jbooker82

Here you go.

That is the only problem I would have with black pipes. They get any kind of muddy water on them then they water spot and dont look clean any more. I painted my engine on my raptor black and it is a pain to keep clean.

The one with the dust boot around the cable is the pro pearch. I have one and it is super nice. It just has the big knob you turn to adjust the cable instead of those small brass scew and lock nut. Type in ASV C5 Pro I didnt see any refurbs. 200 for both the brake and clutch levers. josh

Fast is who I would recomend too. He was the cheapest when I bought my PWK33's josh

I know your not new, It just sounded like you were making your choice between stock chrome pipes, and blacked out cpi's BASED on looks.

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I would say you need to figure out what you plan on doing with your shee before you buy a set of pipes. PT or CPI those are kind of opposites. Kind of like asking what tire to run. Skat Trak Extreems or Flat track tires. Extreems work well in the sand and flat track tires wont do worth a crap. Flat track tires (american racers) are awesome on a dirt oval but the extreems wont be worth a crap. Your now not just deciding on a look but more important, how your banshee behaves and runs. josh

How do the others (noss, and pro design) have potential for compression leaks? They all use the same pro design dome and the same set of O rings. I like the 2 pice pro design head that I am running. You can put an o ring on a dome then set it on top of the cylinder. The weight of the dome keeps the o ring seated. Then you can slide the empty shell on over the studs and domes. Then followed up by the top cover plate. Sure beats trying to keep all the orings in place and put the whole ball of wax on at one time. josh

I say chrome too. It is much easer to keep clean than black painted parts.

Main Jet controls fuel at 3/4 to WOT Needle clip controls fuel at 1/4 to 3/4 Pilot and Air screws control fuel at Idle to 1/4 throttle

Back up to the top :thumbsup:

Deffinatly do the stroker. The longer stroke helps strenghtin the mid range torque. The people that port your cylinders should be able to port them for the four mill. That way you dont run the spacer, just a pair of cut stroker domes.

A cub is not a TRUE trail machine. And Fire roads do not count as trails. Your right a resleeved stock cylinder will not compair to the Top End power a cub has. Just like I said above.

My transfers still have some aluminum left in them. I think it depends on what sleeves you have put in. I can see the big 68mm plus sleevess needing some work Here are some pics of the transfers. The sleeves are just 66mm to 68mm bore.

So what if you wanted to build a big bore stroker built for the trails would you still recomend the cub? The cub is king of the drags but not every one builds a drag engine. Yea you could have built a cub for way cheaper than a big bore stock cylinder 4 mill but if the power is not where you want it why build it. josh

Yea you should just run the standard base gasket with cut domes. I was just saying that most of the time when you see a stroker gasket set on ebay it includes 2 or 4 base gaskets, and the spacer plate. josh

I just run what ever in mine. Those stroker gasket kits you have seen generally come with the 2mm base plate. That is usually what they are talking about with the 4 mill gasket kit. just check the squish before you fire it up. josh

I would do it the other way around. Having the small round hole (intake boot) flow in to a big opean chamber (Reed Spacer) then flow back in to the smaller reed cage is bad for flow. It makes a flat edges sticking out in the air streem and causing turbulance. http://www.passionracingengines.com

The best octane booster is a Gallon of race fuel. It takes 10 points to go up 1 octane number. Most cans of octane booster only raise the points by 5 or so if mixed acording to the MFG's instructions.

Here is the domes that go with the cylinders. The pistons have be coated by Swain Tech. They put a TBC coating on the piston head and and domes, PC9 dry film lubercant coating on the skirts. I did this not for more power but to help increase the life of the motor. Here is what they look like before being installed. www.swaintech.com

RH Side #2

RH Side #1

Left Side #2

Left Piston and Cylinder

You want them all on high. The reeds wont last long on low. josh