jbooker82

If you want to hand it to them then go this route. 4mill Stroker Crank Dune Port CPI Small Bore Pipes PWK 33's with a Boss Intake V Force 3's with Cascades Stuffers Custome Noss Machine Domes for Pump Fuel and the 4 mill stroker crank +4 Timing

It is a pretty straight forward install. About the only think I can think of going wrong is having an oring come out of its groove. Then you pinch it and it leaks. Just use some vasoline on the O rings to help hold it in place. josh

Moose makes a set of chains. They have a V bar weled on the links for extra bite. acording to my dennis kirk you need part number 51-2212 36 bucks. www.denniskirk.com

Typical thing with buisnesses. As there products become more popular the price goes up and the quality control and customer service goes down.

If your running a big billit aluminum intake that has a big squar opeaining on the back side then I would deffinatly run them. If your running stock intakes then I wouldnt run them. You want the smoothest transision possible for the best flow. Having a big square hole dump in to the small round hole of the stock v force stuffer isnt good for flow at all. josh

billit aluminum does conduct heat betterh than cast aluminum. I dont know if you would be able too tell just by feeling it though.

I would go with the wickeds over the asr's. They use ball joints instead of those heim joints. I had a pair of ASR's on my raptor. I didnt like having to adjust the caster (the tilting back of the top of the spindel) If you want a pair of A arms that you can just thow on and adjust the camber and toe, get a pair of HD USA A arms. I believe they are the I3500 kit. Any other kit that doesnt have the adjustable a arms at the frame mounting point would work too. josh

Yep RK GB520EXW chain. It is rated at 8500 breaking strength. The manual should have a spec for measuring the chain. I think they your supose to measure the distance from pin to pin. josh

just make sure you put a little bigger dome in or run race fuel. That way it doesnt happen again. josh

I aslo just set each dome over the bore. Then slide the shell down on the domes. Sure beats trying to hold the domes in the head and trying to keep o rings from falling out.

No you dont use the stock head gasket. There should be O rings to seal it up. 1 O ring on each dome, Then a 2 o rings around the head where it seals against the cylinders, and 2 o rings down in the head shell to seal the shell to the top of the domes. Use some vasoline on the orings to hold them in place. That way they are not falling out. I would also take the fitting of the back of the head that hooks to the radiator hose. That way you can put the head on and not fight the rear radiator hose and trying to keep the o rings from falling out at the same time.

The best feature about the TM case saver is it braces against the cases. It doenst totaly rely on just the bottom 3 bolts to absorb the impact. There is a reason why it is the most expensive case saver.

I would recomend bk_banshee or blk_banshee. I cant remember his exact name. Do a search on the user name and you should dig up some of his work. He is a good guy to deal with.

I can pull whelies on snow pack with 4snows on my raptor.

Yep like Bansh-eman it is supose to keep hot carbon from coming out the exhaust pipe and starting a fire. It does suck having to run them on a 2 stroke. They need constant cleaning due to the oil pluging them up. On a 4 stroke it isnt a big deal because they dont plug up with oil. All they are is a fine screen dome that fits in the end cap. One of the places I ride at is in a National Forest so a spark arrestor is manditory. theshee polished them for me. I think he charged 60 buck pluse a little return shipping. Here is what they looked like before.

Here are my spark arrestors for my CPI's. They are the trinity spark arrestors. You will have to mod them to make them fit. The core hole needs to be drilled out from 1" to 1 1/8" The three bolt holes that hold the end cap on wont line up so you ill need to re drill the 3 mounting holes. Or you can do those ugly clamp on sparkies.

Yep girls with pasties. I belive rock hard is kind of the signiture name the helmit is really an Oneal. Kind of like Troy Lee uses Shoie

How did you come out on those CPI's http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...15&start=15

To bad you couldnt talk cpi or shearer in to having some made out of stainless.

That is cool. That last post wasnt really supose to be an atack. It was supose to be an explination to what led up to the (you clearly have the wong cylinders sitting on top of your cases) comment that got this big ball rolling. It was more or less inteded to be a jab to see how you responded. I just figured you flipped 2001 some crap so I would fip some your way. josh

The cash is sent for the BHQ Checkerd Flag Mug and Pint glass. :biggrin:

That I couldnt tell you. If the cgl's were still to rich from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle and since you cant get a longer needle I would probably start out by going with a leaner taper ( E length and K or J diameter. Then if I ran out of clip positions then I would go to a G lenght needle.

I dont know if I would say it is leaner. The B is going to be leaner in transision from 3/4 to wot due to the taper of the needle. But it is a shorter needle so it will be richer from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle. First letter is taper wich is controls the transision from 3/4 to wot. Middle letter is length wich has has the broadest affect. 1/4 to 3/4. You switch the lenght it makes a change over the whole needle range. Last letter is the diameter wich controls the transision from the pilot circuit to 1/4 throttle.

If your banshee is stock port I would go for the PT Mids. CPI's should really be used with at least a dune port job.