jbooker82

Could you post another pic of the oring grove on the domes. A standard bore dome will have a groove for the o ring to set in. A Big Bore dome will only have part of the groove. The ouside part will be missing.

Yea it is beat. Looks like a standard dome will work. There isnt enough material machined out of the domes to be a cut stroker dome. You can still give noss a call. He is a good guy to deal with and BHQ members get 10% off.

Glad to here you got it going. Hopefully he realizes that you went above and beyond to fix a problem that wasnt related to the work you had done. Was it a stock cap that quit venting? I took all the balls and drilled the passages out on my stocker. I now have an aftermarket clear gas cap. I just use a pice of fuel line for the vent hose. I have herd of those little gas cap vents (short vent tub with billit aluminum top) going bad and starving the engines too. josh

You dont need big bore domes then. 66mm is where the transfer happens. You can run a big bore dome or a standard bore dome with 66mm. So you need just a standard bore dome. Now you need to see if you have a stroker crank or not. Do the domes look deep. Like recessed 2 mm farther. Is 2mm thick spacer plate inbetween the cylinders and the crank case? No stroker crank you can just get an off the shelf dome. Stroker crank and a 2 mm thick spacer plate under the cylinders you still run standard domes Stroker crank and no spacer plate then you need a pair of domes that are recessed 2mm so the the piston doesnt hit the dome. 4 mill crank will cause the piston to pop out 2mm out of the top of the cylinders, and fall 2 mm farther down in to the cylinders. If I was guessing I would say you dont have a stroker crank. Most stroker cranks are long rod strokers. They do make a standard rod stroker but it isnt as common as a long rod stroker. Your running 513m06500 pistons. Wich is a standard 65.00mm banshee piston. If you were running a long rod crank you would have 795m06500 pistons. 795 series pistons are for long rod cranks. Both stock stroke and 4 mill long rod stroker crank.

I dont know if you will be able to find one. Seems like now a days they go tits up before they are out of a warrenty period. I just sent two back for a refund. I am not going to mess with them any more. One had a lighting coil burn up. The other had a High RPM miss. It just ran crusty on the top end.

I would call noss machine. Once you start buying domes for anything other than a stock stroke and regular bore 64-66mm you should call some one. There is to many varables. Those domes that you linked says +4mill and big bore. Who knows what that means. Could be for 4 mill running 66mm banshee pistons 4mill running 66mm blaster pistons (different combustion chamber angle) Maybe they are ment for running a 421 cub. 421 cub doesnt require stroker domes, just big bore because the cylindders have a 2 mm taller deck high already.

If it was me I would go with a PWK 33's. I dont know if it would be worth spending that money to jump from a 26mm to a 28mm.

I mentioned it because if I WAS going to do it I WOULD do it right or not at all. Since I dont want to pay that kind of money for a machine that is only good for drag racing I WON'T be running a tripple. I dont just drag race. I trail ride, dune, ride fire roads, and drag race for fun. I dissagree on that statement. Your really claiming 95% of banshee's on this web site are junk? So is this a call out to ANY Banshee that is running the ANTIQUE manual 6 speed? I will be looking forward to some pics of this Work of Art when it is done. Because of that big hunk of garbage hanging out one side of the frame. Where do you plan on putting the CVT clutch system at? Ever banshee I have seen has it hanging clear out one side. It is a heck of a lot longer than a street bike engine.

I belive so. They should even be the same for all the jap cars. It is just called an import cap. You might want to make sure you get the same pressure cap though. MR Gasket has an Import Cap that has a temperature gauge built in. You can have some what of an idea of a running temperature. Advanced Auto or Auto Zone should be able to get one for you. http://go.mrgasket.com/newproducts/flyers/74241G.pdf

The work so good I just got some longer hose and got rid of my radiator all together. :wallbash:

I didnt lock tight mine for that reason. If you ever have to remove that stud make sure you break the allen head bolt loose before you start to take the nuts loose.

Jeff at fast will has a pretty good price on the stroker crank 435 plus some extra $$ if you decide for a tz bearing on the PTO side. Do like you said on the top end. Get the pistons, domes, and port job from the same guy. He will know what works best for his porting, and what size domes to be able to run +4 deg timing and pump fuel. Just make sure he knows that your building a 4mill long rod stroker so he ports it for the 4 mill crank, and sends you 795 series pistons. josh

I belive you brought drag racing cars in to the story when you made this comment. I was just stating some facts using the fastest of fastest. That is why I dont have one. I woudlnt pay that kind of money for a toy, and I also wont have a butched, and cobbled up half breed banshee ethire. So where is your foot peg going to be located?

See if the local auto parts store has a cooling system pressure tester. You pretty much do the same thing as a leak down test only on the cooling system.

They work great for cutting out a bad spot in the hose and splice it back together. They dont help with cooling. The fins are to thick to disapate any real amount of heat. Sure they shed some heat but not a huge amount.

That is hard on CDI's. Dyna FS says not to do it that way. Hook the ground wire of the teather to the black wire that goes in to the handle bar kill switch. Hook the other wire to the Black wire with White stripe. This is how the stock kill switch works. When you ground the black/white wire to the black wire it kills the engine. http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/support/dynatek_faq.aspx#610

They are flush on my PD head. If the domes stick out farther that could cause a coolant leak twards the out sides of the cylinders. If they were to far in then the coolant could leak in to the cylinder and compression would leak in to the cooling system.

What are you trying to do. By the looks of the wiring diagram they just cut some of the wires and switches out, and wired it so the high beams would be on all the time when ever it is running.

I woud say it would be ok. Chances are your going to cure the poweder at a higher temperature than what they get when running. I dont know what kind of effect heating them up to cure them will have on the cylinder bore. If it were me and I was going to powder coat the cylinders I would have done it before I had them bored. You could end up warping the bore. I was going to have my cylinders powdercoated when I got them back from patriot racing. I asked Dan from Patriot and he recomended painting them over powder coat for that reason.

NHRA Pro Stock use a mulit disk cluctch with a manual 5 speed transmission. That is correct. That is why you use a close ratio 5 or 6 speed over a 3 speed manual. The name of the game is also to loose less HP in the drive train. You can put that power to the ground to go faster. That is something that a manual transmission does better. Drag Racing is the the sport that is pushing the limits. If some thing new and innovative was to come along like an infinate ratio automatic that makes the manual tranmission a dynosaur wouldnt they be using it? Once you start making so much horse power you dont need infinate ratio's because you have enough horse power. A top fuel dragster is just a single speed. If they can make a cluch disks stand up to 7000-8500 hp why cant they make a belt with stand this horse power. Especially if it is the next best thing as sliced bread. So back pedaling doesnt count as a driver skill? Anybody can do any kind of racing or sport for that matter. Wether your good at it will determine your sucess. Yea money has something to do with it but you cant buy records.

I would run the CPI's also. They work good on a dune port. josh

So what your saying is the CVT helps off set a bad driver. I would take at Tripple cylinder banshee with 6speed override any day over a CVT transmission.

Couldnt you just run a longer shock?

A snow mobiel uses a CVT (Constant Velocity Transmission) It is a belt automatic. As the motor revs up centrifigal force makes the pully on the engine get larger. And the other pully gets smaller. The banshee has a full manual gear box. It doesnt rob near as much horse power as the cvt. CVT is what some utiliy atvs have. You just hammer the throttle the engine revs clear up and you gain speed as the centrifical pullys go to work. Matoon Machine makes a set of cases that will allow you to run a 3cylinder snomobile crank and cylinders and still use the banshee's 6 speed manual gear box and clutch. What turns most people away is the price tag. These cases are Billit aluminum and prices start at $2500. Then you have to get a set of custom made pipes. Do a seach for Crankenstine or Cougar (4 cylinder 2 stroke)

I think all aftermarket gears are all striaght cut. It doesnt pull on the end of the crank like the angled cut gears do.