jbooker82

That is still a pipe that should only be used on a stock cylinder with a dune port. Anything more agressive than that will be killed by the pipe. Poorboy you should be able to sell your pipes and buy a set of cpi's. Paul turners have a high resale value especially if your chorme is in great shape. When you get ready to buy if you want the best chrome get them from www.cascadeinnovations.net If a mid grade chrome is ok with you then PM Frogger on here. He can hook you up with killer prices. tell him I send ya. josh

The only way I would get one from a dealer is if I absolutly needed it. Let us know how much they want for one. josh

Just so you know you could have gotten that crank for $435 from fast. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=78

They are RIS Designs One end threads together and clamps an o ring down for a tight seal. The filters I am running I got from Cascade too. I tried the 20 deg angled flange and they were to angled. I sent them back to cascade and they sent me some 10 deg angle. They fit perfict. josh

PM MarineNYC he wants some PWK's bad. You would pretty much have them sold if your asking for a desent price. I think all the Superflow mod is they polish the inside of the carb bell and bore. It makes for a smoother flow. They dont actually bore the carb. josh

I would think they take a lot of lateral (pulling on the end of the crank) force off. You still have a high hp motor trying to force the gears appart during hard launches. I would go with a tz berring if your only doing one. Might as well put a max load on the stator side of the crank while your in there. josh

Boss intake with PWK33's (same carb body as the 35's) Mine were real close with FMF SST's, T5's and Currenlty CPI's all only on the LH singer tube. Get you a pair of Heat wraps. You only need the short ones. I run them on my LH tube. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...ore_dept_id=168

I would say you have a loose motor mount. Guess it is time for a Port job if you want more top end. It is the next bigest step after pipes.

In the end it is all about the same. ATV's and Dirt bikes just hid there battle scars better. Seems like they show up little by little until you have a ragged out atv or dirt bike. Where a street bike goes from bran new looking to raged out the first time you lay it over or wheelie over.

It is not the sole reason but it is part of the reason. I am not saying the oil filters sole purpose is to filter out dirt clods. Go get your owners manual to your automobiel out. See if it recomends you to change your oil more often if you dirve in dusty conditions.

I have a billit one for the same reason why your buying the Ricky Stator Plate over the RM stator plate. Much better craftsman ship. josh

A single carb will Kill your top end, but hay your thumb wont hurt.

PJ's dont come in 35mm they come in 34's I have had both. I started out with PJ34's and ditched them for PWK33's. Best thing I could have done. Like said above the Idle adjustment and choak circuit sucks. They have a thick oval slide vs. the PWK's having the thinner D shaped slide. The PJ is just old technology.

I would imagine that they run a Factory Peroformance Part. Like a GYTR. When your a factory rider or any sponcered rider you dont have a choice what you run. IF K&N's are pices of crap then why do Baja 1000 Trophy Trucks run them? I dont think there are any other race vehicles that run in a dustier condition than them. If your super paranoid about dirt getting in to your engine, but want the best flowing filter then run an Air Force Pre Cleaner around a K&N. The add a 2% air flow restriction but stop 90% of fine dirt before it hits the K&N. One more thing. Any air filter will let dirt though foam or fabric. Why do you think 4 stroke's have an oil filter? http://www.knfilters.com/airforcewraps.htm

I would go with the gnarly's. I have never ran them before but if your not after the ulitmate high hp then having a silencer with a built in spark arrestor is well worth it. It beats the hell out of buying those aftermaket sparkies and having to clamp them on your silencers with a hose clamp. I use to have FMF SST's they were a nice pipe. I have to have a spark arrestor too so I ran jus the Turbine Core 2's josh

K&N makes a coars foam outerwear

What spark plugs were you running. B8ES or BR8ES?

I dont have any with the vapor on. With Trail tech's dash it is in the same place where my temp gauge is. There is a pic of it on the first page. I can get you some in a couple of days or so. josh

Get packing that is the fiberglass matt. Then wrap the core tightly. Then wrap the the fiber glass mat with a couple of wraps of masking tape. The tigher you wrap it the longer it will last. My CPI's cam with regular house insulation in the silencers. josh

I have renthal bars and dont have a problem with the bar pad blocking the view. I guess I dont have my bars going straight up and down like ape hangers.

Or you can buy them from cascade. They get there cpi pipes bare and have there chrome plater do the work.

That temp gauge worked good until my voltage regulator came unplugd while I was riding. The 25-30 volts smoked it. I now have the trail tech vapor as well. It is a nice unit. I would recomend getting there bar clamp / dash. It is a nice unit.

I woudl get Pro Circuits or T5's if he doesnt plan on getting it ported. CPI's are a drag pipe and they dont work as well as t5 or PC's with stock porting.

the easy's way to get them chromed is to put them in a box and send it to blk_banshee or bk_banshee. He is the one who did the a arms you seen on here.

The local hard ware store more than likley doesnt sell the right stuff. It isnt rated for the temperature. When your banshee warms up the hoses get super soft and flemsy. There is a reason why the real WOCO clear radiator hose kit is 100 bucks. It isn just relabled braded hose like the cheap ebay kits you see.