jbooker82

I wouldn't rely on that for engine lubercation. It is geared for 4 strokes that have a dedicated oiling system. It is to help keep from washing down the engine oil on the cylinder walls.

More rpm always fixes engine problems, or it atleast makes it easier to figure out what needs replacing.

R50 will burn cleaner since it is 100% synthetic instead of Supertechniplate being 80% synthetic 20% Benol Caster oil. R50 has about a 100 deg F higher flash point over Supertechniplate, and it is a thicker viscocisty. Here are the two Tech Sheets. R50 http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=48&submit2=View SuperTechniplate http://www.klotzlube.com/techsheet.asp?ID=44&submit2=View

If your going to refinish the pipes I would decoak them first. You can do it a couple ways. Heat the pipes up with a torch or burn the carbon out.

I have the shift pro kit and it is a bearing. With the easy spring, modded shift star, and shift pro it shifts nice and smooth but it did make neutral harder to find. You get use to it though. I just rev it up and shift to neutral as the rpms are coming down.

If you don't mind buying an actual tool a Mity Vac MV8500 is a nice kit to have. Comes with different size plugs for plugging lines. Brake bleeder cup / kit. The pump can do 30 PSI of pressure or 25 InHg vacuum. It has a gauge and is air tight. I just tested a Trevor Simpson 30.5cc motor that I built for my HPI Baja. It held 10 PSI of pressure for 20 min, and 15 InHg for 20 minutes. No leakage at all from the motor or the pump / gauge. Here is the kit I am talking about. You will still need intake and exhaust plugs of some sort. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mityvac-8500-Silverline-Elite-Hand-Vacuum-PumpTest-Kit-MV8500-Mity-Vac-/330855939448?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item4d088cfd78&vxp=mtr

LH side is a lot closer. You cant see the double welds because I use a cascade heat wrap on the LH stinger tube.

My CPI Standard Bores RH Side has plenty of air filter clearance and only has one weld where it bends

I believe the center one goes on the RH exhaust and the two ouside ones are for the LH side. You can clearly see the one singer has had a melted outerwear, and the LH side hugs the filters.

bag not back.

Or get a real sleeping bag. I have a -10 deg sleeping back and stay nice and warm.

I need to get new ones. My real K&N's are hard as a rock. I think the constant exposure to a little gasoline vapor out the carb drys them out making them hard. That and they are about 5-6 years old.

As for a clutch get a clutch from FAST. Maybe he would throw in 6 new OEM springs instead of the stiff ones if your going to be running a lockup from the get go.

I run the whole direct drive setup. Lockup and 1 piece new cast cover. I like it and would do it all over again. I also just run 6 oem springs. That way I have a light clutch lever. It is a lot stiffer when the rpms are up but I usually dont use the clutch much unless I need to feather it.

Yep any A arm that has Hiem Joints where the arms mount to the frame require adjustment. You dont just bolt them on and go. You have to use a deg finder to measure the angle between the Upper and Lower Ball Joint. Then you go back and turn one joint out to ethre move the ball joint forward or back, changing the angle between the upper and lower ball joint. It is a real pain in the butt to set correctly. Where the LSR's have 2 spacers that go on the top a arm bolt. You ethire put both spacers in front of the a arm, both behind, or one on each side.

Yea I don't like the ASR Heim style caster adjustment eithre. That style of caster is a pain to get set right. I had a set of ASR's for about a month before I got rid of them.

For me a trail motor must have a 4mill crank. You dont have to build it to make all the power on the top end. The 4mill will add midrange torque wich is favorable in the tight trails.

I woudl just call direct drive. They would probably send you one for little to no cost.

Why not? I have had one in my banshee for 6 years with no problem. I dont ride it every day but I would think that after 6 years the problem would have reared it head by now.

I had my baja exhaust pipe coated by www.swaintech.com . TBC-EX White Lightning. It is a real ceramic coating that is a solid and applied in a molten state. Its only available in white and it has a super rough texture. Almost like skate board grip tape or a pumice stone.

I have used VHT Flame Proof clear on my HPI Baja rc exhaust pipes. It held up fine. You want to go with light coats and no runs. If you put it on thick the coating will darken, but it still will be clear.

I would still use a push button kill switch on the bars. I use a honda CR125 kill switch on mine. If you use a togle switch and its not on the bars it might be fun trying to shut it down when your on the back of a run away banshee.

Also make sure your let them dry for a day or two before you install / cure them.

I would lean them up real good then paint them with VHT Flame Proof Clear. Do 2 or 3 light coats. Dont lay it on to thick.

I just didnt know if the foot peg would be to tall or close. I had to round and smooth out my factory foot peg, but I guess I could grind down and round part of the peg that is directly under the cover. Not like I would be standing on it any way.