jbooker82

I raced a guy with a Outlander 800 (renigade is a stripped down outlander) with my 720 4 mill raptor. We were in soft sand. He had his in 4x4 with no paddles. I just had sand stars. I got him off the start and was acouple lengths in front of him. He wasnt gaining on me but I wasnt loosing him etheir.

I would say your low end bog is from to big of a pilot jet. Most guys run in the neighborhood of a 45-48 pilot. The plug chop looks lean. It has a bog on the top end with the richer 165's in? How long of a WOT run did you do for this plug chop?

I dont think I would trust some ones dome design if they didnt even know how to machine a stroker dome. Let alone getting the sqish angle right. I would say they could have ruined the whole head. It looks like they shaved the whole works. How else would they anodized the o ring grooves but not the bottom of the head. At first I thought you ment they didnt have the outer lip that makes a channel for the domes O ring to set in. Like big bore domes.

A welder, and Lots of Time and $$$

The dump tube is the part of the carburetor body that the slide needle goes through on its way down to the main jet. Be carefull on Keihins once you drill it you cant replace it. That is why you cannot convert keihin carbs from alachol back to gas. josh

The cub is a drag motor right out of the box and it wouldnt be very fun trail riding with. If you can get a pair of cylinders already sleeved for a great price then they are not bad. There isnt really anything wrong with running the bb sleeves. They are just expensive to have the sleeves installed. That is why most guys shy away from them. Some of the bigger big bore sleeves can choak the transfer ports. I had a pair of 66mm to 68mm big bore sleeves and the transfer port was the same as with the stock sleeves. There was still aluminum left in the ports. josh

You could have an air leak or the jetting is lean. Both can cause you to melt a spark plug. I would be checking the compression to see if you have a hole in the piston.

Yea your right. I had a pair of cylinders resleeved. I ended up at 500 bucks for the sleeves and labor to install them and have the porting rematched. If I had to pay for a port job then it would have been in the price range of a cub. But the cub's power delivery isnt for every one ethire. The only real way to make resleeving stock cylinders worth it is to get a pair that have already been ported for dirt cheap, under 100 bucks that are junk. Or if your cylinders are on there last bore and are ported. The resleeve job is around the same price range as buying a new "used" pair and paying for another port job. So if your happy with the port job then why not resleeve them. Another thing you need to watch out for is dont get the huge sleeves. Mine started out at 66mm and last bore was 68mm. If you get the huge 72mm sleeves then you could possibly start choaking the transfers. My 66mm's didnt choak the transfers. there was still aluminum in them after the resleeve job.

Thanks man. I ride at the halsey national forest in the middle of nebraska. They require a spark arrestor. I get along pretty well with the rangers. It is a head ache messing with them though. I have a 1 gallon can of gunk carb dip. I just throw the screens in there when I am not using them. One was almost completly plugged up. I did repack the silencers so I think a few strans of glass were sicking through the core. Now that they have a little time on them they dont get near as plugged. josh

I think they are older. I believe I have herd people say they are pretty much the same thing as a the Fatty.

I would say you need to save your money and build your motor when you have enough saved up. If you dont have the money now how are you going to rebuild it when it goes BOOM. By the time you buy the silonoids, foggers, bottle, fuel pump, battery, and paid for the refills to get it dialed in. You could have had your 4 mill build done.

Gasoline is not made up of one molecule so there is no need for molecular reconstruction. It is a blend of different chemicals. You need a higher octane fuel so they add more of the chemicals that raise the octane. So how is mixing 2 different gasoline blends not going to raise the octane?

Snoop use to run a 2:1 exhaust. He said it sounds awsome but sucks dick at everything else. Maybe he will chime in and you can here it from the horses mouth.

Your carbs will run that engine just fine. If you are wanting to spend some money and upgrade to a better carb then I would go with a pair of Keihin PWK 33's. Get a boss racing intake. It lifts the carbs up and back a little so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. It also gets rid of the crossover tube / boost bottle wich ever you have. Another good investment would be to ditch the FMF's for a set of CPI's. The are a top end pipe and would go great with the dune port. If you were running a drag port then I would have said PWK35's and Shearer pipes. josh

It is bad. Read the bottle. When it says that it boost ocatne 7-10 points it sounds like it does a great job. What they dont tell you is that 10 points = 1 octan number. So you would jump up from say 90 to 91 octane. How much does a bottle of that stuff cost? You could buy buy 1 gallon of 110 race fuel and mix it with 3 gallons of 91 octane and end up with 4 gallons of 96 octane fuel. Race fuel is way more effective at raising the octane. It is also better on the enine instead of running a chemical soup of aditives. josh

I put a set on my silencers. The place where they slip in to the silencer body is the same size diameter. The hole in the center for the core isnt. The factory trinity spark arrestors start out at 1" hole then step down to 7/8" The step down to keep the perforated core from sliding out. I drilled mine out to 1 1/8" half way through. Then ran a 1" drill bit clear though.(double check these mesurements before you drill) I wouldnt a tempt to do it with out a drill press. The walls get kind of thin because the back side has been machined out. I shortend up my cpi silecers about 1.5-1.6 inches for 2 reasons. #1 I didnt want the long tips hangin out the back. #2 The cpi's 3 holes that hold the tips on are about 30 deg off so the tips would be cockeyed. The trinity spark arrestors dont have any stamping or certification number saying that it is USFS approved. I dont know if that is a big deal where you ride but it works fine for me. I think the big part is they dont want jerryrigged screans bing used as a spark arrestor.

I guess I dont see the extra expence of building a 4 mill over a stock stroke other than the domes and the cost of the crank. Everything that people claim that you are going to have to upgrade for a 4 mill hold true for a stock stroke machine too. josh

Then I would get a Primary Drive rear sprocket. The rear isnt near as important as the front. The front sprocket takes the abuse. You need to replace the chain and sprockets as a set, or the bad componets will wear the new ones out. Stick with a steel rear an aluminum one will wear out fast on an atv. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=2192

Dont get a cheap 5-10 dollar front sprocket ethier. Get one of these. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...dFamilyId=23006

RK GB520EXW chain. Gold plated, it is rated at 8500. It has better sealing o rings than the the x ring chains. http://www.rockymountainatv.com/productDet...odFamilyId=3591

Does the engine oil lube the transmission, clutch on the yfz? If so then you shouldnt see any oil in the window. The excess engine oil is pumped and stored in the oil tank.

You will notice the flywheel. The lockup wont offset the flywheel on a launch because when your in gear with the clutch pulled in the lockup isnt spinning.

I just reply with a big FU might as well over whelm there pm box, and email address with notifications of new pm's

I would say you did ok. Front shocks look like works tripple rates. What shop did you have dyno your banshee? josh