jbooker82

You shouldnt have any problems. I have gotten mine up to 220 with my prodesign radiator and engine ice. I was riding with the wind at the same speed, so it was like I wasnt moving at all. I got my pd rad because I some times do slow trail rides. It really helped out. josh

I run one. They come with a cheap plastic clamp that goes around the bars. I would recomend getting trail tech's dashboard/protector. That is what I run. It keeps it very well protected. josh

I run mine any where between 160 and 210. I shut it down if it gets to 220. The reason why you feel a power loss when it gets hot is because the engine is hot. There for it heats up the air it is pulling in. Hoter air requires less fuel. So your banshee richens up. That is why you should jet it for the temp that it normally runs at. josh

Yea you run blaster pistons with the 4mill long rod crank. You will need 4mill big bore blaster piston domes. Noss machine should be able to get you hooked up in the dome department. josh

If you have a pair of cylinders that are ported and your happy with how they run why not resleeve them. It will cost about the same to buy a new pair of cylinders and have them ported again. If they are not ported or you dont like them then I would just start over with a different pair. Why not go big bore if your going to resleeve them. Yea you can gain cc's buy bolting on a 68mm cub but what if you dont want the Drag porting that comes with the added cc's of a Cub? Here is a picture of my transfers. The cylinders have been resleeved with big bore sleeves. 66mm to 68mm. There is still aluminum left in the transfers. So how exactly do Big Bore sleeves choak the transfers?

They make the transmission oil dirty. I run a Barnett carbon fiber clutch. It is ok. I would have went with the fast clutch if I hadnt bought it already. josh

When a banshee doesnt run right and you keep riding it,you will melt the engine down. Especially if your lean.

I would have just gotten one from here. Everything would have been together and worked with no problems. Probably would have saved you a few bucks as well. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=38

I though the 404 was a big bore stock stroke setup any way, not a 4 mill setup.

It will run fine with out a port job. It wont just be running at its full potential. The same can be said for a stock stroke crank. Most people tell you to do a port job over doing just a 4 mill crank with no port job. A ported stock stroke banshee will be faster than a 4 mill non ported banshee. Since you have to buy a crank I would do the 4 mill. A good port job really wakes the banshee up. Once you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank they usually cannont be reported for the 4 mill. The port heighs will be to high, so if your even condsidering doing a 4 mill now is the time to do it, Unless you want to pay for a nother port job later on down the road, and buy a new pair of cylinders. There are lots of good builders to do the port work. When they opean up the ports it changes how the motor behaves. It is like putting a cam shaft in 4 stroke. FAST HJR Wild Card Racing Are a few builders on here. Some more exotic builders are A&S K&T Red Line Racing josh

I dont think he is anti Hindson. He just doesnt want to spend 600 for the Hindson with the Springs. I am sure he would be fine with a Hindson basket with the poly or rubber coushins.

Yes that is true a port job maximizes power. The same is true for a stock stroke crank. Here is how I look at it. You need a new crank. It isnt like your putting off doing a port job to pay for the crank. Your banshee isnt in running condition. If your going to replace it with a new one A stock stroke crank is going to run you $400 A 4 mill long rod crank is going to run $435 plus a spacer plate or cut domes in a cool head.

Loud snap, running on 1 cylinder, broken cases, only one piston going up and down. I am going to guess the rod is broke. You can buy a new hot rods crank for what it would cost you to rebuid your stock crank. Rebuilding them really isnt pratical. If you go with a new crank I would go with a 4 mill stroker. It drops right in and only cost 35 bucks more than a stock crank. $400 for a stock stroke hot rods crank from FAST or $435 for the stroker. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...t=ENGINE%20MODS I would buy a good used crank if your wanting to stay with the stock stroke. It would save you some money too. You will probaly also need a bore, hone, and pistons. That will run you about 300 or so from fast.

It is hard to tell by just using a calipar. You need to know that the cylinder wall is straight and not tapered. You need a dial bore gauge for that. Plus you measured side to side wich will show less wear than front to back. If I had those cylinders and they were the only pair I had I would go a head and have them ported and just plan on running them. It is just hard to sell some thing that is 3/4 worn out vs a pair of stock bore cylinders.

Honestly probably not. I dont know the exact specs on bores but if your at 65.5 mm you only have 1 bore left. Chances are your top end will be out of spec when you send it to a builder to be ported so if you do a bore and port job your on your last leg. It would be good to ride on but there isnt a lot of people triping over each other to buy a set of cylinders that are ported and on there last bore. If you port them I would just plan on running them and not try selling them later on to try to get your money back out of them. Or when they need rebuilt and your happy with them have them Resleeved with your big bore sleeves, then you would have a big bore 4mill. josh

How is that any different than a head gasket? I reuse my O rings. I do have 2 sets that I rotate. josh

I am glad some one is giving free head samples :beer: Bump for a good guy.

You have your cylinders ported for the 4 mill crank and then you dont run a spacer plate. You run domes in a cool head that have been machined for the 4 mill crank.

I ditched 4 trail techs for a pair of 06 head lights. I had the stock location, and the bar mounts. They were bright but I got tired of messing with them. They would get dirt behind the glass lens. I guess the new ones have a rubber gasket to help keep that from happening. I run Piaa H6M bulbs in my 06 head lights. They are a nice bright white color. Suposedy they draw 35w but produce light that a 65w bulb. They were 30 bucks a bulb and were deffinatly worth it for me. There are companys selling knock offs on ebay but I dont know how they compair to the real deal. I run the Piaa's in both my banshee and raptor josh

That doesnt even look like a 06 engine. That looks more like a 87 that has been trashed.

Do a ported 4 mill. Then if you need more speed you can always up grade to a cub.

Wait tell you get a pair of keihins and you have 50 or so different needles to chose from, Start changing lenght, taper and diameter.

You use a longer needle when you need to adjust the clip position leaner but dont have any slots left to adjust. So you install a longer needle and reset the clip position to the middle.

You will have 500 in the cylinders by just resleeving them. Then thow a port job on top of that. Most people dont resleeve due to the cost. Vito's charges 180 per cylinder for the labor alone. josh

You will notice a 4 mill more than doing big bore cylinders. Those 68mm bore cylinders do they start out at 68mm or is that the last bore? I have a pair of 4 mill cylinders that have been resleeved with big bore sleeves. The first bore is 66mm and the last bore is 68mm. I just ran blaster pistons with a 4 mill long rod crank. josh