jbooker82

Its just a preference thing for me. I really doubt one is better than the other. I had a set of dual lines on my raptor when I was running ASR arms. I let them go with the a arms when I sold them because I wanted the single line. I liked how the T is bolted to the frame for a solid anchor point and a nice 90 deg angle out to the wheels. Where the dual lines just kind of hung down and swept out to the wheels.

I like lines with a T too. There is already enough crap going to the handle bars with out adding an extra brake line. The ones I have do replace the steel line with a single braded line down to the T.

You can also use a piece of fuel tube and zipties. You use the fuel tube as a stand off / spacer between the line and a arm.

I would run the real thing if were me.

are you shure it wasn't Yamaha bond on the crank?

Not my video but Fast forward to 1:20. How do you replace the part that the main threads in to? It looks like a cast piece that is held on with 2 tamper resistant torkxs screws. I am sure you can take it off but if Sudco doesn't sell it your cant buy a new one. About your only hope would be to find a junk carb to rob the part off of.

PWK33 and larger have non removable dump tubes. It just cast in to the carb body. According to Sudco's parts catalog it shows that the PWK28's have replacable dump tubes. Part 35 Needle Jet Holder N413-12A00 PWK33 and up http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk.gif PWK28 http://www.sudco.com/Diagrams323728/exppwk28.gif

Yea they can because they just drill the dump tube out. Once you do that your stuck at that size or larger. That's why you cant convert PWK that have been setup for Methanol back to gasoline.

2000 grit on carbon will plug up real fast. It would be like rubbing it with a sheet of note book paper. Not going to get a lot done. I haven't really checked to see why polishing a piston is bad. It just might not help but its better than putting them back in there dirty. I would imagine a rough surface would allow carbon to form and attach easier due to the rough texture. Kind of the same reason why paint and powdercoat sticks better to a sand blasted surface than a smooth polished surface.

I would put new pistons in if your rebuilding it. You can always use sand paper to remove the carbon from the tops of the pistons. If you go this route I would start out with some 320 grit. Then 600, 1000, 2000, 2500 grits. Then polish the tops. That way when they are smooth and polished carbon has a harder time of sticking to them.

I would go with a Hot Rods. You can get them from FAST for $435 or $450 with extra weld. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

Here you go http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834131538 I would like to get an ASUS Transformer tablet. They kind of like the Alien Ware of tablets. I have an ASUS RT-66U wireless 900M router and it has been flawless. I have only had to reset it maybe a hand full of times in the last year.

Samsung had a package deal going for a while, they still might be running it. Tab 2 10.1, Bluetooth keyboard, and an upright dock for $349.

Just ordered mine from Verizon. Wish they would have had the black one in stock but I plan on putting a Black UAG case on it. They did give me $50 bucks off though.

I would still throw in a 4mill long rod crank even if you do not have it ported. Might as well since the crank needs replaced and if your going with a new one get a Genuine Hot Rods 4mill crank from FAST. They have them on their site for $435, vs a vito's knock off for the same price. Look up "Wang Crankshaft" on here and see what you think. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

It is there to keep everything lined up. Other wise the case halfs could be put together out of alignment which would also cause un even pressure on the crank bearings.

The length of the rod. A longer rod puts less side load on the piston skirts. It is for a better reliability.

Yes they are a locating pin. They center the case halfs and cylinders on the case. If they were a simple $1 non needed part Yamaha wouldn't have used them and saved the money for them self. I would get one.

ModQuad was a ProDesign knock off with a softer water pump shaft. So the seal would wear in to the shaft and leak coolant in to the transmission. I would pass on them. If you want a real water pump I would get the Mull Engineering pump. It is a total redesign. Mull also makes a billet water pump gear as well.

It also depends on the coating weather or not it is true ceramic or a ceramic base paint. True ceramic only comes in white and is applied in molten form (3000+ deg F). It is rough in texture almost like a pumice stone. Jet Hot is more of a ceramic base paint. It goes on as a liquid then its cured. Real ceramics insulate better than ceramic based paint.

Or the rivits loosen up until they shear off.

Wouldnt the intake have to be on the other side of the reeds in order to add to crank case volume? I just figured it helped ballance each side out when idling and cruzing at low speeds.

cut it and weld an extension in the middle.

I had a set of 4mill drag ported stock cylinders resleeved by him. Great guy to deal with and was pretty resonalbe on the price. He originally ported the cylinders no better person to resleeve them than the original guy.