jbooker82

Klotz is just that good. :biggrin: I wouldnt think that changin oil would cause that problem but I dont know. Order a couple quarts from rocky mountain next time you order some thing. That way you not just paying shipping just for 2 or 3 quarts of oil.

main is to big. Pilot is to small. Not knowing your mods or elevation I would start out 160 main 48 pilot CEL needle in the middle clip.

4 mill crank and a port job.

Methanol and no ground strap on the plug. I would say it was lean and melted it off. If your asking these types of questions you shouldnt be running methanol. It is a pain to mess with and should only be run for drag racing. It is very finiky, it doesnt take much to mess up a top end. josh

yea they are a dirct replacement for the stock bulbs. I am not for sure what years they work for. I dont know if the earlier yamaha's used different bulbs. I run them in my raptor and banshee. They are about 30 bucks per bulb, but they are worth it. josh

I was running sylvania Tru AIM IR bulbs in my trail techs. They were about the brightest bulb watt for watt I tried. I was running a 4 of them with a ricky stator high output stator. Kept haveing problems with the ricky stator. I am back to running an OEM stator with 06' oem lights with Piaa H6M bulbs. They are just as bright as a pair of trail tech 35 watt. josh

Yea but moisture can get in there from washing it.

So you dont have to fill the gas tank as much. The only way you get better mpg is by bringing in less air. Less air requires less fuel, but you claim it still has ultimate top end. It doesnt seem like it adds up. If you want to run 1 carb get a machine that has 1 cylinder. a 2:1 kills top end. I would run dual stock carbs before I ran a 2:1

Same here. Most of the people that say a resleeved stock cylinder sucks dont actually have one. I have resleeved stock cylinders (patriot drag ported 4 mill) that have the same sleeves. First bore is 66mm last bore is 68mm. Looking at the transfers by eye you cant even really tell. I could see that being the case where you have the huge sleeves that go clear to the cylinder head studs.(404cc).

Oh come on now. Every body likes to look at a foged up pice of lexan.

I got rid of my trail techs because I was tired of dirt, sand, and water getting in behind the front cover glass.

I dont have a problem. How do you have yours hooked up. Mine was off when I hooked it up directly to the coil. I wraped the tach pickup wire around a sparkplug wire and it is was fine. You also have to set the vapor for 2 pulses per revolution.

A lot of people run ATF type F in there banshee transmission with out any clutch slippage problems. It would be about the same consistancey as hydraulic fluid.

If you have them already I wouldnt run them unless your strictly drag racing. I have herd that bouncing (normal riding) will eventually break the pipes. If you dont have them yet, you could spent that money else were on your shee and make it faster.

I would shine them up the best you could. Then have them powdercoated with a translucent black. That way they are black chrome.

What spark plugs do you run?

I run some PIAA H6M bulbs in my banshee. They are the same wattage but are brighter. They have the birght white look.

66mm is kind of the transission point.

It is a common practice to run a light weight oil instead of 10w30 engine oil. It makes it shift better. Hydraulic Fluid I dont know about. I do know that there is some equipment (tractors, loaders) that run the same fluid for there transmissions, and the hydraulic system. It is usually sold in 5 gallon buckets. What are you going to do with the other 4.5 gallons? You can buy a light weight oil that is made for 2 stroke transmissions. It will be wet clutch safe. Try bel ray gear saver 75w make sure you get the right oil. Bel Ray has several different gear savers. You dont want one that is 80w-90 that is a hypoid gear lube made for differentials. The ones you want will just be 75w, 80w, or 85w.

Just get a FAST clutch www.farmandsandtoys.com His clutch is super heavy duity. It comes with everyting you need except the gasket. You can also put a in a pancake berring while your in there. It helps keep the ball and rod from welding together.

I would say your carbs match the port work and pipes. Change it all or leave it all alone.

It is a lockup clutch. No you dont need one. It puts more pressure on the clutch to keep it from slipping. The faster the wights turn the more pressuer is put on the clutch.

Black Chrome is a sweet color for a frame. That is what mine is. Bump for a good guy. Here is a shot for guys wanting to know what it will look like with black plastics.

The timing plate is a good mod too. It allows you to advance the timing. You have 3 options when it comes to a plate. $35 dollar cast plate from ebay $50 dollar billit plate from chariot performance (ebay store) $100 dollar billit plate from Pro Designe. I run the Pro Design plate because I got it for $45. I would go with the 50$ charriot performance plate. The billit plates are a lot nicer than the cast ones. The small deg marks a easier to see and probably machined in more accurate than the cast plate. josh

If your wanting an aftermarket coil I would sugest the Nology coil with Nology Hot Wires. Jeff at fast is going to be the best price. You will have to make a mounting bracket. All you really need to make it is a 1.5 to 2 in pice of angle iron or aluminum. Mount the coil to it. Then mount the bracket to the stock mounting location. Use the old coil to make the holes for the bracket. My banshee seem's to start easer with this coil. Weather mine was on its way out or not who knows. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=46