jbooker82

I guess when I think "port job" it INVOLVES changing the port timings. I wasing refering to your post about making them wider, I was talking about making them taller :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin: :shoothead:

They dont make one for a Cub it is made for stock cylinders. The cub has the same intake bolt pattern as the stock jugs. Putting a 2:1 on that motor would be a total waste. A 2:1 kills top end power, especially on a motor that is ported for top end power. You might as well go for a 2:1 exhaust pipe too.

Does the Twister have PV's? How do they run? josh

4 mill running CPI's and a 2:1. The 2:1 kind of defeats the purpose of the CPI's. Maybe you ran the bowl out of fuel. Built motor with only one carb bowl to run dry.

I think the t rex has been known to eat power valves. josh

Just by looking at the tires you can tell they wont last as long as some. The farther the lugs are spaced appart the quicker they will wear, but the better they hook up. Just like a Mud tire compaired to a Highway tire. josh

I got the duro hookups on my raptor. They are almost identicle to the I razr's. They work sweet. The rear's are more agressive than the I razr rears though. Great RADIAL tire that works good.

I have the RIS clamps on my CPI's. They use 3 viton orings to seal on the stinger tube. Then 1 big fat viton o ring to seal down where the joint is. The ring threads down to really seal them up.

Opeaing the ports on a 2 stroke motor changes when the exhaust goes out, and the fresh fuel and air come in. Would you take a welder and grinder to a stock cam shaft and make your own "performance cam"?

Thanks man. It is a way better option than just clamping on the universal sparkies and scratching the silencers up.

Those numbers should be easly obtanable with a ported stock cylinder 4 mill. Remember the more max hp you want the less midrange you will have. I would go for a 4 mill dune port. Should easly be able to hit those numbers. Do you ride tight trails or are they more opean?

You will need Klotz Supertechniplate, Klotz Benol, or Maxima 927. These three oils blend with alachol. Klotz Supertechniplate would be the one I would run. 80% synthetic oil, 20% Benol Caster oil. You will need to have the carbs setup for alachol too. If you run keihins they have to have the dump tubes drilled out. They are non replaceable so if you go to big then you will need new carbs. Lectrons, or Mikuni TMX (I think) can be changed out. josh

The 10% ethanol wanst at fault. I switched back and fourth between 10% and regular all the time before I ran straight race fuel. Who kept on riding it when it was running poorly, that is what is at fault.

:shrug: Me too. I dont see how you take a cylinder that is cast as a drag ported cylinder and port it for midrange.

He proabably wouldnt need a swing arm if he gets gets a good midrange trail port.

It is good stuff. It has stayed cleaner longer than any other oil I have tried. ATF Type F got the dirtiest the quickest.

I would go with a Ported 4 mill stroker. Best time to do it since you have to replace the crank any way. Here is roughly what you will need. 4 mill long rod crank Wiseco 795 Series Pistons A Cool Head with Cut Stroker Domes 4mill Port job Gasket and Seal kit. Call Jeff at Fast about getting the Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod Crank. He is going to be the cheapest price on the crank. You can talk to him about getting your cylinders ported for your riding style. He is probably pretty buisy and going to be a couple of months on the turn around time. Kevin Herr (herr jugs racing) or Flowtek is proabably going to be one of the fastest turn around times for the port job. I would just get the pistons from the guy your haveing port the cylinders. That way they can do a fresh bore and will have the right size pistons. Make sure when they do the port job they know your building a 4 mill stroker motor. They port the cylinders differently when building a 4 mill. josh

What didnt you like about it? I am running the Carbon Fiber Dirt Digger. I have had it a few years with no problems. The only think I dont like about it is it seem to make the transmission oil dirty pretty fast. Even when running Bel Ray Gear Saver. I have som Silkolen Comp Gear oil in there now and it seems to be staying a nice clear red color now. It says it works with clutches that have Aluminum (steel plates).

That doesnt make sence considering Indy Car switched from Methanol to Ethanol. They thought it would be good PR to run a fuel that was GROWN here in the US. The reason why there wasnt as much power is because the engine wasnt built to run Ethanol. Sure the manufactures made the fuel system Ethanol compatable so you have CHOICE to run Flex Fuel (E85) or Regular gasoline. In order to make power with Ethanol or Methanol you need to up the compression. The big auto manufactures havent done that because then it WOULDN'T be a Flex Fuel Vehilce. You would have to run E85 all the time. Then if some one put regular gas in there E85 ONLY vehicle it would melt the motor down due to detonation. josh

I would imagine that would kill the air flow. Like clamping a pice of fabric over the carbs instead of using a K&N filter. More Surface Area = Better Flow.

Here are my spark arrested CPI Silencers. I bought a set of Trinity's spark arrestors. You will have to work with them to get them to fit up. Issue #1 They slide right in to the cpi silencer body. The center hole in the spark arrestor is to small. Trinity's pipes use a smaller core. Here is what I did. The hole in the spark arrestor is 1" in diameter. It needs to be opeained up to 1 1/8". You really need a drill press for this because the walls get kind of thin. I wouldnt try it with a hand drill. You just drill 1/2 the way through. You dont want to opean it up to 1 1/8" all the way through or the core could slide out. Then you take a 1" drill bit and go all the way through. That way the inside diameter of the spark arrestor base is the same ID as the CPI's core. And it makes a ridge so the core cant slide out. Issue #2 The 3 holes that hold cpi's end cap on doesnt line up with the trinity spark arrestors. The tip wont be mounted straight if you dont make new holes in the silencer body. I cut my silencers down 1.6" so the spark arrestors wont be haning clear out the back. Dont cut the core down until you have the spark arrestor fitted for the core. That way you can measure how long the core needs to be for a tight fit (not to long or to short). If you have any questons just ask josh theshee did the polishing for me too. Before After

I just have a cople tiny holes dirlled in the bottom of my stator cover. I think moisture gets in there when you wash it. It comes in around the rubber groment for the wires. josh

The cheeta cub is exactly what it sounds like. The little brother to the Cheetah. The Cub is an aftermarket cylinder that is drag ported right out of the box. It uses banshee parts (Reeds, Head.) The Cheetah is a Power Valve block. It has a slide valve like the carburetor has in the exhaust port. As the rpm's increase the valve opeans up more and advances the exhaust port timing. It helps give you a better mid range. You have to use a Cheetah head, and it uses I THINK honda CR500 Reeds they are much larger.

a 421 as in a cub or resleeved stock cylinders? I run a lock up and dont have any problem with shifting with a standard non over ride transmission. Just get a good lever like an asv c5 pro model.

CEG If it is running good on the bottom end then just try droping the mains. I would say 160 is plenty rich for a stock cleaned up port.