jbooker82

I havent ever jetted stock carbs, but from what I gather 310 is kind of big for FMF exhaust and no port work. T5's usually run 310's FMF's usually run 280's I would drop down to a 300 and see how it runs.

What do you mean by one is longer than the other? Are the silencer body's the same length? If the joint were the singer tube and the expansion chamber is egged out you can buy just a new singer tube from toomey instead of the whole silencer. The silencers can also be repacked.

Nope just a spark arrested silencer. They both sound the same. I had FMF SST's with Power Core 2 silencers on my shee when I got it. I have to have a Spark Arrestor where I ride so I bought a pair of Turbine Core 2's. Didnt sound any different, and no power loss was noticed. If you have to have a spark arrested silencer the Turbine Core 2's are a pretty good silencer.

I dont know if you will be able to find a gloss black that will hold up to the heat. Dupli Color's engine paint is rated up to 500 Deg. They have a matte black that is good up to 1200 deg. What I would do is paint the whole expansion chamber with the 1200 deg paint. Let it dry and cure it. Then go back and paint the exhaust with the Gloss 500 deg paint. I would probably leave the first 8 in or so the matte black. That is where the exhaust is going to be the hottest. Probably to hot for the 500 deg paint. Or just get the pipes in the high heat powder coat from the manufacture and paint directly over it with the gloss black, Leaving the first 8 in the powdercoat. The first layer of pc or 1200 deg paint will help insulate the heat so it wont damage the 500 deg paint as easy.

well if your at sea leve then 21's is what I woudl run. If your were around 2000 ft then I would go with 20's

When I orded replacement peddals from Jeff at fast he told me to run them on High or they wont last.

Yea just rund the NGK's you can side gap them to make the spark more exposed. It is an old hot roder's trick.

Why not just run Klotz Supertechniplate all year round. 80% synthetic and 20% Benol Caster oil and it stays blended at lower temps unlike striaght benol.

I woudl say you need less fuel if you fouled plugs.

I have no idea. Never jetted a mikuni carb on a banshee. You might be better off making a new post with the correct carb in the subject.

Then again you can run 16cc domes on pump fuel at 5000 ft above sea level. The are supose to be at 151 psi at that altitude. If you ran 16cc at sea level you would be at 217 psi.

Depens on what elevation you ride at and if your machine has bee ported. If your running a stock port at sea lever I would stick with 21cc. At sea lever with 20cc domes your going to be at aroudn 169-170 psi. Too much for pump fuel. Now if your rideing at 1000 ft 20cc domes woudl put you at 156 psi wich would probably be ok depending on what your timing is set at. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

For an Intake get a boss racing intake. They have a built in crossover tube. They are thick and angled so they move the carbs up and back so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. PM Dajogejr he can should be able to get you a good deal on the intake. Here is my intake it is a boss racing.

I ran PWK 33's on my mx ported machine and like them. That is what I would go with as well. Get the carbs from FAST I think his site says they are 160 a pice. I would aslo recomend getting the following. A Pair of taller adjsters Pair of metal Idle adjustemt scews (PWK's come with plastic) Pair of Lighter tension side springs And a carb sync tool to set them up right. For jetting you will probably need to be in the range of these 160-150 for the mains 48-45 pilot's Stock PWK's come with CGL needles you can try them out. Most people end up running the CEL (shorter) If you have stock carbs with the tor's elimintator that carb cable should be the same as what you will need for the PWK's.

Power Core 2 is a standard silencer Turbine Core 2 is a Spark Arrested Silencer.

It changes how easily they opean up. You will get better throttle responce if you put them on low. Look how it holds the reeds. When it is on high it pinches it farther down the pedal making it stiffer. When you put it on low it holds it farther back up the reed. If you put them on low you wont get near the life out of them because they will be opeaing up farther and faster wich will shorten the pedal life. josh

I woudl think lowering the port hights woudl make for more midrange wich would "feel" like more power. I think if I was going to try that running a stock stroke crank, I would have a 4 mill cub cylinder and have 2 mm decked off the bottom and not have to mess with the head. Or if I was running a 4 mill crank take a 7 mill cylinder and have 1.5mm milled off the bottom. Wonder how 10mill cylinder would run with 3mm shaved off the bottom and have a 4 mill stroker crank?

you want them so you can read the high on both sides. It sets the tension of the reeds. If you put them on low they wont last near as long. Look at how that bar is bent. josh

Popping on deceleration is a sign of it being lean on the pilot circuit. Try turning out the fuel screws. If you end up more than 3 turns out you need to go up a size on the pilot. Reset the fuel scew to 2 truns out and try it again. josh

What happend? Did a bunch of people get to gether and not buy gas on a certian day, forcing the gas companies to drop there prices?

It is an Enamal spray pant. It goes on smooth but as it drys it gets a hammered look.

It could be your jetting. That lever on the LH side of the handle bars will help too.

I had Dave Moore do mine. I think it was 40 bucks plus shipping.

That depends on what elevation your at and wether or not your banshee has been ported. josh

Here is some really good info on Keihin Carb jetting too. http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_k...n-jetting.phtml