jbooker82

I have herd of putting some epoxy (jb weld) on the splines of the axle and then sliding the hubs on. Helps keep everything nice and tight.

Dont try to install the whole head at once. Put an oring on a dome. then set the dome on the cylinder. Then put the shell on top of the domes. Much better than fightng every thing.

I have seen some stock 660 baskets come appart. At least with the banshee all it really does is chew the pieces up. On the raptor it plugs the oil pump sump screen. Starving the crank and cam of oil.

Why would that do it. When the banshee is running in gear with the clutch pulled in the center hub, and pressure plate are not turning. When the problem happens is when the clutch is pulled in for long periods of time when the banshee is moving. IE Costing down big hills, Towing it with the clutch pulled in, letting it winde down on the dyno with the clutch pulled in.

That is the nice thing about the direct drive lockup cover. That vent is elimintated. How did you like those CPI's out in the sand?

I know the price is the huge down fall. I started out just buying pieces. Bought the clutch because I needed it. Then thought well a billit basket would be nice. A month later I bought the inner hub and pressure plate. Installed it all at once. I know I dont need the strenght of the inner hub and pressure plate, but I liked the Idea of forcing oil in to the clutch pack. josh

That is the bad part. I bought mine from Yamaha of Troy on ebay. They were the cheapest I could find at the time. I found a place that is cheaper. $214 for the billit hub. List for $284 http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/cat...-inner-hub.aspx Pressure Plate is $120 Lists for $160 http://www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/cat...sure-plate.aspx

It is for a 660 Raptor. I still have my stock basket, hub, and pressure plate.

To bad yamaha doenst make gytr clutch pices for the banshee like they do the raptor. I have the whole ball of wax on my raptor. GYTR Basket, Gytr Pressure Plate, GYTR Inner Hub, and GYTR Clutch. The pressure plate has holes drilled at an angle so it forces oil in to passages in the Inner Hub. The inner hub has holes drilled in to the splines so it kind of forces oil in to the clutch pack.

When your putting the head back on take the 90 deg elbo off the back of the PD head. Then install the head and get everything torqued down. Put the elbow in the hose and then bolt it to the back of the cylinder head. That way you not fighting the rear radiator hose and trying to keep everything lined up. I would recomend using vasoline on the o rings to hold them in to place. I wouldnt use wheel bearing grease. Vasoline will melt with heat so you wont have chuncks floating around in your coolant system.

Rocky Mountain sells Toomey Pipes for cheaper than Toomey and PowerBrokerz.

What are you wanting to order from toomey?

Here is another explination if you didnt get the other one. I ment venturi but I put an E instead of an I

Hold on let me explain this again. Venturi is what I MENT to say.

I guess I didnt realize I was on www.SpellingBeeHQ.com talking about a banshee.

What was the out side air temp. A carb does get colder due to the venture effect.

Too bad you can read the word English that is wrote in English at the top RH side of the page. It does look like it would make the air box flow better but who runs an air box. I would buy a good pair of pods with outerwears. josh

www.cascadeinnovations.net

Yep do the stroker. You will need the following Hot Rods 4mill Long Rod crank from fast $435 A set of Wiseco 795 Series Pistons and cool head with stroker domes or a stock head that has been rechamberd for the stroker crank. josh

Could be. It could also be the fact that they ran 32:1 vs. your 50:1. I guess I would rather have my oil hang around vs being burnt off. I really dont care what color the piston heads are. I would rather have a nice coat of oil on the skirts. In all reality you can go buy the cheapest 2 stroke oil and it wont cause your engine to lockup, it just might not last as long.

Wonder what the fine print means?

AmsOil LINK Look at the specs at the bottom of the page. Compare them to Klotz Super Techniplate. Klotz Supertechniplate Data LINK Amsoil Flash point. 198 deg Super Techniplate Flash point. 460 deg Flash point it the temperature where it starts to burn but when the ignition source is removed it will not continue to burn. Fire point is were it starts to burn and will keep burning on it own when the ignition source is removed. Usually the Fire Point is a few degrees higher than the Flash Point I bet your banshee's cylinders run hotter than 200 deg. Amsoil Viscosity. cSt @ 40 deg 40.9 Super Techniplate cSt @ 40 deg 200 At 100 deg super techniplate is like 50 weight oil. Wich one do you think gives a better protective film of oil. I would bet on the thicker one. Klotz Benol has even higher specs. Klotz Benol Data LINK RPM Limit = Unlimited Here is Klotz R50 for the heck of it. Klotz R50 Data LINK I am not knocking Amsoil just pointing out some facts. Klotz's other oils like Motorcycle Techniplate TC-W2 and TC-W3 have specs comparable to your Amsoil Dominator. Just when using oil that can be used for automatic oil injection it is going to be a thiner oil so it can work with the injection pump. I figure that I might as well use a good thicker oil since you dont have to worry about oil injection.

Yep you now have a welded ball and rod since you towed your banshee with the clutch pulled in.

gregrob tested out a Mod Quad. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=92200&st=0

Get a TM Desingworks. It is the only way to go. There is a reason why it is the most expensive.