jbooker82

That is a good Idea. I too have the Honda kill switch. I just used two togle switches mounted to a pice of strap aluminum. The aluminum strap bolts to the back of the fuel tank like a hid a key. The togle switches I got have a ruber cover that goes over the switch to keep water out. josh

They will work just like the stock bulbs. I went with the Piaa bulbs. They make great lights. The bulbs are a great up grade.

Any bennifits or just experimenting?

Those will probably melt because you need Viton High Temp Orings.

Whats up with running a 660 clutch? I have a 660 raptor and the best clutch upgrade for them is the Yamaha GYTR HD clutch. Is the raptors clutch a direct replacement or do you have to do any modds to make it work? josh

I had a set of toomy t5's on my 66mm bore drag ported stock cylinders, with a 4 mill crank. (400cc's) The motor ran great or what I thought was great. Had great top end with not much midrange. I just figured it was a typical drag port. I decided to ditch the t5's since my banshee didnt have any midrange. I got a set of cpi small bore inframe pipes. It helped impove the midrange but it really ran hard on the top end. 10x better than with t5's. There really isnt any sence in putting a pipe on a cub to try to FORCE it to have better midrange. All that will accomplish is a crappy midrange and top end. The Cub is an agressive drag port right out of the box. CPI's and PWK35's with a Boss Racing Intake. That is what you need. Shearer's have a little harder hit and rev a little higher than the CPI's but since your not 100% drag racing I would go with CPI's josh

You bought the wrong Cylinders for a Strong Midrange. Cub should be ran with CPI's or Shearer's, with no smaller than Dual 35's.

Get it ported then do the carbs. I would go with PWK33's.

Yep Boss Racing intake is the only way to go. I have plenty of room between my 33PWK's and Clutch arm. They also have a built in crossover tube so you dont have to have the external crossover tube.

I had one on my raptor for a week. I couldnt get it right. It would ethire do what yours does or it would slip the clutch because it wouldnt engage all the way. I now have an ASV C5 Pro Pearch and Lever with a Motion Pro Terminator cable.

For Performance wise you could shave the stock flywhee. It will make it rev up or come on the pipe faster, but it will also fall off the pipe faster if you bog it in a corner. I run a Ricky Stator flywheel. I dont know what the weight is compaird to a stock flywheel but it has stronger magnets to help the head lights be brighter at lower RPM's. I have herd of 2 people that had the rivits shear off of them. Ricky stator took care of them though. New flywheel, stator, and timing plate. I havent had any problems. josh

I would say forget the NOS and get a set of drag pipesl, and carbs to match the drag port. Drag Port with FMF = Running like a bag of ass for a drag ported motor.

I am sure with K&T they want to see the money before they talk. I couldnt imagine how many emails they get and never hear back from the ones they do answer.

Now just think if you had a chrome molly steering stem, and massive 1 1/8 in fat bars. They would be ok but that loop would be in worse shape. Lot easier to replace the bars.

What needles are in the carbs? What size pilot jet. When you have the air screw 1 turn or less you need a size smaller pilot. More than 2 turns out you need a leaner pilto jet. With those pipes and no porting you should be at a 155 and I would concider that rich. Probably going to end up around 150-152 josh

I run the duro hookups on my raptor. They are almost Identical to the I razr. The lugs are spaced out a little more. You can get them from rocky mountain and save about 20 bucks a tire over I razrs.

Do you have nerf Bars? Here is how I do it. Take the stator cover off and bolt the nerfs back up. Lay a pice of wood across the nerfs. Get some thing that fits in the small holes and barlys stick it in one of the small flywheel's holes. Dont go in there to far or you risk damaging the stator coils. I use a punch slide in to a hydraulic jack handle. You could grind down a pice of rebar, big philips screw driver. Long 1/4 in rachet extension.

Yea your pointing to the stock slider. It is just a doughnut that spins on the swing arm. Get a replacement that is like the one bansh-eman posted. You want to find one that is split. That way you just cut off the stock one. Then wrap the new one around the swing arm and put the little bolt back in that keeps it all to gether. If you get a solid one then you have to take the swing arm off to install it.

When you take the reed cage out look at the metal bar that goes across the top of the reeds. It will have HIGH or LOW stamped on it. On the high setting the metal bar clamps down a little farther on the reed. Makes the reed a hair shorter so it has a higher tension. When I replaced my petals on my 2's Jeff at fast told me to make sure they are on high tension. He said they wont last on low tension.

Do you have them set on Low Tension or High Tension? Low tension wont last long.

Or you can get a metal Idle Screw from Fast for 5 bucks. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=119

I use cable life. It says that it works on carb slides too.

Most people on here shoot for 150 psi when running pump premium, and 180 psi for running straight race fuel. Inbetween then you need to mix fuels.

I would say your fine with 160 psi. Most builders shoot for 180 psi when running straight race fuel. You start getting over 180 psi that becomes excessive compression.

what switch? I dont think the banshee has a low coolant shutdown.