jbooker82

421cc's is about the biggest bolt on / no machining required size. It requires a 4 mill stroker crank, and a 68mm bore cub cylinder. It is about 90 hp out of the box.

Are you talking about this post I made? http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=96873 I ended up going with Dave Moore. He just machines the ouside. I ended up trading it for a stock flywheel. I weigh 250 and didnt like how the lighter flywheel launched.

who did your flywheel?

I would skip them both and go for a set of PWK 33's. I ran a set of PJ34's on some no name MX port job. It ran great.

I run a pair of trinity spark arrestors on my CPI's. All I had to do was drill out the center hole for the core. Trinity uses a 1" core and CPI uses a 1 1/8" core. Trinity must use the same size diameter pipe for the silencer body because they went right in.

Jeff at FAST sells the Cascade Adjuster http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.as...CH/TRANSMISSION

No it is not a wast of money. When you get one make sure it is a cascade one. Other types you have to do a dry assembley then adjust the clutch, then take it back appart so you can hold the adjuster to lock down the adjustment. Cascades has 2 flat spots that you can hold the adjuster with a wrench. josh

It says that the conector only works with the standard 7mm wire. I bet those NGK racing wires would work pretty well. I never thought about needing a resistor. I bet the MSD coil wire doesnt have one. You could also run a resistor plug though.

Here you go. http://www.parkeryamaha.com/ngksparkplugwiresplice.aspx

I dont know about the stock coil. I though the wires were molded in and were non changable. I run a nology coil and could just use those wires as is. The wires just snap on to the coil like they do for the spark plugs. I think they might make some kind of splice that would allow you to change the wires. It kind of reminds me of the end of a coaxal tv cable. It threads on over the cut plug wire, and it has a hard steel point in the middle that goes in to the core of the plug wire. You just scew it on the stub wire left hanging out of the coil then thread the new wire in to the other end. josh

I think I got them for 34 bucks each. I didnt want the knock off blue bulbs that you can find on ebay. I wanted the real deal PIAA. I think I got mine through bike bandit if I remember correctly. I run them in my banshee and raptor. They make a nice white light instead of a yellow light.

That is the problem. Your not getting anywhere near an accurate reading. How is coolant going to circulate to the dead end of a T to heat the thermometer. The most accurate place (besides acctually drilling and taping a sensor directly in to the head) to measuer the engine temp is right at the out let of the head. My banshee runs any where from 160-210. I have hit 230 slow riding at the dunes going with the wind. I just turned around and hauled butt in to the wind and it came right down. josh

Playing with the intake ports wont get you much. The transfer and exhaust ports is where the power is at.

I must be one of the lucky ones. I dont have a problem shifting with my direct drive. I too have the barnett clutch.

The RS flywheels do help out making the lights brighter. I ran one for a while. I had one come appart. It didnt totaly destroy stuff. One rivit sheared and it stuck to the flywheel and took out the pickup coil. I use to run 4 trail tech lights with a 200 watt stator. Had the 2 stock location, and 2 on the handle bars. It worked good. I got tired of dicking with high out put stators and didnt really ride a lot at night. I went back to an OEM stator and flywheel, running 2006 head lights with PIAA H6M Bulbs.

How do you swap wires on a stock coil? Any wire would work. I would go for some MSD super conductor wire if it was me. They have a 18 in super conductor 8.5mm coil wire for 12 bucks. Just cut the one end off and your sparkplug boot is ready to go on the other end. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.a...mp;autoview=sku

What kind of flat slide? Mikuni TM carb? Keihin PJ carb?

Call fast. they were the best price when I got my 33's

That is the most retarded statement I have herd. Castor oil burns dirty. The same type of oil that is in your Castor 927. Did you ever stop to think that maybe Klotz has different types of oil and not just 1.

What I am saying is that the coolant doesnt really circulate around the cylinders. The coolant flows right cross the top of the cylinder head. THere is nothing that forces the coolant to do down in to the cylinders water jackets.

Coolant doesnt really circulate through the jugs any way. It just flows across the top of the head. As the coolant heats up it does cause it to circulate some. A cool head with deverters can cause the coolant to flow down in to they cylinders a little. josh

I would rather have the T. There is already enough stuff going up to the handle bars. No need for a second brake line.

Yea the PWK 33 and 35 have the same size carb bodies. My filters when right on when I went from 34pj's to 33 pwk's.

Here is a pair of ASR A arms for 399 bran new no exchange required. Plus they have ball joints instead of those crappy hiem joints. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ASR-Banshee...sQ5fAccessories

There is a PWK 33. I would go that route. Small engough that you can run them on a ported stock stroke engine, and they are big enough to feed a ported 4 mill stroker. Call jeff at fast. He had the best price on the carbs when I bought mine through him. www.farmandsandtoys.com is his web site. He is a member on here too. josh