jbooker82

Yep and finding out that it broke by having the radiator over boil, and destroying a top end.

my tube doesnt hook to anything on the handle bars. It just loops up and down inbetween the steering stem.

Tygon fuel tube is that bright yellow tubing. It stays super sof and flexable. It doesnt get hard like other fuel tubings do. You can kind of see how I routed mine. It sticks down blow the bottom of the frame probably one inch or so.

I have been told to stay away from those little vint tube caps. They are going to do the same thing that the stock non gutted cap dose. I have actually herd of them sticking and not letting air in. I just run some Tygon fuel line clear down the frame for my vent. I didnt like were the stock hose ended down inbetween the fuel tank and tank side covers. A little fuel would splash out down there and I would have a bunch of dirt and oil start forming there.

Hot Rod cranks dont use the nubs they have O rings on the bearings. I think they just have a clip on the PTO side bearing.

Run the V force 3's with Cascade Innovations Reed Retainers. They will match up really nice to the big square holes on the back side of your boss intake. 3's come with the small round hole insert. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/ne...tore_dept_id=83

Man your quck.

I got my carbon fiber cover from Alba. I think they have a silver carbon fiber one.

Yea the VP 5 gallon can is the only way to go. I have had other No Name race fuel cans and the threads that the hose ethire strip out, or the cap cracks, or the vent leaks. No problems with the VP can though. I run the white ones so I can see how much fuel I have left.

Glad to see you make the better choice, But your on your own for this part.

Good luck bro. Hopefully you get a good seal otherwise you might be splitting the cases to replace a melted crank from an air leak.

I think engine ice is just a coolant antifreeze that has a tiny amount of dish soap, Or what ever is in it does the same thing. Here is an experiment for you. Take a Frying pan and fill it up with water and put it on the stove and start to boil it. You will notice that bubbles form on the bottom. This same thing suposdly happens in your cylinders and in the head when it heats up. When the water is just about to boil in the frying pan put just a drop or two of dish soap in. It will break the surface tension between the bubbles and the bottom of the pan. That way you dont have air against the surface wich allows for more sufrace area for the coolant to make contact and Cool more effectivly.

I believe it is -24 or -27 deg F

Or just make a square cradel out of 2x4's

ON top of the rear fuel tank mounts. That way you can just take the seat off and there is your key. I tried one from Mod Quadd and the thing was to short. The bolt holes didnt even come close to lining up.

I like seeing the velvet seat covers with a trash bag over them when there is any hint of a little water.

You might try fliping the top a arm over.

Yep get a boss racing intake. It moves the carbs up and back so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. If you get a boss intake and your going to run POD's then I would get the 10 deg angled flange ones. I tried 20's with my setup and it was to much. You should also get a pair of short heat wraps from cascade. It will keep the pipes from melting the outer wears. josh

Yea it could be the cold weather. I know Klotz doenst recomend running there Benol caster oil at temps below 35 deg F Klotz Benol LINK 927's web page says seperation may occure at 35 deg. Read under "Caution" Maxima 927 LINK

I run PWK33's with my engine in my sig. If you were strictly dragin then I would go with the 35. Since your duning too I would go with the 33's,

That is what I ran with my PJ's with SST's and T5's on a mx ported cylinders. I did make the switch to PWK's and ended up at the 48-45 pilot. Seems like PJ's needed a larger pilot jet. Maybe because they are not as efficant at pulling fuel through the jet. josh

for pj's I would recomend CEK needles 50-52 pilot 150-160 mains If you havent bough the carbs yet then go with PWK's they are a much better carb. josh

I run a cascade pancake with my direct drive setup.

I would go with a 4mill ported stock cylinder engine. The 4 mill gives you a harder midrange pull and helps add some torque. Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank you cannot have them reported for the 4 mill. So if your thinking about doing a 4 mill I would just bite the bullit and do it. Get the port job that taylors your riding style. How tight are the trails that you ride? If your climbing hills I would go for a dune port. For carbs I would run PWK 33's.