jbooker82

make sure you hav good grounds on the stator plate. Did you set the pickup coil gap. If it is too big then that could not cause a spark.

Here is ther web site. http://www.twocycletech.com

I use to run a an automotive temp gauge too. The vibration kept destroying gauges. I was going to try an autometer liquid filled gauge but it was too big. They only come in 2 5/8 inch. Looked to big.

I Think you could just use some jb weld. I think that is about all the stock one is coated in. Just an epoxy. did you just nick it or did you tear a couple wires and are they shorting out?

If you had a claymer manual you would have a wiring diagram. I would put a honda cr killl swithc in place of the kill switch on the bars. It plugs right in to the stock harness, or it did on my 97.

Why is your cover foggy? It looks like you have gotten some moisture in the tranmsion an it has fogged over the inside.

When I was getting my spark arrestors for my cpi's they couldnt even send me 2 with the same size hole. One was 1.1 core diamter the other was 1.0. So I had to send them both back so they could "see the differnce" Shipment # 2 of the spark arrestors. I only got one. It was the small one. They wanted me to send it back so they knew wich one was the wrong one. Shipment #3. Said they dont have the big ones 1.1's. I had the same thing show up with shipment #1, sent them both back. Shipment #4 shows up. 1 small 1.0 spark arrestor that some TOOL BAG took a die grinder and opeand up to match the other 1.1 in hole sparkarrestor. I sent both back. Shipment #5 shows up with 2 small 1.0 hole spark arrestors and I took a 1 and 1/8 in bit and made them work my self. I coudlnt belive they just took a grinder and tried making "the right size hole". There is no way I would have them port anything of mine if they cant get 2 matching spark arrestors off the shelf. Trinity WAS good when they started up with the old man doing the work.

Yours is only the second one that I have herd of doing this. The first one being this thread. Call them up and ask them whats going on. Let them know you have herd of others failing and see how they explain whats going on.

I dont know why you would be paranoid if you went a head and tried a 3 jaw puller. Guess if the crank takes a #2 on you then you will know the flywheel is bent.

What kind of cylinders to you have that are Nikasil Coated? Stock yamaha cylinders are not coated. The Cub Cylinder uses a Nikasil Coating. I dont think that if you ran an aluminum cyinder with aluminum pistons it would hold up very good. It would run but how long who knows. I tore appart a Briggs and Straton lawn mower engine and that is what it had Aluminum cylinder with aluminum piston. It also has crank case oil, where the banshee doesnt. The only oil it gets is the oil you put in with the fuel. You would probably be lucky to make it a tank of fuel or two.

That is what I have in my banshee now. It seems to stay the cleanest the longest. Just dont by a oil that is made for differentials. You dont want an oil that is labled 80w-90 that would be a Hypoid Gear oil. The bel ray gear savers can mess you up if you dont pay atension to the lable. Bel Ray Gear Saver has a couple different versions. Tranmission Oil (any of these 3 will work) 75w 80w 85w Hypoid Gear Oil (differentials) 80w-90 85w-140

If I was building a motor on a tight budget I would skip the cool head and have a stock head milled. Then take the 200 you saved on the cool head and put it twards the port job. Pipes, and Porting are the 2 biggest modds that will give you the most power per dollar spent. You have 3 options with the timing plate. The $100 billit plate from Pro Designe, $50 billit plate from Chariot Perfomance (ebay), or the $35 cast aluminum plate from ricky stator. I run the Pro Design plate. I wanted a billit plate and found it use for $40 bucks. I wouldnt have spent that money for a new one. I would have went with the Chariot plate for $50. Since you ALREADY have the T6's get the port job of your choice and try it out. No sence in spending the money you were going to put down for a port job on new pipes and have a marginal gain vs. the huge gain you would have gotten with a port job. Sure they might not be the Ideal pipe but they can be changed later. It isnt costing you any more mony leaving them on there.

I am sure they do since they are on there web site.

Here they are. http://store.albaaction.com/shop/TANK-SHROUDS.html

Mine has one on it. It was on it when I bought it. I think the previous onwer got it at Alba. I dont know if they still have them, when they did it was pretty pricy but real carbon fiber. josh

Yes you do need some plastic's

Silkolene Comp Gear It is the best oil I have found. It stays cleaner a lot longer than other oils I have tired. josh

Yep if you own a banshee then HQ is the place for you. If you own a weed wacker, or leaf blower then E2S is for you.

When ever I have had a reed break the side completly quits running and it sucks air in through the exhaust pipe.

That is what I would say too. Maybe there crank went bad so they threw in a 4 mill and never bothered to have it ported.

I got a used seal that is all hard and cracked because it is old.

That is why you box the part up and address it your self. No kidding it is expesnive when you just drop some thing off with an address and expect UPS to package it for you. UPS pays there guys really well and if your going to go waste there time by haveing them box it up your going to pay there wage.

Go to the shop and tell them to order you a new Idle screw kit.

The Engine will Richen up as it warms up. Engine gets hot, warms the air up it is pullin in to the motor. Hot air is less dense so it requires less fuel. Warming the engine up in the drive way and ripping up and down the street a few times is not the same as working it hard non stop in the trails. What is your jetting Main Pilot What Needle What Clip Position Air Screws turn out x many times

What about a 1-5 dunalbe witha manual 6th?