jbooker82

What he said was true and COULD HAPPEN. Long rod crank (5mm long con rod) with STANDARD not 795 series piston would cause the piston to come up 5mm out of the bore. Then put a 5mm spacer plate under the cylinders so the pistons dont pop 5 mm out of the bore. Is that what this guy has. Probably not. That isnt a 5 mm spacer plate. Nor is that a very good idea to build a motor with any way. it would jack the port timings way up. I would be looking for a 4 mill stroker crank.

Mine wernt that bad when I ran the exact same setup. I did have to have the carb tilted a little though. The PWK33's fit even better with my CPI's now. Looks like my carb might have set a little farther back on the pipe.

Here are my spark arrested CPI Silencers. I bought a set of Trinity's spark arrestors. You will have to work with them to get them to fit up. Issue #1 They slide right in to the cpi silencer body. The center hole in the spark arrestor is to small. Trinity's pipes use a smaller core. Here is what I did. The hole in the spark arrestor is 1" in diameter. It needs to be opeained up to 1 1/8". You really need a drill press for this because the walls get kind of thin. I wouldnt try it with a hand drill. You just drill 1/2 the way through. You dont want to opean it up to 1 1/8" all the way through or the core could slide out. Then you take a 1" drill bit and go all the way through. That way the inside diameter of the spark arrestor base is the same ID as the CPI's core. And it makes a ridge so the core cant slide out. Issue #2 The 3 holes that hold cpi's end cap on doesnt line up with the trinity spark arrestors. The tip wont be mounted straight if you dont make new holes in the silencer body. I cut my silencers down 1.6" so the spark arrestors wont be haning clear out the back. Dont cut the core down until you have the spark arrestor fitted for the core. That way you can measure how long the core needs to be for a tight fit (not to long or to short). If you have any questons just ask josh theshee did the polishing for me too. Before After

There is more to porting than just opeaning up ports and smoothing things out. When you make ports taller you change how the motor behaves. It changes intake and exhaust durations.

Who is doing the work? Any banshee builder should be able to port them with out the crank. If he is a local guy that isnt real famillar with the banshee then, they will probably want the crank so they can use a deg wheel. If your already wanting more power then I would do the 4mill.

I run trinity spark arrestors on my cpi's. I will post some pics when I get home

Get them ported for a 4mill stroker. Once u port them for a stock stroke crank you cannot port them for the 4mill. Methanol is to much of a pain for anything other all out drag racing.

I have 2 theories on your problems. #1 If you have gotten your banshee hot enough to crack the Pro Design shell then it has probably been hot enough to warp the tops of the cylinders #2 Since your are .090 over you should be runnin big bore domes. They are made for 66-68mm. They move the combustion o ring farther out for better sealing.

I fill my 55 gallon barrel and it usually takes a little under a year to burn. I dont notice any performance differences between the first fill up and the last fill up. I dont think race fuel breaks down near as fast because it is a better quality fuel.

Get a Torkx (Star) bit and pound it in. They work the best for a striped allen head. Next time you feel it start to round out, get some valve grinding compound and dip the wrench in it. It gives the allen wrench traction and it wont round out. josh

You have a couple options. A cast 35 dollar ricky stator plate. You can get a Billit plate from Chariot for 50 bucks http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/chariotperformance Or a billit pd one for 100 I would go with the chariot. It is 15 bucks more than the cheap cast one and is good high quality pice. Billit is stronger than cast.

Probably because it it jetted rich and it runs better when it starts to lean out.

How far have you shimed it out. It takes quite abit to keep it from rubbing. I think I have 3/8 in spacers inbetween the frame and hangers on my CPI's. You can see it in the pic.

It uses cold temps to strenthen the metal.

Best thing about hanging out at the high school is; you get older and the chicks stay the same age.

The TI Core would be like the Power Core only made up of Ti a lighter material. TheTurbine Core is a Spark Arrested silencer. If u need a spark arrestor then the turbine core s the one u want. The turbine core is one of the best flowing spark arrested sileners.

I would go with dual PWK 33's. You could probably sell your 2-1 for the price of the two carbs.

If your going to be doing strictly drag racing then I would run a PWK 35mm carb. If your going to be more duning then I would go with a PWK 33

I sent a flywheel to DMR to have it lightend. I emailed him before I sent it out and he said that his turn around would be the same day right now. He has had it for about a week. I sent him a couple emails asking about how to pay for it and left a voice mail a couple days ago to call me. I havent herd anything via email or phone. I am not really worried about getting riped off. Just wondering if he is out of town or if some thing came up. I havent seen anyting about him being on vacation on there web page. http://www.davemooreracing.com/ josh PS I did get an email from K&T saying there hours have been changed due to an injury

Porting is the next huge step in power after pipes these other mods help out but wont be as big of a power increase as a port job. You can get the cylinders ported to your riding style. I would emagine a strong mid range is more important to you than top end drag racing power. Yea you can shave your stock head and it will do the same thing a cool head will do. I cool head doenst really help cool much better. It does help but it doesnt cure overheating problems. You need to shoot for 150 psi compression with around +4 deg of timing and still be able to run pump premium fuel. If you want to run more timing and more compression then you have to start mixing pump fuel with high octane race fuel. 150 psi with +4 timing wont hurt relabilty. It really helps out in the midrange. As for filters do you ride in mud or water? I would recomend running K&N Pod filters if you dont. They are individual filters that you clamp straight on the carbs. It makes jetting much easier. You just take the fiter off to get at the carbs instead of having to remove that pice of crap air box each time. Most people dont run a jet kit.

It is a nice setup. Just make sure you run BR8ES PLugs instead of the B8ES's. The non resistor B8ES plugs will cause interfearance and cause the computer to screw up. I was getting RPM readings with B8ES plugs and didnt even have the RPM sensor lead pluged in to the vapor.

The probably sold a lot more of them when the banshee first came out in 87. There has been pelnty of time for other companys to make a better pipe. I guess DG just decided to sit by and watch every body pass them by.

I run the RIS pipe clamps. They are based on that style. Mine have 3 orings that seal down on the silencer tube and 1 fat oring that seals down on the head pipe or expansion chamber. The end that has the fat oring is threaded so you can thread it down and really seal up the big oring. I havent had a single trace of oil show up. They do look better made than those. I am sure they cost more to. Mine were 65 bucks for the pair and I would buy them again in a heart beat. I run them on my CPI's. They make them for CPI, Toomey, and FMF. They are custome made for each brand or size of pipe. If you have a different exhaust than what they list give them a call with some measurements and they will help you find one that will work. josh http://www.risdesigns.com/index.php?option...0&catid=172

4 oz per gallon is 32:1

I think it was a CJR. For a little more $$ you can get a Trail Tech Vapor. It has Engine temp, Max Engine temp, Air temperature RPM, Max RPM Speed, average speed, max speed Aculumitated milage (odometer) Ride milage (trip odometer) Acumulated Ride time (HR meeter) Ride Time Programable Shift Lights, and Engine Temperature Waring lights.