jbooker82

If I had those two bike I would run this setup. Bike one with trinity cub cylinders. Shearer small bores with PWK35's Bike two with drag ported 4mill stock cylinders. CPI small bores and PWK33's What fun is it to have 2 of the exact same thing? That way you can swap pipes see how each motor reacts to the different exhausts. They are both inframe drag pipes but they do have a little different feel. Both will be 100x better than t5's on both engine builds.

It may look retarded but I will take it over any other production bumper in an unexpected head to head meet.

I run a PRM Summit on my raptor. It has busted a few head lights on accidental collisions on the tight wooded trails I ride. It is probably going to be to big and goddy for you if you like the stock bumper. http://prm-atv.com/MN.asp?pg=products&grp=57&mfr=3

Ac Racing Dirt Screen. I painted the center black now but dont have any pics of that one. I would deffinatly want to run a bumper. You never know what might happen. Might deflect a shot the the a arms or worse yet directly to your frame.

Yea I would say that is what your looking at if you do the work your self, figuring in a selection of jets, needles, and gaskets.

Forged pistons also distribute heat better. Cast pistons hold heat in the head more than forged. Where a forged piston will conduct the heat away from the piston head and in to the skirts. That is part of the reason why a Forged piston requires a little more clearance. I look at it this way. How many people do you see running forged pistons that race professionaly.

you can run your stock carbs for now. PWK33's woudl be a nice upgrade. carbs run 165 a pice or so from fast. billit intake with built in crossover tube will run you 125 or so. custome cut domes for the stroker would be 70 bucks from noss machine you will need a set of wiseco 795 series pistons for the long rod stroker crank.

My banshee has a set of Black Lables and I have bend the fronts pretty easy. Just barly scuffing or scraping a tree and it lips the bead out. I take a hammer and pound it back in. I would get the Reds. The price difference isnt worth having to buy new AGANIN after you tear the black lables up. You might see if they make a wheel with the rolled lip like the stockers have. josh

He is trying to make some serious money off of you. Jeff at FAST sells a hot rods 4 mill long rod crank for 435. You really should start out with a new set of jugs. Once you port for the stock stroke crank you cant port them for the 4 mill crank. If you chose to run it with the cylinders you have I would run a cut stock head or a cool head with cut stroker domes. josh

The proper way to trun down a flywheel is to mount a crankshaft stub in the lathe and then mount the fly wheel on the crank stub. Other wise you run the risk of not getting it even.

You pretty much have 2 choices for inframe drag pipes. CPI's and Shearer's CPI's come on a little sooner and Shearer's have a little more top end. I went with CPI's on my banshee because I wanted the power to come on a little sooner. Both pipes come with ok chrome. It isnt the best, and has been known to peel. If you want show chrome then you need to get them from www.cascadeinnovations.net That is where I got my CPI's from. If your wanting the CPI's with standard chrome or bare steel then PM Frogger on here, see what he can do for you. Here is a pic of my CPI's. It will be a huge change if you go from Pro Circuits to CPI's or Shearer's. I ran T5's on the motor in my sig before I got CPI's. It was a huge change going from the T5's to CPI's As for the other bike running T5's what kind of port job does it have?

Unfortunatly RC is just like the banshee habit. Your never going to get the money you put in to it back out of it.

Is this machine ported? If not, then that is where you need to spend some money. I would stick with dual stock carbs before I went with a 2:1. A 2:1 suposedly helps out in the mid range but it kills the top end.

You need to ditch the Pro Circuit pipes on that bike. It has a crappy low end because the cylinder is drag ported right out of the box. It has a crappy top end because the pipes are choaking it on the top end. Drag Ported Cylinder = Drag Pipe (inframe or out frame) I would recomend a pair Keihin PWK 35's.

If the combustion chamber o ring was bad I would think that the leaking compression would be going in to the cooling system. That would cause antifreeze to puke out of the radiator. josh

Send your cylinders to me. I will port them with a hammer and chisel for free.

IF I had a cub I would run it on PWK35's. If you want a smaller carb you could go with PWK33's. I wouldnt go any smaller than the 33's though.

Call Offenhouser they make all kinds of wiered stuff.

I got the older 660 Raptor. I have a 4 mill stroker crank and a 102mm bore piston (720cc) it is fun to ride. I couldnt get rid of ethier my banshee or raptor. They are totaly different. If your TRUELY doing trail riding the raptor is the machine to have. The torque of the big cc' motor's is fun to ride with too.

Looks good. I have just a CR kill switch on my bars. I mouted my head light togel switch on a pice of aluminum strap that is sandwitched between the fuel tank and the fram. Kind of like the hid a key's. I foud some rubber covers for the togle switches. That way water wont work its way down in to the switch. josh

It probably isnt on the schmatic because it probably comes with the whole clutch basket. Just like the gear. You cant buy them seperate. I dont know what it is used for because I have a Hindson billit basket. josh

:thumbsup: That is what I would run too. I ran them on my Mx port and am running them on my 4mill drag ported stock cylinders. I woudlnt spend the money to go up from 26mm to 28mm. I also woudlnt want a knock off carb. Lot of people run them but I would just as soon have a Genuine Keihin carb. Make sure you get a boss intake with the carbs. It moves them up and back so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm.

Besides being lean How do you plan on controling the Idle Speed. With and opeaining that big your banshee will be Idling at 7,000 rpm.

No the one he is talking about goes behind the gear on the clutch basket. I dont know what it is for.

If your wanting to buy a high dollar axle I would go with RPM Dominator. Much better than LSR and Durablue. http://www.team-rpm.com/atv_axles_dominator_2.htm