jbooker82

Sounds good. You could always do the motor now and get the suspension later. Send the head with the top end to have it milld to up the comression. Adjustable timing plate too

Throttle Over Ride System If you release the throttle and carb slide is stuck opean the TORS kills the Ignition. You will need a tors eliminator kit. It comes with the cable, carb caps, and Idle screw kit. You can just unplug everything and leave those big goofy boxes on top of the carbs too. josh

32:1 is plenty of oil an that is the mix that most people run. Others do run 40:1 or even 50:1. I personly wouldnt run any less than 40:1

They look like FMF's to me too. Maybe and old FMF Rev pipe. The are kind of big like a cpi that is why I was thinking the Rev's. Arent Gnarly's smaller in diameter?

I believe they both use the same expansion chamber just different silencer configuration. Then new anodized alien system looks pretty sweet.

Sounds logical to me. Banshee with front tires all the way around.

I will take that bet. I just did a seach for wheels on RMATV. 89 and 90 had the 156 bolt pattern. That is wierd started out normal for 2 years then switched for 2 years then back to normal. So the rear's should fit. josh

You should be able to use the lighting coil on the banshee to power it. There web site says it works with 9-400V AC or DC current.

Try dropping the main a size. Lean feels like you have no power and real zingy. Rich feels rough and spuddering.

I dont think the rear rims will fit. Didnt the first couple years (1987-1990 or so) of the banshee use a 4X156 bolt pattern? Then they changed to the more common 4X115 bolt pattern. The Raptor 350 & 660 (700 I think), YFZ450, Warrior, 1991 and on Banshee all use the same rear bolt pattern. I would get a set of banshee hubs that are 4x115 then you can ethire switch hubs to run the raptor tires, or get new wheels so your not switching hubs and you would have a more common bolt pattern. josh

Here are some pics. Like I said you the lexan would work but should be reaplaced. There are a few cracks around the bolt holes. The cracks start at the bot hole and goes out to the edge, not inward to cause a leak so it would work. I tried to get a pic (last Pic)

When you buy them from Cascade your paying for the High Quality Chrome Finish. That way you dont have to worry about your "Show Chrome" peeling. Since when is peeling bubbly dull chrome considered Show Chrome anyway?

VP = Very Pricey You best bet is probably 110 or C12 those are going to be the most common that people will sell. VP Red would be another. I run Sunoco Standard 110 it is a heck of a lot cheaper than VP.

I got a Direct Drive lockup cover ring. This is just the billit ring that bolts to the cover. It has a clear lexan that would work but probably should be replaced. It is the 6 bolt designe. 6 bolts that hold it to the cover, and 6 bolts hold the lexan to the ring. 50 bucks shipped. josh

Getting rid of some banshee parts that I no longer need Stock Cylinders, Stock port 65mm ( I believe) will need bored. 150 Shipped Stock Cylinders that need resleeved. Be a good canditate for doing a big bore kit so you dont punch out the cylinders you alread have. Make an offer. josh

They are for running a lockup clutch. They stick out a little farther so they will cear the lockup. You can run a cover with out running a lockup. The cover is the the most expensive part. The actual lockup is 100 bucks or so. It also allows you to chang the clutch with out taking the whole cover off, and having to drain the antifreeze. There are several places that you can get them from. Most of them mill of the top of the stock clutch cover and weld, or epoxy on an extension ring. Direct Drive makes a all new die cast cover. It is the way to go because then you dont have to worry about a weld leaking or the epoxy leaking. Plus the direct drive cover also has a thicker area around the kick starter. Make sure you get the one with a 12 bolt lexan. The 6 bolt ones tend to warp and leak after time. http://www.directdrivecnc.net/banqcm.html Here is my powdercoated cover.

These temps are water temps measured right at the outlet of the cylinder head. When it is hot out and I am not moving fast it runs about 210. I shut mine down at 220-225.

Here is the cam you need. One of the guys I go riding with has one and it works really good. Heck you can even watch the play back of your video right there after your done recoriding. It is also a water proof system. http://www.themotocam.com/index.php?page=s...&Itemid=104

In order to make trinity's spark arrestor fit cpi's you will need to drill the center core hole out from 1in to 1 1/8 in. I would highly sugest doing it with a drill press because the sides get kindof thin. I also cut my silencer body down so the spark arrestors wernt haing clear out the back. josh

That is probably why the 4 mill is so common. They want to mass produce a stroker crank that will drop right in for 100% of there customers. So they give themselves a little clearance.

You can. People will claim that your wasting money. They will say that the big bore isnt worth it because it makes the transfer ports smaller. Yea it isnt the most economical choice but what do you do if you want bigger cc's with out the drag porting of a cub? I got a set of Patriot Racing drag ported 4mill cylinders. I got them for pretty cheap. 100 bucks. They needed resleeved. I sent them back to Patriot Racing to have them resleeved with bigger sleeves. My bore starts out at 66mm. and ends at 68.5mm. 66mm bore with the 4mill stroker crank is 400cc's for me. If I was in your situation I would do a 4 mill stroker crank AND get the cylinders ported for the 4 mill crank before I would do the big bore sleeves. It will end up costing about the same, and it will have a ton more midrange do to the extra stroke. josh

I know some of the old dirt bikes had 2 spark plugs. You only have one wire on. You foul a plug and you just swap the wire over to the other plug. There were also others that took the spark plug out and put in a decompression valve that was opperated by a little mini lever on the handle bars. Probably came in handy on those big 500+ cc machines. The problem with running that head now is getting different domes. What if you wanted to go up to a stroker, or change compression? You can bet trinity isnt going to make you a set of domes for that head.

Mine came with my switches. I bought them on ebay and I can find the seller. They look like this. Just do a web search for toggle switch boot. You should just need one that is the same size as the thread on the switch.

ASV C5's in black. Make sure you get the Pro Perch Modle. It is a nice setup. josh

Dip the socket in Valve Grinding Compound or Valve Laping Compound. It helps the socket bite. It works wonders on the philips screws that hold the carb bowls on too. Allen head bolts that are about to round out as well.