jbooker82

Did you seal them up when you bolted the singer tube to the silencer? You can take the end cap off and put a little Ultra Black on it to seal the tip to the body. Your always going to have some oil oozing from some where. For every 8 galons of gas you run 1 quart of oil through the motor. Where do you think it is all going ? josh

If they are PWK's I would run CEL's If they are PJ's I would run CEK's.

I am sure it is a general book. I doubt it is going to tell you to make the transfers 2mm wider and 3 mm taller. It will probably also be a more focused on Single Cylinder Motor Cycle engines. What works for a Big 500 and what works for a 125 are going to be two totaly different things. Then you have to figure in what pipe your going to run. I would leave real porting to some one that knows what they are doing if your looking for real power. If your just cleaning things up then go for it. When you start opeaning ports up, you change the timing and durations. It is like dropping in a cam in a 4 stroke. If you had your own welder and bench grinder would you make your own "Performance Cam"? josh

No B8ES same plug as the BR8ES only non resistor. The 2001 and up banshee says br8es. I just run them to get a little hoter spark by not having a resistor.

With the stock head on bend a pice of solder in the shape of an L. Put it in through the spark plug hole so it touches the cylinder wall. You want to go paralled with the wrist pin in the piston. Roll the motor over by hand. It will smash the solder and that is your squish clearance. You could aslo get a measure ment by using a dial calipar. You know the long part that comes out of the handle when you opean the calipar up. Talk to david noss at www.nossmachine.com He makes cool heads and domes. He will be able to fix you up. BHQ members get 10% off too. josh

I have one for my raptor. The sticker was on upside down so I peeled it off and was going to put the extra sticker on the right way. Peeled the sticker off and the chrome come with it. Rocky Mountain wont warrenty the axle because it spacificaly stays on the warrenty doesnt cover the chrome finish. josh

That is another thing. I am running on Resistor Plugs. B8ES's

The kit his is talking about is an aftermarket cylinder kit. They look almost like stock oem cylinders. If your looking for all out HP then the cub is the way to go. Vito's kit would probably be good for some one wanting a big bore kit with out the drag porting that a cub has.

Snoop those LED's that you can get a hold of do they require dc or can you run them off ac?

I had theshee polish my cpi silencers with trinity spark arrestors. I didnt like the "Machined Look" that they come with. Before After.

Yea that is where I got my CPI's from and they came ready to put on. I got mine on order before the price hike $595. There chrome and customer service is worth the extra price. josh

http://sunocoinc.com/site/Consumer/RaceFuels/ Use the dealer locator. It will give you a company to call. They will be able to track down some one closer to you that sells there fuel. I just run the Standard Race fuel. josh

I bet you would be surprised. If you look hard enough there would be some body. Go through the local race ways pits and see if there is some body selling. There is another guy I deal with he pulls a trail in to the pits and just sells barrles of fuel, tires and that kind of stuff. If you find a good ol guy that use to race, and just sells stuff to make a little cash and for fun you will get a pretty good deal. You see some poeple on here that buy there fuel from a quad shop and get raped 75+ bucks for a 5 gallon can. I have a general rule. If the shop has it out on display with all the other stuff you are getting ripped off. They got it sitting there like it is a majical blend. The real guys sell it by the 55 gallon drum and it is way cheaper per gallon. I have a 100 dollar 12v dc pump that has the hose and fuel nossle on it. I just pull a plug out and thread the pump on. I have aligator clamps on the wires and just hook it up to my pickup battery.

Yea they are real. They are mostly used by people running methanol. I would only get them if your riding at places where there is a big change in alitude. If your staying at the same elevation I wouldnt get them. If you do get them I would also drill a hole and tap the carb bowl instead of breaking off the over flow tube inside the bowl. josh

I get mine for 5 bucks a gallon. $260 for a 50 gallon barrle. http://www.krpi.com/sponsors.htm

Would a small capacitor help even out the the voltage change or frequency? I am not a electronics man by any means. josh

You could probably run VP Red. It is 105 motor octane and is supose to be a more afordable fuel. I run Citgo 110 Motor octane is 106 (R+M)/2 is 110 Research Octane is 114 Citgo 110, Sunoco Standard 110 are good fuels that are way cheaper than VP. When you buy VP you do get a good fuel but your paying for the name. Verry Pricy

I think MOST people PM Dinner :biggrin:

Pretty bad when you pay 500+ bucks for a set of pipes and you dont get Orings. If Toomey ever copied a CPI or Shearer pipe and put there quality control on it they would own the market.

I just use 2 empty Duche Bottles. They work better because they are sperate chambers. Pluse they smell great. :biggrin:

I would say your deffinatly rich. My plugs dont look that dark after a year of riding. You need to warm the bike up on the old plugs. Put new plugs in fire it up go WOT. Shut it off and pull the clutch and stop. Put the old plugs back in. The plugs will be white but you need to cut the threads off and look at the base of the porcline. There will be a brown smoke ring. By how fat / dark the ring is will tell you if your rich or lean. josh

yea by high idling it was a lean condition because it was sucking air. As soon as it happened I shut it down. I wouldnt have found the damage if it didnt happen. I did have my PWK33's when it happend. I the damage had to happen when it locked up on me. I went for the first wot blast down a grave county rode. I only went through 4 gears. I let off to decelerate and it instantly locked the rear tires. The pistons were a little tight twards the bottom of the bore when I put it together. I just checked the clearance with a feeler gauge between the piston skirt and cylinder wall.

That is what CPI packs them with. I pulled all that stuff out and bought 2 fly racing repack kits. I would get some packing that was the flat mat that you wrap around the core. I woulnt get that stringy spaghetti packing. That would be a mess with all the oil. It is made for 4 strokes. josh

Wow that sucks. I dont know what would have caused that. When I was breakin in my top end I had the same thing happen. Took it easy for a tank. I took it out on the rode and wound it up. First time I really hit the power band on my drag port. Went through a couple gears and let off the throttle and the rear tires locked up, and slid on the gravel. I leaned back and snaped the clutch a couple times to break it free. It Idled real slow so I let it cool down. Fired it up and rode it around a little while taking it easy. I never had any other problems with it. Fast forward 6 tanks of fuel. I was trail riding and I started getting a high lingering Idle. The cylinders came loose and blew the base gaskets out. I shut it down right a way when it wasnt idling right. I took it home and pulled the cylinders off just to replace the blown out gaskets. I found this. That damage had to occure when it locked up on me. I had the pistons coated by swain tech. PC9 Dry Film lubercation coating on the skirts and thermal heat barrier on the piston heads, and domes. The PC9 saved my cylinders. There was just a tiny spec of aluminum that transfered and stuck to the cylinder wall. I think it would have looked like yours if I didnt have the pistons coated. It saved me and was worth it. The pistons were a little tight when I put the engine together and that is what caused the siez. How was the clearance on yours? Here is the pics of the carnage. You can see it smeared the coating but it didnt allow it to become as bad as yours.

Unplug the power cable so the vapor is just running on the interal battery. I bet it doesnt do it then. Mine didnt. It is deffinatly a power issue and not a vibration issue. When I talked to trail tech they said to do the 9volt battery. They said anymore that is what the recomned for banshee's, and any other motorcycle that doesnt have a battery, just an ac lighting coil. josh