jbooker82

The Air Striker carb has 4 vents and 2 fins in the front side of the carb to help guid air under the slide at Idle or off Idle. I belileve the air striker carb is only offered in 35mm and 38 or 39mm Air striker carb. Regular PWK

Or you could just buy a new Pressure Plate for 20 bucks and not Use one that is WORN out.

I run a tm designe works magnetic drain plug in both my Banshee and Raptor. It must not be the brand of the one that came appart because it came with an Aluminum washer/seal and not a fiber one.

I would say you really have two choices when it come down to it. It really depends on what style of paddle you want. The sand star is one of the best if not the best v paddle tires out there. The other option is a straight blade. Skat Trak is the clear winner. I dont know if the dune stars are supose to hook up better than the sand stars but turn better than a straight blade. They look like AMS Aero's. josh

I cant say for sure. Mine makes a noise at idle but I cant remember if it did befoe the lock up or not. I just write it off as general banshee noise.

Yea I would go with ethire a 33 or 35 Keihin PWK. I run 33's on my drag ported 4 mill with cpi's

It would be cool if CP took the time to cast some cylinders with lower port hights to make a mean mid range cylinder.

Whoa Dajogejr I didnt realize you had your TORS removed. I guess now I know thanks to your sig.

33's or 35's will be fine on a cub. 28's will be kind of small. Since you alreay bought it you might as well try it to see how you like it. If your willing to buy a set of carbs and are not sure if you will be keeping the cylinders I would go with the 33's. That way you if you go back to a ported stock cylinder you will still have a good pair of carbs for them. If your going to be dead set on keeping the cub then I would go with the 35's. Both sets of carbs will be fine on a cub. josh

I was thinking that the discoloration he may have been seeing was from when they heat the webs up to press the crank together. Some times they have a little blue or purple color on the webs. josh

Yea dude you just use a bunch of bottoms. It is already preshaped.

Yes it comes unported. All that means is the casting is still rough. Like in this picture. You can see the small intake ports on the sides are a rough casting. They need to be cleaned up. So your trail port is just going to be cleaing up the castings. The cylinder is still cast with port timings that favor drag racing. A raising exhaust port shifts the power from the bottom end to the top end. It creats more power but it is also makes the power at a higher RPM. The cylinder already roughly has an exahsut port. It isnt like RDZ is going to knock the hole in the cylinder for the exhaust port depending on what port job you want. A cylinder that makes 90hp 2 stroke out of the box isnt going to have any low end.

PWK's all the way. PJ's are a good carb and have been around for a while, but it is just old technology.

Where exactly did the crank shaft get discolored. I dont seen anything out of the ordinary. If it didnt egg the wrist pin end out of the conecting rod, I would just clean it up real good, and run it. I dont think anybody changes the crank every time a piston lets loose.

Yea they are. They have a little wider spacing than the Maxxis I Razr's but they are still 6 ply radials.

I would say a billit basket because your not supose to be able to move the gear on the basket. The coushins are shot and you cant replace them on the stock basket.

Yea you can use that testor but it wont be as accurate. You will have to use that long adaptor threaded on to the hose. Well that hose has a passage drilled in it and a little chamber. I had one like that and the adaptor held 3cc's of fluid. So that is like adding 3cc's to the combustion chamber volume. The best testers have a seperate hose for ever style of spark plug. That way they can have the schrader valve in the verry tip. josh

I would say it was started by a chain break and the crack grew. Or the roughness of the metal allowed stress to build up and form a crack. That is why all your conecting rods in drag engines are pollished smooth. There is no rough castings for a stress riser to occure and lead to a failuer. Do you have all of your motor mounts tight, including the bottom ones? josh

There are lots of good people to deal with Passion Racing FAST Herr Jugs Big Bucks and Longer wait. A&S K&T Redline Looks like Grand River Racing is starting to come back. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...7&viewitem=

If you get it ported and stroked it will. I dont think the crank contributes to much of the aditional fuel consumption. The port job is the big drinker.

A port job is the next big increase after pipes. What type of terrain do you ride in? Any mud or water? I would ditch the whole air box and run 2 k&n's clamped right on the carbs.

I Razr's do have wide spacing.

Is it the full blown Power Valve Cheetah or the NON power valve cheetah cub. The cub just runs banshee reeds. I belive the Power Valve Cheetah uses honda cr500 reeds.

A stock stroke crank from fast runs $400 a 4mill long rod crank from fast runs $435. I would say you would be retarded not to especially if you need a new crank anyway.

Lightly bead blast them.