jbooker82

Make sure you dont have an air leak. I would say your rich on the top end if it runs hard for the first 15 minutes. The engine starts heating the air up that is being pulled in through the engine. Hot air is less dense to it needs less fuel. I would start backing down one jet size at a time. Until you find one that pulls hard when warm at wide opean throttle. Pipes are supose to be hot. josh

Wich style is it. There is the standard c5 wich uses a scew in adjuster with a lock nut (like the stock setup) or there is the ASV C5 pro perch that just has a big + shaped knob. If it is the pro then dont mess with the little allen head set scews. All they do is hold in a ball and spring that makes the detent click. josh

Mine does that when it is cold. It is fine when it is warmed up. I have a new basket and hub. It is just cause the clutch pack is dry. Once it is running and warmed up it is good to go. josh

I thought a Hot Rods crank only comes welded on there 4mill :geek:

If it is mx ported I would probably run some t5's or DMC's, If it was a dune port then I would run CPI's drag port Shearer's would be your best bet.

If it didnt bind up you could have slapped it together and you would be doing the top end again. I would say your lucky instead of being unlucky josh

That is what I did. I bought a pair of Patriot Racing 4mill drag ported cylinders. They were on there last bore and one had a cracked sleeve. I sent them back to patriot racing to be resleeved. It cost me about the same amount as buying a stock bore pair and haveing them ported and new bore and pistons. I had big bore sleeves installed. The were not the huges ones. First bore was 66mm and last bore was 68mm. I just ran standard blaster pistons with the 4 mill long rod crank. You have to bore the old sleeve out. Yamaha cast the cylinder around the sleeve instead of casting the cylinder and pressing in the sleeve. I belive they just heat the cylinder up in the oven and freeze the sleeve. They also put some sleeve retaining compound to help glue it in. Make sure you deck the bottom of the cylinder while you have the old sleeve out. That way you have a nice ture sufrace to start out with. josh

Sold to Heb Thanks agian josh

I had dan at patriot racing resleeve a pair of cylinders that he originally ported. My total bill was $700 But that included everything. Big Bore Sleeves, Labor, Bore and hone, 66mm Blaster Pistons, Wrist pin bearings, Custom Cut Race fuel big bore stroker domes, O ring kit, and gaskets. For just the price of the sleeves, and the labor wasnt to bad.

Old Skool BHQ member checking in :thumbsup: I ended up sending it to dave more to be lightend. I ran it for a while but then traded it to a member on here. I just didnt like how it felt launching. I weigh 250 and really missed having that extra weight. josh

Your just looking to bore the cylinders out? It isnt worth punching them clear out to try to gain HP. Then when it come top end time you wont have any bores left. By the way a big bore is when you have the cylinders resleeved. Stock bores are 64mm to 66.5mm. I had a pair of cylinders resleeved with 66mm to 68mm. The #1 reason why I had them resleeved was they were on there last bore and one cylinder had a crack in the sleeve. Get a port job that will gain you some serious hp compaired to a stock ported cylinders. josh

Use a rubber mallit and do glancing blows. Rotate the silencer to rock the tip back and fourth as you strike it.

The Sand Star fronts work awesome. They have 2 ribs down the middle that point slightly out. That way they dont role under and not work as good. They steer very well.

Didnt Brandon (Wild Card Racing) aka slobanshee06 have a problem with detonation on a customers bike and he couldn't figure out what it was. Same type of deal only he donated a top end or two. It turnd out to be a faulty fuel cap. If you have a stock cap you might try gutting it. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=101648&hl= josh

For just normal riding I would have went with a 20 in tall tire. I run 20x10x10 9 paddle extreems on my banshee.

You can make your own 10 dollar bosch plug. Just side gap the spark plug. You cut the electrode off so the end of it is right on the edge of the center electrode. It is an old hot rodders secreate. josh

Your compairing two different style plug tips. BP8ES is a projected tip and the BR8ES is a standard tip. The projected tip hangs down a little in to the combustion chamber. I would say that would be the differance your feeling, not the fact that one is a resistor and the other is not. I belive that the earlier banshees that say to use the non resistor B8ES have the resistor built in to the spark plug cap. BP8ES BR8ES and B8ES

A new inner hub is 30 bucks or so. What is shot on the basket? The brass bushing that rides on the transmission shaft, or the coushins (play between the gear and basket). If they are the coushins then get a billit basket.

What problems are you having?

It is usually cheaper to buy a new crank than to have one rebuilt. Would you really replace the inner bearings, and do nothing to the rods or rod bearings?

I would say it is lean too. I dont thing warming up 12 deg is going to make it right on ethier. Maybe if you normally ride in the upper 90's it might be close. josh

Is Inland ATV and Boss Racing the same company?

It is nothing new. I think they might be getting better. There use to be one of these threads pop up once a week. CPI and Shearer both have sketchy chrome. Some times it is ok and other have have massive peeling problems. That is why I tell peopel until I am blue in the face if the chrome job matters to you then get them from cascade. They have the chrome done to their standard which is quite a bit higher than CPI's or Shearers. My CPI's from cascade look like this today. There is absolutly no sign of blueing around the flanges ethier.

I just do mine with the crossover opean.

If you look around here you can find Shaved heads for sale. When you up grage to a K&N make sure you get the kit that uses the billit adaptor plate that you bolt in to the air box. It seals up much better. It also allows you to take the lid off and run with no lid at all. Noss machine sells a kit that uses the billit flange. Tell him your a BHQ member and you get 10% off. http://www.nossmachine.com/yamaha_banshee_parts.htm