jbooker82

Every one is going to tell you to use there builder. I would suggest calling them and talking with them see how they treat you. Get some prices. Dont go with the dude that lives in a van down buy the river because some one says he is the best.

Or it is the left overs from the other build. :biggrin:

I would have tanken the banshee engine and put it in the 250r chassis.

Yea I would go up a pilot size and reset the air scews at 1.5 turns out and tune it from there. If your at .5 or under then up the pilot and reset the air scew. If your at 3 or over then drop the pilot and reset the air scew. josh

Grand River Racing

$150 for the bowls and $65 for a tors kit you would be money ahead to get a set of aftermaket carbs, and get a performance gain with the money you have spent.

I am going to take a stab and say they are 34's Here is the dimensions of the PJ carbs. http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pj.php

Here is the last 700 he traded 4. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=100702

I would run CPI's as well. The 4 mill is going to gain you some mid range. The cpi's will allow your engine to rev out better than T5's or other general use pipes. I run them on my FAST 4 mill Dune port. If you want super nice chrome then get them from cascade. They cost a little more from them but they have a way better chrome job. josh

Yea you can just send the parts out. The big one is to have your cylinders ported for the 4 mill. For the cylinder head you really need to run a cool head. That way you can just install it with stroker domes, and not have to have your stock head rechambered. If you want to have the bottom end splitt appart while your cylinders are out getting ported, send the top case half with the cylinders. That way who ever ports the cylinders can port the top case half's transfer areas to match the cylinders transfer areas. It isnt a must do but it does help out. josh

#1. Hose goes from the fitting by the radiator cap needs to go to the bottom of the coolant jug. #2. You can just leave the top hose off the coolant res or just make a little turn down hose. It is just a vent. #3. A bigger diameter hose runs from the top back of the cylinder head to a hose barb on the top RH side of the radiator #4. The small hoses with a T. One end connects to the back of the engine. The other end connects to the vent barb under the water pump cover, the thrid end just goes up over the top of the cylinder head, and through that little square hoop that the throttle cabe, and clutch cable goes through. It just dangles down. It is a transmission vent. josh

The leaking usually happens inbetween the aluminum intake and the rubber flang that is bolted on to the intake.

I ran CEK's in my PJ34's DEK is also a popular needle in the PJ's

Yea I sealed mine up with yamabond as well. If you look at the carb flange there is a raised o ring built in to the flange.

I ran PJ34's with Upp racing's intake boots so it would be the same lenght as stock. I had to grind down the plug on the bottom of the LH carb cause it was hitting on the clutch lever. I also had to cut the air box down where the rubber couplers connect the air box to the carb. I had some bigger couplers to fit the PJ carbs. I couldnt ever get the air box to snap back on those posts sticking of the frame. I also couldnt get the air box enough forward to use the rear bolts. It was a pain wedging that air box in there every time to jet the carbs. I just ditched the box for a set of PODs and never looked back. If you ride in enough mud and water that you need to keep the air box then you probably dont need larger carbs because it is too sloppy to get enought traction.

I run 6 OEM springs with mine.

My boss intake just has Mikuni carb flanges on it. Look on the outside lip where the carb goes in. There should be a part number. josh

.100 over is the last bore.

5 and 6 should be done at the same time and they will gain you more power than the timing plate and cool head put together. josh

Yep. The stock plug You run B8ES or BR8ES for running gasoline (pump and race fuel) B9ES or BR9ES for running methanol That is about the only time you switch plugs. josh

I ment a Nology coil with hot wires is the only way to go. I would also consider running a Dyna coil. josh

A nother 300 will get you the complete kit for the front end. A arms and shocks.

I would say that big pile of crap bolted on behind the front sprocket is an Amp Link. I would get rid of it. Looks like your going to need the Upper and Lower chain rollers (replace the amp link), and a rear swing arm chain roller. I would also replace the front chain slider that goes over the swing arm. This should be everything you need. It is a little more pricy but all the parts are well made. The rear guid has rollers in it instead of being a one pice hard plastic slider. http://www.tmdesignworks.com/xcart/custome...=305&page=1

Here is the timing plates on ebay. I would spend a little more and get the cheaper billit one instead of the 35 dollar cast plate. Make sure you lock tight the bolts. And set the pickup coil gap. Check the gap with both nodes. http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_dmptZMoto...e&_osacat=0 You will aslo need a banshee flywheel puller. http://shop.ebay.com/items/_W0QQ_dmptZMoto...e&_osacat=0

A noss machine head is what I would go with. You dont have to change the cylinder head studs with his. You can get it in 3 anodized colors. Banshee HQ members get 10% off. Acording to noss's web page 21cc domes at sea level will put you at 156psi. It looks like his anodized heads are out of stock. You can get a Noss machine head from FAST that has the FAST logo engraved on it. Same with Herr Jugs, Wild Card Racing. www.farmandsandtoys.com http://www.herrjugsracing.com/ slobanshee06 is who you need to contact for a Wild Card Racing Head. Just PM him.