jbooker82

I think any one who has a reputation of scewing some one over should have there Name, Address, phone number, paypal email address, ebay user ID, and other screen names, posted in a a sticky. You can change screen names, but it is a lot more head ache to chang the other stuff. josh

Plus aluminum and steel heat and cool down (expand and contract) at different speeds. So the heating and cooling process can help brake the coroson loose that causes steel to and aluminum to siez.

yea I would look at the reeds too.

Yes it can. My other ride is a Raptor 660 with a 4 mill crank (720cc's), ported head, and stage 1 hot cam (for low end).

I would imagine you would bake out in the dunes in june.

I would prefer a xxxl the way shirts are being made. Seems like there are no tall bigger guys. They must figure a guy that wears an xxl is 5'5"

Here is a link to my cylinders. www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=110068 To get 421cc's you need a 68mm bore and a 4mill crank. josh

If you port your cylinders for a stock stroke crank, they probably wont be able to be reported for the 4mill.

I would go for some FMF Fatties or SST's. If you are required to run a spark arrestor where you ride then you will need FMF TurbineCore II's.

A port job will gain you more power than installing big bore sleeves. You cant press out the sleeves because the cylinders are cast around the sleeves. Theyjust bore the old sleeve out. Most of the time when you run big bore sleeves you run blaster pistons. In order to run blaster pistons you have to run a long rod crank, ethire stock stroke, or 4mill. You might be able to find some big bore pistons for a stock crank. Big Bore sleeves are not real cost effective vs the hp gained. A 4mill stock ported cylinder will be faster than a big bore ported stock stroke engine. I would build a ported 4mill. Then when the cylinders are on there last bore look at having them resleeved. The resleve job will cost about the same as buying different cylinders, and having them ported. So if your happy with the port job why not keep it and gain some cc's. For all the nay sayers look at the pics of my 4mill big bore drag ported cylinders in the for sale forum. The #1 arguement against big bore sleeve is they choak the transfers. Mine still have aluminum in them so how is it any smaller than stock sleeves? josh

No I never ran it on a dyno or at a track. I built the wrong engine for the area I ride. They scream on the top end, but I do ride trails. Drag Port and trails is not an Ideal combo.

I would spend money on a 4mill crank before I would buy a lockup and override.

:thumbsup:

Or go to the local drag strip or race track. There is usually some one selling barles of fuel in the pits.

I would emagine that they get way more Not Serious emails than phone calls. If I ran a business I probably wouldnt even have an email posted. I bet the ratio of dream emails to seriouse customers is quite high.

My cascade cpi's still look like this today. Absolutly no blue has ever occured. I did spray some white 1200 deg paint down the throats of the pipes. I dont know how much it accutally helped.

I would say the major expence of the FF kit is the Elka's not there a arms. I would steer clear.

I would stay away from ASR or FF. They use hiem joints that are opean. Dirt gets in them then they start squeeking and poping. I had a set of ASR's on my raptor and they started to develop a little play just after a couple of rides. What kind of suspension are you wanting to do. If your not in to all out racing I would get some a arms that do not have an adjustment for Caster (tilting the spindel forward or back). If you dont set the caster up right it will steer funny. I will really easy to turn a litte ways from straight, and hard to turn when cramped all the way. Most a arms with a caster adjustment will have Hiem joints where the a arm conects to the frame. You screw one joint in or out and it moves the out side of the a arm forward or back. All a arms are going to have the camber setting (tilting of the tire in or out at the top). I run a pair of HD USA I Shock 3500 a arms on my raptor. They are non adjustable for the caster. You can adjust the camber with out having to pop the ball joint out of the spindel wich is nice. They came with brake lines, billit brake line clamps too. They do have other kits that come with shocks, I dont know how they are. I just have a pair of works tripple rate's with the HD UDA a arms on my raptor. I have Avenger A arms with works dual rates on my banshee. They ride pretty good too. They are setup the same as my HD USA's. Only camber adjustable.

There is a VP distribuiter in Terre Haute, Indiana Phone: 812-466-1175 Fax: 812-466-1675 E-Mail: vpmidwest@vpracingfuels.com You wont get any better race fuel than VP. But is is more expensive. They have about any kind of blend you could ever need. http://www.vpracingfuels.com/World_Map.asp#

Here you go. just did a quck search. http://www.yellowpages.com/info-14398715/A...rom=qpibp-nonmi Passion Race Engines is in Tulsa OK. Call him up, he is a banshee builder. I am sure he could give you some places. http://www.passionracingengines.com/

If you want super nice show quality chrome on CPI's or Shearer's the only place to get them from is www.cascadeinnovations.net . They get them bare from the mfg and have the chrome work done to there standards, wich is quite a bit higher than cpi or shearers. There is a reason why they cost more. If you want looks they are the only way to go. josh

A 4 mill cranck will drop right in the cases. A 10 mill will requrie the cases to be trenched so the conecting rod doesnt rub.

I too would run PWK33's Get a boss racing intake so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. josh

A new one is like 30 bucks

Good luck on finding a good aftermarket shock for under 500 since most start out at 1500 new.