jbooker82

OU game?

I think people have been success full using a rekus on other modles. It replaces a fiber and it expands when the engine rpms come up.

It will cost you the same as starting over with new cylinders but if you like the ones you have it might be worth the time and money. You could always go with a 66mm-68mm big bore sleeve while your at it. I had 550 sunk in to a top end to be resleeved. That was including the finish bore and pistons. I would have the guy who ported the cylinders do the work. That way he can blend the new sleeves to match his current work.

I proably would. The one you bought is probably more like separate vacuum gauges, the ones that FAST sells' is more like a mass air flow meter. It is a lot easier to use. I don't know how the gauge ones hook up to banshee.

You can upgrade to windows 8.1 for free. It has an option to boot to the desktop, and to disable a lot of the motion commands so its more like running 7.

I would buy the correct bolts. They have a specific thread / shoulder length that keeps you from turning them in to far.

Is it the one with the two or four gauges that you hook up with a hose to each carb?

Make it so it goes in to eco mode and runs on one cylinder at part throttle.

If they need rebuilt I probably wouldn't have bought them. If your wanting a larger carb then I would have went with PWK33's. You can get a new pair from FAST for $319 how much are you going to have in your carbs by the time you have purchased, rebuilt, and bored? And they are still going to be a used set of carbs.

Shape, size and length.

I keep the slides lubed with Cable Life spray lube.

A dyno graph on the same motor would be a nice comparison.

If you only replace one part your only fixing 1/2 the problem. I always put red lock tight on splines. It dries and keeps the splines from chewing on each other. Kind of like a glue that you can knock appart with a hammer. Just make sure you let it dry before riding.

They do make one that has a single roller in it. Maybe TM would swap you one.

Or you could run this and still keep the manual 6 speed transmission.

Are we talking Idle speed adjustment or air screw adjustment? I can adjust my idle speed with my fingers. I use a pair of FAST's metal idle speed screws. I don't really like to mess with the idle speed to much because your really should re sync the carbs once you make an adjustment. This guy sells a finger adjustable air screw but it has to be purchased with his carb mod. His carb mod is a divider in the throat of the carb. That way a larger carb acts more like a smaller carb at part throttle. http://www.rb-designs.com/pwk-carb-acc.htm

I run a TM rear guide and swing arm skid plate on a stock length Alba swing arm.

I would leave it bare. How do you think it will look when it gets all the crap back on there and you try to clean it. Bare aluminum looks better dirty than dirty paint.

I don't believe they do. So now your stuck with Trinity for your custom cut stroker domes. You said it best, they build a lot of lemons.

I would go back and use a water resistant butt connector for your coil wire. You crimp them on then shrink them with a lighter. Wire nuts are junk especially in the environment that an atv operates in.

Its just a big practical joke to see who will drive the farthest for nothing.

I usually rev it up then catch neutral as the rpms are coming down. Seems to be much easier than letting it idle.

The other problem is that E85 isn't real constant blend. Some time it could be 75% Ethanol 25% gasoline. The next time it might be 90% ethanol 10% gasoline. The change in % will affect the jetting.

Get a normal length lever instead of a shorty.

Yea better camera with the same # of pixels, and non 1080 hd screen with a fancy name.