jbooker82

When you start getting OEM decals they add up in a hurry. It was about $400 for OEM Yamaha decals when I did my 06 SE graphics. The two large ones on the rear fenders were $97 bucks for the pair. Then add the cost of new OEM plastic your well a head to buy these for $650 if they are in mint shape as claimed. OEM SE plastics will run you another $680

It is normal. It takes effort to generate electricity so when your using the headlights its going to cause the rpm to slightly drop.

There is no magical port job or cylinder that will give you massive low end torque and high rpm power. When you port for more power it comes at the expense of bottom end.

That is what it is designed for. Way better than using RTV or Ultra Copper / Black.

I would roll the motor over so its at TDC then pour or spray some sea foam down in to the cylinders and let it sit over night. Probably take a couple days since you can only do one side at a time. That way the sea foam has time to work. If you ran an oil that contains caster oil it probably dried out and got gummy.

I just run Engine Ice all year round. It does the same thing and offers freezing protection, where Water Wetter and Distilled water do no.

I probably wouldn't have offered to ship international. Way to many head aches. I guess they could always cut it up for cheaper packaging then let you re assemble it with a welder.

Nut backed off first. A properly torqued flywheel nut doesnt ever require a key. All a key does is locate the fywheel in the proper orentation. The taper of the crank and flywheel along with the nut hold it in place. The key isnt designed to keep the fywheel from spinning on the crank. Any time you swap a flywheel or crank out you should lap the two together. That way the tapers 100% match. All you do is put some valve grinding / lapping compound on the crank and flywheel. Put the flywheel on the crank and spin it back and fourth. Then clean the compound off.

At 66mm you really should be running big bore domes any way. I would make sure they have the correct angle. How the head seals against the cylinders and coolant passages would be another issue to look at.

Other than its within the border of the US and hooked up to a network. I don't use any anit virus. I keep all my music and photos on an external hard drive. I just wipe my PC clean and start over when I need to.

Wheel spacers and off set wheels do the exact same thing. They give the tire leverage against the steering suspension. If you want to add width the right way you need to move the spindle out, not just the tire.

Hell if your going to go that cheap I would just throw them back in as is and let them wear their own clearance.

If you had a matching pair you could sell them as Trinity Turbo Swirl domes.

I am not old enough to have an Iphone yet. You have to be at least be retired to have one.

If it really worked don't you think you would have seen this "Technology" on 125 and 250cc MX bikes?

double post

Of course. They were poised to loose more money with people leaving the platform than they were going to gain by taxing used game sales. Maybe they will sneak that feature back in with a required system update.

If you decide to have them resleeved I would have them done by the guy who originally ported them. He knows his porting and will be able to match the ports up the best.

Got my PS4 on PreOrder from Game Stop.

That is what I am holding out for when ever Verizon decides to carry it. I herd end of July or beginning of August. I have been rocking the HTC Thunderbolt for the last 2.5 years and it has been a good phone. Yea the battery life sucked but that can be said for about any phone when you surf the net for a couple hours at a shot.

Rubber stoppers from the hardware section.

Oh the 100+ hp motor for $200-250 bucks

But what does the lable say on the side of the pipe. Turbine Core II or FMF Q?

Yea the coil is mounted in the stock location. I made a bracket out of a piece of angle aluminum. I currently have a set of nology hot wires on there. I thought about trying a regular plug wire. I guess over time the capacitor style wires break down due to the high voltage passing through the jacket. This is a copy and paste about capacitor style wires: It is common knowledge amongst automotive electrical engineers that it is unwise to use ignition wires fitted with grounded braided metal sleeves fitted over ignition cable jackets on an automobile engine. This type of ignition wires forces its cable jackets to become an unsuitable dielectric for a crude capacitor (effect) between the conductor and the braided metal sleeves. While the wires function normally when first fitted, the cable jackets soon break down as a dielectric, and progressively more spark energy is induced from the conductors (though the cable jackets) into the grounded metal sleeves, causing the ignition coil to unnecessarily output more energy to fire both the spark plug gaps and the additional energy lost via the braided metal sleeves. Often this situation leads to ignition coil and control unit overload failures. It should be noted that it is dangerous to use this style of wires if not grounded to the engine with grounding straps, as the outside of the braided cables will be alive with thousands of volts wanting to ground-out to anything (or anybody) nearby

How long are the stock spark plug wires? I am wanting to make a new pair, and my banshee is 200 miles way, so I really cant go measure them. I run a Nology / Dyna coil so they snap on the coil just like they snap on the spark plugs. I thought about just buying a 18" MSD coil wire and cutting it in half and putting terminals on the cut ends, but wasn't sure if a 9" plug wire would be long enough.