jbooker82

Here is my RS Flywheel. Rivit head broke off stuck to the pickup coil and when the node came through it destroyed the pickup. It is at RS now going to get warrentied. Makes for a pretty good kill switch. There were some cows out on the trail I was riding on. Gave it a few revs and it just died. Everybody riding with me was like give it a few kicks to try to start it. I told them it wasnt going to start, I could tell by the way it died. Got pulled back to camp 5 miles by my bro's gril friends vfoce 700. Took the stator cover off and found it. What did your's do when it went out. High RPM Miss, Just flat out quit? josh

It could be your float hight is messed up but that is pretty big jetting. I was just wondering if your running out of gas feeling wasnt being caused by to big of main jet. What Needles you got in it. Again most people swap them out for CEL's josh

It isnt hard at all. You just have to take the clutch cover off. I would go with a Prodesign. Modd Quad had some where the shaft was made out of a soft metal. The seal would wear a groove in the shaft and cause a coolant leak. I dont know if they fixed the problem but I would go PD just incase. josh

It doesnt make any more power. It is a modd that helps improve the reliability of the banshee. The con rod is 5mm longer than stock. The piston has the wrist pin moved up 5mm closer to the head or top of the piston. This reduces the angle of the conecting rod wich puts less stress on the piston skirts. A long rod is the way to go. Being able to run stock rod pistons realy isnt a good reason to run a stock rod length 4mill crank. josh

I just have a kill switch like a dirt bike has.

What do you have for mods that require a 168 main. That is pretty big for dual pwk's. Most guys running cubs with pwks are in the 155 range.

795 series pistons are required for a LONG ROD crank. Regardless if it is stock stroke or 4 mill stroker. Cut Stoker domes, or spacer plate are required for the 4 mill stroker crank. Stock crank = Regular pistons Long Rod stock stroke crank = 795 series pistons Stock (110) Rod 4 mill stroker = Regular Pistons with ethire Cut domes or Spacer Plate Long (115) Rod 4 mill stoker = 795 Series Pistons with ethire Cut Domes or Spacer Plate. You use to have to run blaster pistons with a long rod crank. Since then wiseco has come out with 795 series banshee pistons. That way you dont have to punch out your banshee cylinders to 66mm (stock blaster bore) I would go with the cut domes and no spacer plate option. It is the better way to go. I would do the stroker crank it is a nice up grade. josh

I would get a set of PWK 33's. I run them on my 400cc 4 mill drag ported cylinders, with cpi's. I do more duning than draggin. That intake that Eman is selling is well worth it. I run a boss intake (pretty much the same). It moves the carbs up and back so the LH carb bowl doesnt hit on the clutch arm. The other alternative is taking the plug out and welding up the bottom of the bowl. When you do that you can just take the plug out and change the main jet. josh

If money isnt a concern they look at Sidewinder. 100 bucks for the front sprocket and 150 for the rear sprocket. and 150 dollar chain. You can easly wrap up 400-450 in a drive setup.

Yea I probably wouldnt want to do that ethire. The pistons will weigh different amounts and probably cause a vibration. I know people that race stock cars and they will run every other .030, 060. Or .030 on one side and .060 on the other. Blow a motor up and throw the parts in a bucket. Keep collecting parts until you have enough to build another motor. Good ol local dirt track at its best. For longevity purposes I would run the same bores. josh

Yea that is probably right. I cant remember on my banshee. I know it had an o ring on each of the center 2 berrings. The PTO berring had the clip. I have a Max Load berrings on the outer berrings. josh

For the PWK 35's CEL . That is what everybody runs on stock ported cylinders all the way up to cub cylinders. I would run the PWK35's on that engine. josh

The guy that ported my cylinders has some pipe recomendations on his web page. Just go through the different motor types. Patriot Racing LINK

Call Hot Rods and pretend you just bought one of there cranks. Ask them if you should pull the orings off and use the clips or if you should ditch the clips. http://www.hotrodsproducts.com/index.cfm?f...aqcategoryid=17

I believe you use the orings instead of the clips. My hot rods crank came with orings. It helps coushing the berrings.

I reuse my O rings all the time. Just look at them to make sure there isnt any pinced or chewed up ones. I try to keep a bran new oring set on hand though. I usually dont by a gasket kit because all you really need is the 2 base gaskets that go under the cylinders, clutch cover gasket, and reed/ intake gaskets.

I thought they were 1 and 1/8 1 1/8 in dash LINK

Well when you get the 30's in and play with the air screws to get the best throttle responce if you end up under 1 turn out from seated you need the next size larger pilot. If you end up over 2.5 turns out you need to go down a pilot size. josh

You just need more fuel at Idle. That is why you had to spray a little fuel in it to get it to start. That is also why it probably gets hot fast. It is a little lean. Try tuning in the air screw .5 turns out from closed for stock pilots. You can try try dmc's recomendation for #30 pilots but it might make your banshee hard to start do to being too rich.

Yep Might grab a pair of 158's just in case.

PM kaotik1 He is located in NJ so he would be pretty close to you. He does a great job. I bought a frame from him that was Black Chrome with Giltter in the clear coat. It really sparkles Here is his web site. I dont know if he is 100% owner, or if he just works for them. http://www.northeastcoatings.net

usually you dont have to rejet for reeds, cool head, or timing plate. Reeds dont really give you more power, they increase the throttle responce, or snappy ness.

Turn the air screws all the way in then back them out each .5 turn. That will richen it up about the most you can do with stock pilots. #30's are probably going to be to rich. 27.5's are what I would try. If your under 1 turn out you need a larger pilot, if your more than 2.5 turns out you need a smaller pilot jet. josh

get a chunk of wooden broom handle and stick in the exhaust port. Then work the kick starter by hand. Dont go crazy and trash the cylinders just use it to help wiggle the cylinders up.

A guy I go riding with has this cam. It works really well. Has nice video and it has a remote stop start button. Everything is water proof so there is no worries there. $849 is the price tag. Moto 360 Cam LINK