jbooker82

You should do a compression check. If your at 150 or lower then you can just run Pump 91. If your up in the 180 psi range then you need to run race fuel. It just depends on what the previous owner set it up to run.

I am sure the plastic ones work, I just like to have a metal screw. The taller carb adjusters allow you to take more slack out of the cable. Some times the carbs wont opean all the way. You might not need them on a pair of 33's. I put them on mine though. Do you have a Sync tool. Those work great for setting up the carbs.

If you get the jets from Jeff, might as well get Metal Idle Screws, Taller Carb top adjusters, EZ pull slide springs. The soft springs are nice. :thumbsup:

No because the hr meeter just starts counting hrs when it has electricity. I doesnt have anything to do with the rpm.

Told ya you would like the 4mill. It has more midrange punch doesnt it.

That is how top fuel drag cars run it. Once they take off the starting line the electrodes on the plugs melt off and it just runs like a diesel. When they shut them down they turn the fuel off. Try running some in an old weed wacker or other 2 stroke motor. I sugest one you dont want any more. It will do the same thing. push the kill button and it keeps on running.

2 sparks per 1 rpm. Why not just use the one you have. Those tachs arent ment to be used to tell what rpm your at while riding. They are too small. Try focusing on the small tach while doing a WOT run. They are ment for checking Idle speed. All you have to do is read the RPM it is showing and divide by 2.

What was the other 80%?

You will probably end up at a 150-152 main. That is what I ran when I had a play port with t5's

I would deffinatly go back to the 52's since you have them. Once you get the CEL needles your probably going to need to drop down to a 48. 55's might feel better now since you have a lean needle. You should get some jets from dennis kirk they sell 5 Keihin Mains 160,158,155,152,150 for 23 bucks. Get 2 kits and you will have all the mains you should ever need. Keihin Jet Pack from Dennis Kirk LINK 48 Pilots LINK

It only cost around 500 to put the 02 and up transmission in. Since everyone is scared of the 01's pick one up for cheap and do the upgrade before it goes out. One of my riding buddys has a 01 Raptor with Hot Rods 720cc stroker kit with 39mm fcr's and it is holding together fine.

Step up to a 48 pilot and reset the air screws 2 turns out. If you have less than 1 turn out you need to step up to the next size pilot. If your over 2 turns out then you need to step down 1 size on the pilot. The Keihin Jetting Bible DRI Keihin Jetting Tech Sheet LINK josh

Middle leter is length. C is 36.35, E is 38.15, G is 39.95 Since your maxed out on needle clip postion and you still need it richer you need a shorter needle. One with E being the middle letter. 90% of people running PWK33's and PWK35's run CEL Needles. DEK needles work great in the older PJ34mm carbs. The 160 mains are probaby to rich. Most people run 150-155 range. Pilots are plenty rich too. 48's would be better. Try this setup. Main 155 Needle CEL Middle Clip 48 Pilot Jet Air screw 2 turns out. This is the Keihin Jetting BIBLE DRI Keihin Jetting Tech Sheet LINK josh

You dont have to glow plug it. If you run Methanol on your banshee your part of the way there. I dont think very many people run it because it dont take much to totaly gernade an engine. All the RC car fuel is Nitromethane, Methanol Alachol, and 2 stroke oil. There are guys that drag race Built to the Hill Raptor 660's that run Nitromethane. The NHRA Top Fuel Dragsters they run that fuel too. They just happen to run 90% Nitromethane, 10% Methanol.

You could make one out of some copper pipe and 2 elbow. Sodler them up and you would be good to go.

Klotz Techniplate R50 and Klotz Supertechinplate are 2 different oils. R50 doesnt mix, Supertechniplate does. Supertechniplate Tech LINK Techniplate R50 Tech LINK So Maxima 927 and Klotz Benol would be about the same thing. 100% Caster Oil. Supertechinplate is 20%caster oil 80% synthetic oil.

There is more to porting than just smoothing things up. It isnt like a port job on a 4 stroke where you just smooth the intake and exhaust ports up. You have to opean up transfer ports at certian angles. Raise the exhaust ports. That changes the intake and exahust Durations. Doing a port job on a 2 stroke is like putting in a cam shaft in to a 4 stroke. The port job is the brain. You wouldnt take a welder to a stock camshaft and make your own "Race Cam" would you?

The extra weight of the boost bottle, bouncing around puts more stress on the ruber intakes. That causes them to crack. The crack causes your banshee to lean out and melt down.

I would trust him with my jugs.

Boost Bottles are now know as Downgrades.

Try a 48 pilot jets. I ran 45's in mine but went back to 48's It starts a lot better with the 48's. I would have to pull both choaks at 50-60 deg. 48's will fire right up with no choak at all.

Dot 3 + 4 keep moisture suspended, while dot 5 wont. So Moisture collects at the lowest point in the breaking system, the bottom of the calipars. Water Boils 212 deg. Minimum Boiling point for Wet Dot 4 is 311 deg. I run Motul DOT 5.1 Non Silicone Base, 100% Synthetic It has the high boiling point like regular silicone base DOT5, but doesnt allow moisture to collect at the bottom of the brake system. Best of both worlds... You can use it in brake systems specifing DOT3, DOT4 or DOT5.1 http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=3359

Hell I dont that with my Stock Cylinders. Dual Pingnel and a stock gutted gas cap.

A set of pipes is going to be your first major mod. Mods like, VForce 3's, Timing Plate, Cool Head, Pod Filters, are what I call Nickle and Dime modds. It takes a few of them to make a dollar. Pipes and Porting are dollar mods. Bottom End - Paul Turner Mids Midragne - DMC's Midrange to Topend - Toomey T5's These 2 pipes shouldnt be put on a stock port engine. They need a STRONG Dune port job at best. Strong Top End - CPI's Ultimate Top End - Shearer's If I was in your shoes and had 1K to play with Here would be my modd list. Pipes to match your Riding style $500-600 Port Job to match your riding style. $300 Throw the head in with the Jugs when you have them ported and have the builder shave it. It will up the compression enough that you can still run Pump Premium fuel. It does the same thing as a cool head only cheaper. Shaved Stock Head $40 Your Banshee will be 10x faster than one that has Pipes and all the "Bolt Ons" Pipes and Porting get you the most HP per Dollar spent. If you send your jugs out to a well known builder your probaby going to have a down time of 3 months while your wating for them to get ported. Plus the port job is going to cost more. These 2 guys do an awesome port job at a great price and have a turn around time of about 2 Weeks. Both guys are members here but I dont know there exact screen names. Kevin Herr - Herr Jugs Racing http://www.herrjugsracing.com/Porting_Motor_packages.html Denny - at FlowTek http://flotek.everything2stroke.com/porting.html josh

Get the raptor, then do the rocket factory 804cc :biggrin: