jbooker82

Changing the diameter wont solve his problem. He is rich from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. Diameter only comes in to play in the 1/4 range. He is out of adjustment since he has the clip in position #1. So he needs to put a longer needle.

That is exactly what I ment. Trying to explain that there is more to porting then just hoging out the ports to make them flow more. When you port a 2 stroke you change the durations witch is what happens when you swap cams in a 4 stroke. josh

So why not use a ported stock cylinder that will have a better midrange? I tell you where it went wrong. A self proclaimed banshee pro started it by dissing a member for "being in the game this long and not knowing what is going on". I will give him credit for saying he was sorry. Then in another post about "welding the ball and rod" he says that he has never ever herd of this happining. He doesnt see how it is even possible. You would think that an avid banshee owner that has had a banshee for 20+ years would have herd of this happining. I am not saying happining to him, but just hearing about it. He claims to hang out with all the big NW builders. They bring up cascade as one of them. The funny thing is, cascade makes a pancake berring mod to keep this form happining. You would think it might have came up at least once in a conversation. Sorry man when you havent herd of the ball and rod welding, then recomend t5's for a cub I am not buying it.

Thoes are the ones I have. First bore is 66mm last bore is 68mm. I can see where those huge sleeves choak the transfers, but the ones I have are not really noticeable. I bought my 4mill cylinders ported but they needed to be resleeved due to a cracked sleeve. I got the cylinders for a really good price. I have about $450 in the cylinders. Like the guys said it isnt cost effective if you have to pay for a port job then pay for the resleeve.

Do you have any pint glasses?

I would use 0000 it is finer than 000. Simi Chrome is a great polish. I belive that is what theshee uses when he polishes stuff for people. When your all done wipe the pipes down with Acetone. It will remove all the left over polish and finger prints for that spot free shine. josh

I would try the CGL's it is the same taper and diameter just longer. I believe pwk33's come with cgl's from keihin. Here is a good keihin tech article http://www.duncanracing.com/techfaq/Tech_k...n-jetting.phtml josh

Where the hell have you been. Long time no see. We all figured you were locked up or swimming with the fishes.

If your out of adjustment with the CEL's then put the CGL's in. They have the same taper and diameter as the CEL's but they are the next step up (longer) needle. I woudl start out in the middle and see how it runs. josh

I believe 104.

I would say you would deffinatly be looking for a Dune port. A dune port is supose to give you a strong mid range and top end. It will take away from the bottom end. There is generaly 4 types of port jobs. MX port wich is geard twards making bottom end. It doesnt give a huge increase in mid range or top end. Trail port. It's gains more in the midrange Dune port. gains in the mid range but a lot more top end at the expence of the bottom end. Drag port. Big gains on the top end but at the expence of the midrange.

No but you can feel the grit in the bearings, and you can use solvent and an air compressor to blow directly through the bearings to get the grit out. That way you dont destroy the bearings that still could be good.

Just make sure when you buy it your getting a straigh weight oil. 75w, 80w or 85w Bel Ray has a 80w-90 gear saver too. It is a hypoid gear oil made for differentails.

I would go with a more agressive port job and run a dual PWK 33 carb setup. A 2:1 carb kills top end power. A nice dune/play port with T5's and a pair of PWK's would be a nice mid to top end gain. If you have a little more cash to play with I would thow a 4mill crank in there. That will help out with the mid range. The crank will give you more midrange to ride on. Or you can exchange the extra midrange (more agressive port job) and gain even more top end. 4 strokes have low end grunt 2 strokes have top end HP.

It isnt the way they mount up that causes the problems. It is the extra weight that causes the problems. I perfer to run neither. Boss Racing intake with internal crossover machined in to the intake. josh

A port job is going to be a huge improvemet compaird to just upping the compression and running race fuel. Get one that suits your riding style. Porting is the next biggest HP gainer after putting a set of aftermarket pipes on. josh

You just dont get it. The guy was complaining that he cant deal with the mid range loss caused by running CPI or Shearer pipes, but yet he is running a drag ported cylinder that doesnt have a mid range.

I have a set of Duro Hookups on my raptor they work great. 6ply radial tire. They are almost an exact copy of the Maxxis I Razr. I got them from Rocky Mountain as well.

I to have herd that. Lectrons are only good for WOT drag passes.

Yep the v forces go inbetween the cylinders and carbs. There already is a reed valve but the vforces are a better designe. Porting must be done by a shop. It isnt like porting the head of a 4 stroke. They also opean up the ports in the sides of the cylinders. This changes when air and fuel come in and the exhaust goes out. It is like putting a Hot Cam in a 4 stroke. josh

Porting will give you the most HP per dollar spent. If you really want to pump it up do a 4 mill crank and a port job. :biggrin:

I would emagine that the end of the rod is mushroomed. The best way to fix it is to split the cases. Might as well have your crank trued and welded, anda modded shift star while you are in there

take the clutch actuator out and see if the end of the rod is mushroomed. You will have to take a dremal and grind the mushroom off or split the cases. josh

The paint is supose to help insulate the metal for the first couple inches. Helps keep the actual pipe temp down so it doesnt blue the chrome. Kind of the same reason why Jet Hot coats the insides too. I did it on my T5's when they were new and I never got any blueing but they still had the brown look for the first 5 inches or so. I done it to my CPI's and have no discoloration at all. I think the quality of the chrome job aslo plays in to the mix. josh

Nice Guys glad some one is bringing some proof.