamaha Raptor 660R frame if I was you. The frame will allow for much taller engines. josh

Moose Jet Kits are relabled Dynojet Kits.

Yea Frogger is a good guy to get a set from if you want just CPI chrome. If you want great looking chrome and are willing to pay a little extra then get them from Cascade. They get the pipes bare from CPI and have there own chromer do the work. They are really nice looking pipes. That is where I got mine from. CPI's , and Shearer's Chrome has been known to peel and flake off. www.cascadeinnovations.net.

Yea that is what I am saying. Just use the black with white stipe wire to hook up your new kill switch. I know with the dyna CDI's they tell you not to hook up a teather or kill switch in the orange coil wire. It must not be good on the CDI's.

And if any aluminum transfers to the plating you use an acid to wipe the aluminum out.

Why not just wire it up to the black wire with the white stripe. That is what the stock kill switch is hooked to. You ground that wire and it kills the engine.

That is kind of funny since the pistons have a little pin in the ring groove that wont let the rings rotate on the piston.

FMF is a desent exhaust. It isnt the best by some standards, but it is far from the worst. It all depends on your riding style. If I was you I would take the money that your going to spend on changing pipes and buy a Noss Machine head. Up the compression back up that your loosing buy riding at 4500 FT elevation. Also get an adjustable stator plate. That way you can advance the Ignition Timing. They will help gain back some performance that you loose by running at hight altitudes. Then later on if you decide that you still need different pipes you already have the basic modds covered.

Wyoming I am from nebraska and work for the rail road. I take trains to cheyenne. I lay over there for 12 hrs and catch a train back home. You see them guys out riding ATV's with the street bike crowd at night in the summer time.

You dont need luck if you got Big Red on your side. He knows his sfuff. :thumbsup:

well guess you can fix both problems at once while you have the clutch cover off. Coolant is probably getting in to your transmission through the water pump seal. The water pump is in the clutch cover so you can fix that probem on the bench after you take the cover off. Now would be a good time to upgrade to a Pro Design Billit water pump impeller and shaft. I would do New berring, seal, pro design water pump impeller, and proabably even a new plastic gear while I was in there. As for the kick starter not working I bet the Idler gear bushing is shot and it wabled off the shaft. You can get a new bushing washer and E clip from FAST instead of buying the whole gear from yamaha. He would aso have your water pump parts as well.

The Radiator will over boil.

You put the ring in the cylinder and use a piston head to make sure it is square in the bore. Then you use a feeler gauge to measuer the ring end gap.

That sounds about right. 1/2 gallon of engine ice is plent to do 1 banshee I probably have about 1/2 quart left when I am done.

I would say 230 deg F, if he has the sender right by the outlet on the cylinder head. You want it as close to the head to get the hotest reading. On my raptor if you let it sit and Idle in the summer it warms up to 220-225. You go take it for a spin and the temps come right back down to 180 deg. I dont have a TT Vapor, just an ESR Temp gauge right by the head.

I am no expert on decoding engine explosions but it looks like a ring problem. End gap to tight and it bound up, or just plain broke.

I have Equifax. It monitors 3 different credit bueru's. It will send me an email if my ballance increases by a certian amount or percent. I can also lock my credit report so people suposedly cant see it. You just unlock it if your going to be getting something financed.

Did you check piston to cylinder clearance? Ring End gap clearance? Maybe the guy you had bore your cylinders didnt chamfer the ports so a ring caught a port.

I would do the 4 mill again in a heart beat. You should do it now cause once you port your jugs for stock stroke it ususally cant be reported for a 4 mill unless your stock stroke port job was on the concervitave side.

You could always get a boss racing intake and put the nozzles in there. The are thick and should have plenty of room for the install. That way you dont have to drill holes in your jugs.

Try a pair of 152 mains with the needle in the 3rd clip from the top. See how that runs.

What Kind of case saver was it?

If your just needing a spark arrestor I would get a pair of FMF Turbine Core II's for your FMF Fatties. Way better option instead of trying to "Rig" something up.

Do you need a spark arrestor or do you need your banshee to be quieter or both?

Lee should just get in to her account or turn off the sig's then lock the settings.