jbooker82

Neither. Nitromethane and Methanol.

I have had a couple RC 2 stroke pipes ceramic coated. I had Swain Tech do them. They use a real ceramic coating that is applied in molten form. It is ceramic powder so you can only get it in a white. You can paint it what ever color you like afterwards. It is real rough like a pumic stone. Coatings like jet hot are more of a ceramic based paint. They are applied as a liquid then cured.

When I had FMF pipes my banshee came with power core II's. I had to switch to Turbine Core's because I needed a spark arrestor. I didn't notice any power loss, and they sounded about the same. Do you have Turbine Core II's or FMF Q's wich are quite spark arrested silencer.

Any A arm that use hiem joints where they mount to the frame blow as well. They simply do not bolt on. You have to adjust each joint to set the proper Caster. If you don't set the caster up right it will be hard to steer or unstable at high speeds.

RB Designs installs a single plate on the back side of carbs. I have though about sending my PWK33's to them. They also sell a finger adjustable air screw for easier adjustments, but only if your having them do the carb work. They wont sell it seperatly. http://www.rb-designs.com/

The idea behind them is that they keep the air speed up going through the carb at part throttle by keeping the air flowing straight. I would consider it a mod that improves throttle response, not hp. I wish I could get a set for my PWK33's

That's weird. I haven't ever seen any green sludge in bottles of ethanol in a liqueur store.

What rock did you crawl out from under.

By the time you replace the stator after your flywheel comes apart the OEM one would have been the same price or cheaper. Then you wouldn't have ended up ruinning a riding trip cause they don't break down in your drive way.

What about Microsoft trying to get a piece of the used game market. That is pretty much going to squish borrowing games from your friends, and places like game stop will have to fork over cash to sell used games.

Only use vasoline / petroleum jelly. Other greases will not melt and disperse. So you get chunks floating around in your radiator.

No it wont gum up because it is a Synthetic oil. Dajo's gum was caused by mixing it not mixing with the methanol left in his fuel system. R50 is not methanol compatible. R50 is a really good oil. It's flash point is 550 deg F, and viscosity of 18.20 cSt at 100 deg C. Dominator has a flash point of 194 deg F and a viscosity of 7.5 cSt at 100 deg C.

I have a Note 10.1 and like it a lot. It has an IR blaster on it so you can use it to control your home theater. It gets on the net and downloads your tv guide. I also use the Android remote to run my ONKYO receiver from the net. Its nice to be out in the garage and able to adjust the volume, or skip songs on Pandora with out having to physically be in front of the receiver.

I looked through your posts and couldn't see where you explained it the first time. Could you please provide a link to the thread that is dated before 5/18/2013 04:22 am.

Yea but it looks so good next to my crooked Chinese radiator

No matter who you go with I think it is deffinatly worth it to have done. How bad could it be to have a coating on a piston skirt that helps retain oil, and a coating on the top of the piston to insulate it against heat? I have never done any pistons to get more performance. I do it for reliabity.

The problem I had was the coating would bubble up after I baked it in the oven. I started out with a low temp setting and gradually increased the temps. I did apply the coatings with an air brush and cleaned the parts real good with acetone. I dont have the coatings anymore. I hadnt used them in a few years so I tossed them. I do still have a small bottle of your WSX powder that I use. That stuff is a pretty cool dry powder lube.

Klotz R50 has a flash point of 550 deg F wich means it isn't burning off. What is your oil's flash point?

Have to see if he is to proud to admit when he takes it back off.

But is it possible to get a 7.5:1 ratio and 175 psi on a banshee motor?

Almost looks like you set the motor to TDC then the line on the rotor lines up with the line on the top piece. You can see in your pic that they are almost lined up now. I don't know if that is how your suppose to do it but it kind of looks like it.

Really. I didn't they they did. Maybe they changed and are now using key ways. I know you use to have to find TDC on the motor then set your own ignition timing.

Pretty common when its cold. After the transmission warms up it should shift fine and not want to creep with the clutch pulled in. The oil just needs to warm up, and the clutch pack needs to get oil worked in. When is super cold out I have to rev mine then drop it in gear when I first fire it up in neutral. If I let it idle and drop it in to first the motor will some times die, and it lunges forward.

Could be to rich. It is able to make some power when its cold but as the motor warms up it also warms up the air that it is taking in. Warmer air requires less fuel because it is less dense so there is less oxygen.