jbooker82

Or get some 18 cc dome and run it straight. It won't hurt running the fuel. If your going to spend the cash on the fuel why not get smaller domes and get a nice midrange boost.

No it is installed on the other side of the head (front). Coolant is pumped from the bottom of the radiator, through the pump, up the hose inbetween the intakes, through the head, and then to the top of the radiator. It is just one of those billit aluminum adaptors that has an electric probe installed. I use a trail tech vapor. josh

Since the oil you put in the fuel lubercates the engine. No fuel no lubercation.

Yea that is what I shoot for on my banshee. Mine runs in the 160 range in the winter. and 190-210 in the hot summer. It just depends on how I am riding. Poking along in the trails with 4 strokes cause it to warm up a little. I shut it down around 220-225. My temps are measured right at the head outlet with a digital trail tech vapor.

Check out snoop's dyno posts. Maybe he will post a link. He use to be a Die Hard 2:1 intake advocate. I believe he aslo had a pair of cylinders specifically ported by the MFG of his 2:1 exahust. I cant remember if it was motofast or dynoport. Anyway long story short he got to playing around with a pair of PWK 28's or Mikuni TM 28's and a pair of Pro Circuit pipes. He doesnt preach the 2:1 intake and the 2:1 exhaust pipe is long gone. I belive he found that the midrange was marginaly better with the 2:1 vs 28mm dual, and the top end was signifitly hampered by the 2:1.

I would say that it should have been asked before he bought the crank. Shocks and a arms or stroker crank and port job? Already started down the path of engine modds, I would keep walking and continue on with a port job. I like the post where guys claim you HAVE to get larger carbs, extended swinger or don't do the port job. Warning: this statement was developed using the same method as "stroker crank requires larger carbs and extended swing arm" Well guess what if you get a arms then you HAVE to get quad rate remote ressi elka shocks. Since you done the front you also also have to get a rear elka shock with long travel linkage.

Let us know how beating 4 strokes goes with a singel pwk33

I would say the guy that did your port work was not reputable in my book. Come on stockers over pwks? Who knows maybe you just got a crappy port job. Clean the intake bride up, drill a couple of worm holes with the Dewalt. The bogg is probably due to jetting, but you seem dissapointed with the port job. Pwk's are 100x better carbs than stockers. If you want to lean it out in the 1/4 throttle range try a needle that has a larger diameter.

I was always told a lectron carb isn't good for anything but wot drag racing. PWK' don't come in a 36 they come in 28, 33, 35, 35 airstriker, and I can't remember the larger sizes. PJ's come in 34, and 36's

Yea like dajo said 15cc domes are made for the people in the 6000 ft elevation category. Not for ultimate performance at or near sea level.

Here is what I would do. #1. Make sure the shut off valve works and doent let any fuel flow when off. #2. While your strapping it down on the trailer turn the fuel off and let the engine run until it starts having a high idle. Give it a quick rev to clear it out and shut it down. #3. When you get ready to fire it up after trailering turn the fuel on. Stand on the pegs and shake it side to side. It might help work some of the air out of the carbs.

I have never seen them. Let me guess u drink coors instead of bud light. I have seen more blue stock piped banshee's running those graphics.

My Cascade CPI's look as good as the day I got them. There is absolutly no blueing around the necks of the pipes and no rust along the seems. There is a reason why cascades cpi's and shearers cost more then the chrome ones directly from the mfg.

I like chrome because it is a more durable finish. Black pipes look sweet but as soon as you ride through some muddy water with hot exhaust the exhaust never looks the same.

I think these are brobably just a way to keep CPI from going broke. Instead of throwing out all the rejected chrome pipes that there customers have sent back, they powder coat them and resell them to recoup some $$$. If you want real chrome you get CPI's from cascade.

Waste your money on a Hot Rod's 4 mill Long rod crank instead. It is well worth it as long as you get it ported to match the extra stroke. josh

Well you cant have both the Top end of a R1 and the low end of a tractor. If you after all out top end then CPI or Shearer pipes are the way to go. You will have to run clamp on sparkies with ethire of these pipes. I wouldnt get ethire of these pipes if your not going to be getting a port job. A good all around pipe would be the FMF SST's with Turbine core 2's

I ground my peg too. That way it would have a little room. I also bent my brake lever out a little as well. I think the cover fit with no mods but as much as my banshee engine vibrates I gave it a little extra room.

I wouldnt run one of those. The unmodded stock cap vents better than those. I have herd of them getting gumed up from the oil in the fuel and sticking closed, causing motors to melt down. I just run a drilled cap with a long pice of tygon fuel tube that runs clear down to the bottom frame rail.

you have a couple different options. I would probably go with fmf fatties or sst's with turbine core 2's. If you need it quiet fmf makes a quiet turbine core 2 silencer. I am not for sure if pro circuit makes a spark arrested silencer or not. If they do then they would also be a good choice. You can get clamp on sparkies for about any pipe. They are not worth the headache unless your going to be running a drag pipe. Cleaning out screens sucks. Fmf uses a different style of spark arrestor. It is a much better design and doesn't require cleaning near as much as the clamp on sparkies.

I just ran 66mm to 68mm blaster pistons in mine. All you need to run blaster piston is a long rod crank (std. Or 4 mill) and a pair of big bore blaster piston domes. Josh

I have an electro sport stator in my raptor. I havent had any problems.

I dont know where He got them at. I just sent the cylinders to him. He ordered the sleeves and did all the work. You can try getting a hold of him to see where he got them at. I would imagine they are a Nortwest sleeve or LA Sleeve. They wernt the big sleeves that go clear out to the cylinder head studs. Here Dan's web page. He can be hard to get a hold of but give him some time. http://www.patriotracing.net

Most built banshee's dont turn over 10,000 rpm unless they are over reved. I was told buy Dan at Patriot Racing my Patriot Drag ported 4 mill stock cylinder falls off the pipe at around 9,200-9,400 rpm If I was drag racing I would be looking for a dual range tach. That way you can really see from 6-11k rpm http://www.autometer.com/cat_gaugedetail.a...ch&gid=3084

Get you a dyna digital FS programable cdi. They have a tach output. You can use any standard 4 cylinder automotive tach with it.